33 replies to this topic

[dattoman]

http://www.mig-weldi...ig-tutorial.htm

[RBTORY]

whats the extent of your knowledge do you need all this interpreted or just some i may be able to help
cheers Andrew

[Shtstr]

Hey guys, I bought a Tig welder a little while ago but only just got around to getting some 100% Argon and having a go at some aluminum. Had limited success just using the manual but thought id get some advice before I just get frustrated.

If someone could tell me some good settings to get me started thatd be great... Welding some 3mm thick alloy plate atm (well trying)



Switches
TIG/MMA :
AC/DC :
2T/4T :
Pulse :
Remote :

Knobs
Start A :? not sure what this is but could be ramp up
Welding A :amps when running arround 67-70 amps for 3 mm
Background A :? not sure what this is for but would surjest it could be for clean width set at 3 to start
Downslope :down slolp is the amont of time you want the current to slowly go down in sted of just stoping nomly 1/3 of how much you turn the amp dial
Pulse Freq :ac/dc
AC Freq :ac
Pulse Width :half turn of the amps dial
Post Flow :prefow of gas before amps start to surround the area with argon before welding about 1-2sec
AC Balance : 60/40 start point as each welder is differnt.

[Evan]

Hey Clint.

These are my settings on my TIG200P for laying runs down on 2mm alloy using pulse without a foot pedal. These days for all materials im all about the foot pedal.



These are my cheat notes that i took off weldingtipsandtricks.




This is how much i have my tungsten sticking out.



Some of my welds. The size of the caps can be changed by how much filler rod you dip in.

Its all about seat time, Just lots of practice. It get heaps harder when you have to join bits of alloy together.

[Evan]

i usually just up start and welding amps about 20.

flick it over to 2T and flick on the controller switch.

Ev.

[RBTORY]

As above, i second that, heaps of practice and playing with settings an joining bits becomes fun

[wot179]

Your tungsten should be back level with the shroud when welding ally.

It should also be sharpened to a radius not a point.When it has a nice shiny ball on the end (as you describe),you've got it right..

Looking at the end of your weld bead,I would increase the downslope time setting and also the postflow setting to stop that cratering.

When Im welding 3mm ally,I use a 2.5 tungsten and work around 100 amps,a bit more (110-120) for an inside fillet using a narrow arc width,or a bit less (90-100) doing an outside corner to corner weld using a wide arc width.

Experiment with the arc width on an outside corner to corner to see what happens when you alter it.

Narrow arc width focuses the arc a lot narrower and gives deeper penetration,wide arc with gives that nice broad radius on an outside corner.

[Evan]

Nice work Clint. your certainly getting the hang of it!

I only usually change the tungsten if i dip it in the weld pool. Alloy can be forgiving but with carbon steel the arch turns to crap if you touch the steel with it.

wot179. cheers for the tips about tungsten position and down slope. i will give them a try.

cheers

Ev

[wot179]

AC frequency.

[wot179]

Check this link out,I just found it and its great.

http://www.millerwel..._calculator.php

I think I'll be referring to it a bit more in the future,I think Ive been doing a few things a bit wrong after reading that lot.

[wot179]

I think less frequency gives narrow arc with deeper penetration,more frequency gives a wider arc and less penetration.

Do a few samples to see what happens.