The engine/k-frame will be coming out of my car in the near future. Now.. Is it easier/safer to remove the engine from the top, and drop the K-Frame out from under the car?
Or is it better to just lift the car up off the K-frame with motor still fitted? The K-frame is currently powder coated maroon, so its been out at some stage.. So hopefully it will drop come out pretty easily.
Ive got an engine crane also. .
Engine/K-Frame Removal
Started by
hanra
, Aug 17 2011 08:26 PM
37 replies to this topic
#1
hanra
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Posted 17 August 2011 - 08:26 PM
#2
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Posted 17 August 2011 - 08:29 PM
I think its a lot easier lifting the car over the motor and K-frame and rolling the lot out.
#3
lx308
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Posted 17 August 2011 - 08:48 PM
I'm sure Andy (ls2lxhatch) has explained the process in detail on the forum somewhere. I think he has even showed what weight is needed to be lifted when doing it without a hoist.
#4
View GaragePosted 17 August 2011 - 11:06 PM
I prefer lifting the car too, put the rear wheels on some ramps and you get enough height to leave the wheels on and wheel it all out. Lifting one end of the body is lighter than the drivetrain, a piece of RHS or 4x2 under the chassis rails is ample to lift on.
It mostly depends on what equipment you have and more importantly how your available space works best.
It mostly depends on what equipment you have and more importantly how your available space works best.
#5
hanra
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Posted 17 August 2011 - 11:12 PM
Ok guys. Thanks for that. Ive tried searching for info from ls2lxhatch but I cant find anything....
Ive got plenty of space/height in the shed and the decent sized crane. Or perhaps block/tackle?
Should the trans be removed first?
Ive got plenty of space/height in the shed and the decent sized crane. Or perhaps block/tackle?
Should the trans be removed first?
#6
Collo
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Posted 17 August 2011 - 11:20 PM
Don't need to remove the trans, just wheel it all out as one.
Block and tackle is easier IMO than an engine crane, as you don't have to work around the crane.
Block and tackle is easier IMO than an engine crane, as you don't have to work around the crane.
#7
_sshatch355_
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Posted 18 August 2011 - 12:36 AM
i just hold mine up with the crane and roll it out on the discs
its a lot easier with a block n tackle though
its a lot easier with a block n tackle though
Edited by sshatch355, 18 August 2011 - 12:38 AM.
#8
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 18 August 2011 - 02:02 AM
I did it the same way when I swapped engines around on...pulled the 253/4 speed out of my red hatch, then pulled the 202/4 speed out of the white hatch I had and stuck the 253 back into the white hatch. Piece of cake with the engine hoist. (I shipped the white one back there and sold it..)
Attached Files
#9
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Posted 18 August 2011 - 02:06 AM
And when I put the LS1 into the red car, I did it from underneath as well. But had the car up on 4 jack stands up in the air anyways while I was working on it, so just wheel the engine and trans under it on couple wheel dollies, then lifted it up through the engine bay, straight up and into place. Then lifted the K frame up into place and started taking measurements to make the engine mounts and what not..
#11
_napes_au_
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Posted 18 August 2011 - 07:29 AM
I'm glad you asked 'hanra', cause I'm planning on doing the same thing in a couple of weeks... We're going to try and use the hoist.... I put pictures up.... As long as I don't f#@k it up..
#12
hanra
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Posted 18 August 2011 - 07:56 AM
Awesome photos there guys!
What point on the car body are you using to lift from with the crane?
I was thinking of having the rear wheels up on car stands also.
What point on the car body are you using to lift from with the crane?
I was thinking of having the rear wheels up on car stands also.
#13
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Posted 18 August 2011 - 08:17 AM
I've used the bonnet catch, as well as a piece of 4x2 under the chassis rails with no issues. Just watch the chain on the body using the 4x2 method. Also, the crane will want to move forward as you lift it up. Shouldn't be an issue, but something to be aware of.
#14
_nial8r_
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Posted 18 August 2011 - 08:42 AM
dont forget to block the end of the tranny up either or there is going to be oil everywhere.
#15
_LS1 Hatch_
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Posted 18 August 2011 - 09:38 AM
dont forget to block the end of the tranny up either or there is going to be oil everywhere.
Please note my pictures
Learned from the past...lol...
#16
_napes_au_
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 05:57 PM
I'm converted.... Definitely the easiest way...
Erected a portable gantry with a block and tackle over the front
We attached it to the front bumper mounts with a Rotisserie bracket, then lifted it off. Note the stands at the back to give us extra height....
Finishing touches to the motor...
Lifted in onto the K-frame and we're ready to go... (Note, we accidental put the transmission cross-member upside down, but we won't talk about that
)
Simply rolled it into place...
... and lowered it down...
Once the body mounts were nipped up, we were done!!!
Erected a portable gantry with a block and tackle over the front
We attached it to the front bumper mounts with a Rotisserie bracket, then lifted it off. Note the stands at the back to give us extra height....
Finishing touches to the motor...
Lifted in onto the K-frame and we're ready to go... (Note, we accidental put the transmission cross-member upside down, but we won't talk about that
)Simply rolled it into place...
... and lowered it down...
Once the body mounts were nipped up, we were done!!!
#17
a9x868
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 06:10 PM
well done did mine the same way. slip the tailshaft yoke in the gear box and no oil spills [ i work for BP we all know what they are like regarding oil spills
anything we can do for the environment i say.?
good job your cars looking great!
anything we can do for the environment i say.?
good job your cars looking great!
#18
hanra
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 06:21 PM
Well Im glad I asked the question! You guys have certainly convinced me. I like the idea of the bracket used in the front bumper mount. I might copy that idea!
#19
_napes_au_
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Posted 05 September 2011 - 06:30 PM
well done did mine the same way. slip the tailshaft yoke in the gear box and no oil spills [ i work for BP we all know what they are like regarding oil spills
anything we can do for the environment i say.?
good job your cars looking great!
Thanks for that.... I've been meaning to get around to making my own build thread....
#20
hanra
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Posted 22 July 2012 - 09:36 PM
Just reading the GMH Manual in regards to K-Frame installation. Interesting note about gluing the rubbers to the under side of the chassis rail?
What are peoples thoughts on doing this? Might be tricky to line the bolt up through the small hole of the bush compared to lining up a large hole in the chassis rail if the bushes were fitted to the bolt to begin with?
What are peoples thoughts on doing this? Might be tricky to line the bolt up through the small hole of the bush compared to lining up a large hole in the chassis rail if the bushes were fitted to the bolt to begin with?
#21
Posted 22 July 2012 - 10:46 PM
Even stuck to the chassis rails I'd manage to knock them off again while trying to manoeuvre into place. Unless something is bent you can move them into the correct spot without too much issue, its the outriggers that always give the most grief.
#22
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Posted 22 July 2012 - 11:02 PM
I used a ratchet strap on the outriggers to pull them in that little bit last time I did it. Got the job done.
#23
GML-31
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Posted 23 July 2012 - 06:56 AM
i use my car trailer but otherwise same method
#24
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Posted 23 July 2012 - 01:17 PM
Brad,
I didn't use glue or anything to retain those four top bushes for the underside of the chassis rails - can't see the need for it really.
I found the four stud bolts held the bushes on the underside of the chassis rail in place just nicely, and so I merely lifted the k-frame into place
And so after lifting the frame into place, I put the top bushes over the studs and then tightened the nuts on a little ways before going to work on getting the outrigger legs into place.
Once done, I lifted the k-frame a tad more so it was tight against the rails and tightened up the four nuts.
Having said all this, I can't imagine having all that other gear on the k-frame would need a different method to than I used.
Cheers, TB
I didn't use glue or anything to retain those four top bushes for the underside of the chassis rails - can't see the need for it really.
I found the four stud bolts held the bushes on the underside of the chassis rail in place just nicely, and so I merely lifted the k-frame into place
And so after lifting the frame into place, I put the top bushes over the studs and then tightened the nuts on a little ways before going to work on getting the outrigger legs into place.
Once done, I lifted the k-frame a tad more so it was tight against the rails and tightened up the four nuts.
Having said all this, I can't imagine having all that other gear on the k-frame would need a different method to than I used.
Cheers, TB
#25
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Posted 17 May 2014 - 04:07 PM
Hi guys,
I've disconnected my engine/k-frame/gearbox from my LC and ready to lift the body up to roll it out like the others in this thread have done. Do you reckon using an engine hoist or block and tackle using a chain connected to either side of the radiator support panel (e.g. through the headlight holes or through the grille opening) would be sturdy enough as lifting points? Seems pretty solid to me. Any minor dents wouldn't bother me.
Cheers,
Jules.
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