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brake set up


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#1 _uglybob_

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 07:23 PM

hey guys ive decided im doin a shortend borwarner for my lc but i was just wondering what any one has done for the brakes side. obvioulsy it would be good to go for the discs on the bak and do away with the drums but what do u do for a master cylinder then??

also just another question about master cylinders, i was at barbagallo on the wkend watching the little torris kick bum and saw that they hav two master cylinders and no booster, is that because the cams are so big they dont have enough vaccum to run a booster??

#2 dattoman

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 08:14 PM

Thats part of the reason
And also so they can adjust the pressure for front and rear to get the right balance in braking

Disc on the back would be good........ munro has a set for sale off a UC

#3 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 08:18 PM

dattoman would be able to expalin better, but to my knowledge, the twin M/C setup is a race item. I think it's more to do with being able to adjust front/rear braking.

If you want 4 wheel discs, stick to Commodore rear discs and calipers. The front does most of the braking, so there's no point having rear brakes that work better than the fronts. If you get new axles, you can get them drilled to Torana pattern. Otherwise you'll have different rims front and back. Use a 1" M/C with the residual line pressure valve/s removed. Those valves are only required for drum brakes.

#4 _[2_FLY]_

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 08:19 PM

I used VR commodore discs on the rear of mine just had to line up the flexible line with the rigid lines on the diff housing.

#5 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 15 May 2006 - 08:36 PM

VB - VS rear discs/calipers are identical, apart from HSV and IRS.

#6 _uglybob_

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 05:56 PM

ok then cheers guys. ill keep the standard xu1 dics on the front and just use standard vp rear brakes that come with the diff. and then all i hav to do is pul out the valve for the rear brakes. too easy.
thanks
ben

#7 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 16 May 2006 - 07:47 PM

Just don't try to rotate the tyres after the conversion.

#8 _uglybob_

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 06:41 PM

why not rotate the tyres?

#9 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 09:00 PM

Judging by what you posted, you are going to have Torana pattern at the front and Commodore pattern at the rear.

#10 dattoman

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Posted 17 May 2006 - 11:26 PM

You may or may not need a proportioning valve of some sort to reduce rear pressure to the discs and stop lockup
But you won't know this for sure till the car is driven and tested under hard braking...... wet and dry

#11 _LHoon_

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Posted 18 May 2006 - 10:47 AM

I have a Borg Warner diff in my LC. Skyline discs on the back, and HQ discs on the front, standard LJ booster and master cylinder. Works fine as is. Although i might upgrade to a 1" master cylinder one day to see if it makes the pedal feel even better.

My advice: Leave the discs on the BW diff, and upgrade the front brakes to HQ or even VT.

#12 dattoman

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Posted 19 May 2006 - 12:41 AM

Hoon you already have a 1" master cylinder
All Toranas did unless they were 4 cyl LC/LJ or late UC
Everything 6 cyl LC/J, all LH/X and early UC were 1"

#13 _uglybob_

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Posted 19 May 2006 - 06:30 PM

well i was planing on leaving my xu1 style discs on the front and use the bw discs but cange the stud pattern to the lc style. did u do away with the proportioning valve hoon? you need that for the braking difference so that the front will lock up before the back dont u?or does that happen in the master cylinder??

#14 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 19 May 2006 - 10:32 PM

If you want to buy new discs ( c. $60 each ) and axles ( c. $260 each ) you can change the BW to Torana pattern.

#15 _uglybob_

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 01:56 PM

cheers chop just what i was after. thankx guys for the feed bak.
ben




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