Brad's Ramsay Lynx
#1 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 04 May 2011 - 12:45 AM
Had an absolute blast with the boat over the summer, so far we've taken it to Hazelwood, Nagambie, Eppalock and Lake Charm. Goes really well for what it is, currently it runs a standard 186 with a 350 holley. Here's a pic from charm
On the second last day we noticed the clutch was getting more and more difficult to engage until upon giving it a hiding it just stopped driving the prop. Upon pulling it out of the water a local punter was telling me that it may have sheared the keyway off the crank, so I was thinking either that or the corresponding keyway on the clutch gear is stuffed. Pulled off the cover on the dog clutch and here is what it looks like
Started to inspect further the other day by disconnecting the drive shaft etc.
There are some screws here that, when undone may allow me access to remove the driven shaft inside, but they're pretty stuffed and may require drilling out etc, something best done with the motor out.
Then I had a look and really 4 bolts and a few hoses and it should come out pretty easily and allot me better access to the clutch area, and diagnose and fix the problem its having, since pulling the timing cover off would be easiest and the timing cover forms part of the engine mount.
Instead of putting the 186 back in (it goes fine but you can tell its had a lifetime of flogging and has reached the time in its life where it would rather be a coffee table) , I've got my 202 that spent a brief period in Briana's LJ and was previously in my UC for a few years which I plan to freshen up, new seals and bearings and rings. As much as I love the cam in it, it would be useless in a boat like this, so Ill be replacing the cam with something a bit better suiting, something that will pull from low revs. still will retain the kidney chambered yella terra head with hardened rods and roller rockers, planning to fit a set of straight cut timing gears in which I reckon would sound wicked on the water since there will be plenty of punting around at full noise and a hilborn scoop on top for the period style cool factor .
But yea that's the winter project that should keep me busy, can't wait to get cracking!
#2 _stooy_
Posted 06 May 2011 - 01:52 PM
It will hammer with the 202!
Remember when you select your cam not to go too small either, when you boot the boat at low revs the prop will slip and rpm climb to somewhere between 1200 and 1800 giving somewhat of a stall converter effect.
Next summer is going to be awesome!
#3 _doogs_
Posted 06 May 2011 - 04:52 PM
Give us a yell if you want a hand, keen to help out.
#4 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 09 May 2011 - 12:01 AM
Stewart I'm going to go to see Clive in the coming weeks and see what he thinks, might get a suggested cam profile or two and compare. I'm assuming I would have felt that stall converter like effect with the current setup? I think if I had it pointed out to me I would have noticed it more.
#5 _stooy_
Posted 10 May 2011 - 12:54 PM
Yeah you would have, it's just as you boot it for a take off the prop slips as the boat takes off, our boat stalls at 1800 so obviosly if we had a cam which was good from 1500 ish we would be fine. (I think our cam is good from 600 lol).
Cheers
Stewart
#6 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 10 May 2011 - 06:19 PM
Here is where it's at now.
{Need to pull the balancer off next and then can pull the crank out and cam and measure it up)
Pulling out the pistons we noticed 3 and 5 had a broken compression ring each! I remember a couple of them having slightly lower compression than the rest but yea that would have probably been it.
**edit: Haha just realised this photo makes it look like my torrie has a full on mafia tint on it!
Edited by Brad1979UC, 10 May 2011 - 06:23 PM.
#7 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 10 May 2011 - 06:32 PM
Wish my ski boat had a real motor in it like yourse
Cheers.
#8 _mick74lh_
Posted 10 May 2011 - 06:58 PM
Awesome man.
Wish my ski boat had a real motor in it like yourse
Cheers.
Theres nothing wrong with a 308. I really like your boat
#9 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 10 May 2011 - 08:03 PM
Cheers.
#10 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 10 May 2011 - 08:37 PM
Hahah Cheers Bomber,
a good deal but I gotta say since playing with the 333 the 202's simplicity is a welcoming change, I can see why you'd want one in yours lol
I do like your ski boat too though!
#11 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 10 May 2011 - 09:20 PM
Looks really tiny, like mines only small and looks tiny in the water but the more i look at the pick of yourse the smaller it looks lol.
So cool though.
Cheers.
#12 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 10 May 2011 - 11:22 PM
I think also when its in the water it looks alot smaller because half of it is in the water, sits nice and low which is soo cool I reckon
maybe looks bigger on the trailer?
Cheers
Edited by Brad1979UC, 10 May 2011 - 11:28 PM.
#13 _willo_
Posted 11 May 2011 - 02:46 AM
#14 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 04 July 2011 - 10:46 PM
That was some really nasty oil/sludgy water there, being a custom sump, will need to make sure the sump doesn't have any holes in it before I fit it to the 202.
Started pulling off all the marine bits off the 186 and degreasing them starting with the manifold etc.
Then pulled off the timing cover/dog clutch assy. Here is where the carnage is! The driven gear has completely sheared off the keyway of the crankshaft !
There's also been a smith key fitted at some stage which may have been a repair job in the past?? Refer photos
I also did some research on the 186 engine number. The engine number matches up with this description:
'186NxxxxS Nasco (or equivalent) Replacement Motor for HK-HG (for engines supplied post HQ release)'
So I'm guessing from new whatever motor the customer ordered from Ramsay, they would have sourced a new block and gear from Nasco and fitted it to order maybe? I wasn't around at the time but uncovering things like this always fascinates me!
I'm probably going to sell this block, I'm thinking someone with a restored hr/ej/eh with some nasco accessories would love something like this for some extra attention to detail....I know some people get randy over particular engine numbers so someone will most likely want it lol.
Cheers
#15 _mick74lh_
Posted 05 July 2011 - 08:37 AM
Yeah we will have to thoroughly inspect that sump. Is that brass weld stuff a repair perhaps?
#16 _stooy_
Posted 05 July 2011 - 09:40 AM
I would suggest the brazing is defiantly a repair, its very easy to do and doesn't have the risks of blowing holes. I have never used it to seal something, though I can't see why it wouldn't work.
I would suggest with a deacent motor and a normal idle speed of 500-650rpm, you won't have key troubles again. Also you must make absolutely sure the key can't work, previosly I have used locktite metal mend to make sure. I will tell you more about it Sunday as its a long story.
#17 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 05 July 2011 - 05:36 PM
Yea it makes sense that if there's any potential play in the keyway that it will just eventually round itself off again but yea fill me in and hopefully I can reduce the chance of it happening again.
I'll need to get it onto a stand before I can take the sump off but will be interesting to inspect it. I'm also interested in whether it has a standard pickup or not.
#18 _wblje_
Posted 08 July 2011 - 05:21 PM
#19
Posted 08 July 2011 - 11:51 PM
I play with alot of boats and ah that extra key is always added as the key way cant support it! So you drill the crank and knock it in there.
Ring Tawco marine in bayswater he'll help you out
My last own Social boat was 192 powered, With the race boat's we always start them in gear it save's alot of damage (even thou these are V Drive boats but still Dog clutch setup)
Does Your sump have water runnin thru it? Between the pick up (in the boat) and the water pump? If not go easy on a worked motor It will cook the oil to the point oil stops working!
And
Cheers
Ed
#20 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 11 July 2011 - 10:22 PM
Ed, thanks for the info, that seems to be what i'm hearing, that the extra key is used for reinforcement, so I will be adding one in for sure when I put this together so that it holds. A quiestion though, will I be able to do this before I fit the crank? Personally I don't see why not.
The sump doesn't have water running through it, it runs through the block and head, then into the manifold then out to the exhaust pipe. Why would you have problems in a worked motor? Wouldn't the motor and oil be staying cool because its being cooled by mild lake water and not a closed loop warm/hot coolant system? It's a fairly mild cam I don't really forsee any problems, the 186 ran like a watch all day long.
#21 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 23 September 2011 - 11:51 AM
I got my dog clutch coupler that I needed so then it was time to press off the old crank and cam gears in favour of the new straight cuts! Cheers Stewart and Ross for helping with this.
also at the same time pressed on the dog clutch (Doing it before it goes into the motor however is a bit annoying as you can't see the timing mark on the crank and also, you can't actually slot the cam in like how you would normally, with the dog clutch on the cam will have to go in first, then the crank and then position of the cam will have to be checked with a dial gauge, it's pretty annoying but it will work ok). Still also need to drill and hammer the key into the dog clutch on the front of the crank for extra re-enforcement.
The water pump impellor is pretty shagged so I've got a jabsco rebuild kit coming
The sump is pretty cool, pulled it off the old 186 and cleaned it up, got some pretty sweet oil control baffles,
however it needed a clean because this is the oil that was in the bottom of it (manily due to the dog clutch breaking)
So I gave it a good clean inside and out and decided to bare metal it to get the paint that was peeling off removed and paint it a fresh coat of engine enamel.
Cam specs and cam gear pressed on! (should pull nicely)
Here is the old head with the tap in the back
And here is my effort on the back of the yella terra head I'm using, it was 3/8 BSP so a bit unusual but it's a plumbing fitting and it screws in nicely so with a bit of sealant should seal fine.
Last night Mick gave me a hand putting new welsh plugs in and cleaning up the bores, just using a three pronged drill hone tool. Some good cross hatching going on they should seal up ok, the bore walls looked good, just needed to get rid of the glazing.
Ohh and I found a spare welsh plug inside the block!! I guess it's for if you get stuck you can just pull it out and pop it in and keep going it you loose one haaha!
The deadline at this stage is the 8th October, to have it built, in and running and there's a few things on the boat itself I have to sort out so there's a bit of work but I have most of what I need, I also have some great help, and I have two weeks off tafe, so I can work on it all the way through!
Edited by Brad1979UC, 23 September 2011 - 11:52 AM.
#22 _doogs_
Posted 23 September 2011 - 12:11 PM
#23 _stooy_
Posted 23 September 2011 - 02:47 PM
Glad to see the bores came up well.
Are you sure that is the correct cam card? I am fairly sure when I read it Tuesday it said 211/211 at .050 not 242/242?
As Ross and I said, give us a yell when you need a hand.
Finally I don't know what you usually do but seeing the cam card got me thinking, I use this stuff to break in new cams. http://www.cranecams..._detail&p=25303 Orgers sell it.
I assume the plan is to get it running on the trailer, break the cam in and set the timing and idle mixture before we head for the lake?
Cheers
Stewart
#24 _Brad1979UC_
Posted 23 September 2011 - 02:58 PM
yea I want to run in the cam on the trailer and set timing etc before it hits the water.
#25 _stooy_
Posted 23 September 2011 - 03:27 PM
Cool trailer sounds like a good idea that way you know it runs when you get there, I am so pumped for that weekend!
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