46 replies to this topic

[ACJ]

I started to make my extractors. First up was the collector.

I cut all 4 pipes at 12 degrees. Then rotated the pipe 90 degrees and made another 12 degrees cut. Placed all 4 pipes together and welded them.







Welded a plate to the bottom of the collector, filled with sand and welded 4 nuts to the top then put the bolts in to hold presser on the sand. Heated and bent them.





End result is a mega collector with 12 degrees convergent angle and mandrel bends. Still in a ruff state but will clean up OK


Hope some one like it
Thanks.

[Struggler]

Nice work !

[ACJ]

This is my very expensive collector jig. Its not even my drop sew. The plat bolts to the drop saw, the 2 rings are welded on at 12 degrees to the blade. The other ring fits over the tube and has 2 stopper (bolts welded on) set at 90 degrees.



Do one cut then rotate the pipe 90 degrees (to the other stopper). This is not exhaust pipe tube just some old pipe I had.





This is what it should look like.



Finniest off other collector today.





I got my tubing from midalia steel 1 � 6 meters long, 1.6mm thick for $39



My next plan is to cut black poly pipe to the length I need for the primaries. Heat and bend them for templates. I have mandrel bends only for the first bend out of the head. So I will sand bend the rest of the primaries.

Thanks

[rodomo]

Sum off yoose blokes r just a bit 2 cleva

[Struggler]

why do u fill the pipes with sand???

That is what everyone did before they invented mandrel bending.
It stops the pipe collapsing while you heat and bend it.

[ACJ]

Yeas it minimizes distortion to the pipe. A good sand bend will look just like a mandrel bend.

Also bangs for bucks for me. I bought 10 mandrel bends (off eBay $80) and 2x1 � 6 meters lengths of pipe for $78. A total of $158 for hand made tuned length extractors. I will also make 2 more collectors, 1 short set and 1 long set all with swaged end to slip onto the primary pipe. As I no my tuned length is between 29 and 32 inches long, I can change the length when my engine goes on the dyno to fine out the right length and get the best out of it all.

If it all goes good I think I will also get them ceramic coated (about $350 I think) so for $500 I will have ceramic coated dyno tune extractors for my eng combo, I think that�s good value.


Any thoughts or criticism much appreciated.

Thanks all

[wot179]

Lovin your work and following with interest.

[Bart]

http://www.jalopyjou...d.php?p=3686748

[Steve TPF]

They sure will. I'd like to add - nice welding! I always love to see someone's DIY photos, shows what's possible with a bit of know-how and a lot of elbow grease.

[RBTORY]

Nice work, allways better to have a go

Edited by RBTORY, 16 September 2011 - 12:43 AM.

[RBTORY]

sand bending is a dying art

Edited by RBTORY, 16 September 2011 - 12:46 AM.

[ACJ]

Thanks for all the good comments

Yes, sand bending is just about dead. But why ? for me it is much easier to get a very smooth and good flowing pipe with sand than cutting and welding.

Yes, there is a special sand I think its only fond deep in the Amazon jungle ? But a old timer that is very good with sand bending said yellow brickys sand is the next best thing. More important is that it is very dry �VERY DRY� I sit it on top of the potbelly stove for 24 hour or in the welding rod stove a work for 24 hour just to be sure.

If you are doing a long bend you may have to stop and tap the pipe some more to tighten the sand then tighten the end caps some more. Heat up a good 2 or 3 inches of pipe cheery red more on the out side of the bend. Bend slowly if it start to wrinkle on the in side edge try more sand pressure or more heat on the out side edge.

Have fun.

[makka]

JESUS! Some great work there!