Just a Mini Little Job
#1 _Squarepants_
Posted 06 October 2011 - 07:05 PM
This is the first one:
It has a small amount of rust in the lower sill:
So I cut it out:
I will replace it in 2 sections as the owner wants to keep the seam as per factory.
The progress is slow as I work 6 days and I have a family and house renovations to take care of as well, plus the owner hasn't made any definite plans as yet on how far he wants to go with it, but I enjoy doing this sort of stuff in my spare time. It's recreation that I get paid for.
I'm still waiting for the owner to make some decisions on what he's doing with it but the drivers seat mounts are cactus and there's a couple of small issues with the floor pan so I'll update the progress and plans as they happen.
He already has my next job lined up for me too:
It's a Cooper S race car that I'm going to deseam and degutter, fix some rust and probably some other custom work, depending on what he decides to do with it.
Like I said, progress is slow but will be updated as it happens.
Cheers!
#2 _CHOPPER_
Posted 06 October 2011 - 07:18 PM
#3 _Squarepants_
Posted 06 October 2011 - 07:24 PM
I reckon they'll be good things when he's done though, by the sound of his ideas.
#4 _Quagmire_
Posted 06 October 2011 - 11:41 PM
then just then you may understand the cult attraction with them
#5
Posted 07 October 2011 - 07:28 AM
#6 _Squarepants_
Posted 07 October 2011 - 06:47 PM
Hanra, that is a very sweet looking car, even if it is a mini, you've done a fantastic job with that! Are you looking to sell it? I don't think it's quite to this dudes taste but you never know.
#7
Posted 07 October 2011 - 07:07 PM
here is the last one I did up, original 1964 Cooper
#8 _Quagmire_
Posted 07 October 2011 - 07:50 PM
Quagmire, I own that movie on DVD ( I actually have both), but I still don't get it. You ever changed a fan belt on one? 4 hour job!
no...and sorry i don't intend to especially now you've said that
but they are a cult car....ask any pom and 99% will have or know someone who has owned one
#9 _Squarepants_
Posted 07 October 2011 - 08:53 PM
I wouldn't own one if you paid me though.
If I wanted something that was slow and handled like a go-kart, I'd buy a go-kart. At least they're easier to work on.
Thanks Makka, It looks like you did a good job on that one. I'll have a look at the gutters before I get too excited, the seams should be ok but I'll check the gutter situation before cutting anything off. I appreciate the heads up.
I'm no Dirtbag, afterall. I don't have a magic wand in my tool box.
Edited by Squarepants, 07 October 2011 - 08:57 PM.
#10
Posted 10 October 2011 - 08:00 AM
Hanra, that is a very sweet looking car, even if it is a mini, you've done a fantastic job with that! Are you looking to sell it? I don't think it's quite to this dudes taste but you never know.
Not looking to sell, just thought he may like to look at the pics.
#11 _mick74lh_
Posted 10 October 2011 - 05:05 PM
Hanra, that is a very sweet looking car, even if it is a mini, you've done a fantastic job with that! Are you looking to sell it? I don't think it's quite to this dudes taste but you never know.
Not looking to sell, just thought he may like to look at the pics.
Very nice. I've never actually been in one, but your one in particular looks like a shitload of fun to drive.
#12 _Squarepants_
Posted 10 October 2011 - 06:25 PM
Hanra, that is a very sweet looking car, even if it is a mini, you've done a fantastic job with that! Are you looking to sell it? I don't think it's quite to this dudes taste but you never know.
Not looking to sell, just thought he may like to look at the pics.
I'm sure he will, I certainly did!
#13 _Squarepants_
Posted 10 October 2011 - 08:04 PM
What's been done to the engine? It looks like an A series with SU's, what else has been done?
What does/would it do over the quarter mile? (I know this is not something Mini enthusiasts care about usually, I'm just curious)
Are they 13" rims? Would you say they make it handle better or worse?
Cheers mate, I know the owner of these cars would be interested in these answers too.
#14
Posted 11 October 2011 - 10:51 AM
Engine: 1330cc A-Series, Graham Russell Engineering Ported/polished/flowed head, Graham Russell Engineering RE13 Cam, Hypatec pistons/rings, twin 1 1/4in SU's, stub stacks, Ramflow filters, Petronix electronic ignition, re-curved dizzy, 3 core radiator/6 blade fan, High capacity water pump, Engine/Box painted in 2 pac red
Gearbox: 4 speed 4 syncro, KAD Quickshift, straight cut primary/idler/input gear, S clutch.
Diff: Cross pin diff centre, 3.44:1.
Exhaust: 3-2-1 LCB extractors, 2in straight through system with stainless straight through muffler, 3 1/4in tip.
Suspension: Spax 15 point gas adjustable shocks, Adjustable height f/r, Adjustable camber f/r, Adjustable castor, powder coated subframes f/r and suspension/brake components.
Wheels/Tyres: 12inch Performance Superlights, Dunlop Formula R D01J's 165/55/R12.
Brakes: Honda Civic 9.1 inch discs/calipers up front, Stock rear S drums,
Interior: Sparco Sprint Race Seats, SAAS 3 point harnesses, SAAS 12inch steering wheel, Nikken pedals/gear knob, Autometer Monster Tacho w/shift lite, Autometer oil pressure/water temp, Lowered steering colum, Billet indicator stalk/door lock, Billet window winders/door openers, Fire extinguisher.
Exterior: 2 Pac Ford Monza red, Jet White roof with white bonnet stripes, S arches, Bullet racing mirrors, 2 Monza Fuel Caps.
Stereo: Full Kenwood system, RDS head unit, 11 band electronic EQ, Six stack CD, Four 350w 7 by 10's, Two 180w 6in's, Two 750w 12in Subs, Two 4 channel 100w Amps, Steering wheel remote.
Quarter mile..... meh,,, A bit quicker then a stock V6 Commodore. They car only weights in the mid 600kg, I know guys that fit turbos/blowers to there cars get them really moving!!!!
10in rims/tyres are better for handling, but my 12's are still quite good but thats also down to my semi slick tyres.
#15
Posted 12 October 2011 - 03:45 PM
#16 _CHOPPER_
Posted 12 October 2011 - 06:20 PM
#17
Posted 13 October 2011 - 02:39 AM
#18
Posted 13 October 2011 - 07:55 AM
Im running two 1 1/4in SU's. A stock moke 1275 has one 1 1/2. Cooper S have twin 1 1/4. The Police Pack Cooper S's have twin 1 1/2's.
#19 _hutch_
Posted 13 October 2011 - 08:25 PM
try again
Attached Files
#20 _Squarepants_
Posted 15 October 2011 - 02:58 PM
Seriously though, that's a cool mini. Anything that customised is cool in my eyes.
What's different about the Clubman doors? Wind up windows? How much modification did they take to fit?
#21 _hutch_
Posted 15 October 2011 - 04:23 PM
#22 _Squarepants_
Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:47 PM
First step was to make a cardboard template of the inner panel. I originally cut it through the join between the inner and outer panels so I knew where the join was supposed to be. Once I'd made the template, then I could hook in and cut a bit more out so I wasn't welding on the join... (if you're pickin up what I'm puttin down. It should make more sense as I progress...)
I then had to make up the inner panel which now included a small part of outer panel seeing as I had cut the extra section out. This meant putting a small swage (dogleg) in the piece so when the 2 panels overlap they still end up flat to follow the body line. This is how I did it...
Firsly, I cut a new piece of steel with an updated template, marked it where the swage has to be from the old template, then found a spare piece of panel steel, the same thickness as the swage depth to clamp underneath the new panel to the bench...
With another piece of substantial sized plate clamped on top of it, both of them lining up with the swage mark...
Then with another substantially sized plate (I used 6mm thick x 50mm wide for both), I clamped that a little off the swage line with a drift on top (I used a piece of 50mm angle to spread the load) and gave it a few hits with a FBH...
And ended up with this...
I cut and bent a strip to fill in the inside of the door jamb, which also required a swage to match and tacked them in...
After fully welding them and cleaning them up, it looked like this...
To clean up the weld in the tight corner of the swage I used a Dremel with a tiny little round burr...
Worth it's weight in gold for this job!
There was then the task of the outer panels. I cut the first new piece to shape, and after a little curving to match the body lines I tacked it in like so...
The next piece to go in was the outer door jamb section which is spot welded from factory so i made the strip up and drilled it to match the factory spot weld spacing and plug welded it, as well as welding it to the new outer panel.
This is it all welded and cleaned up...
The last piece to go in was the lower seam which is where the lower sill and upper panel meet. As this is covered with a polished ally strip, and the fact that I have just welded the upper and lower panels together, I didn't see the point in sandwiching 2 pieces back in to it to invite rust to gather again. I put 1 piece in as such...
And finished...
I just need to prime it, give it a little spray filler and job done.
There may be more to do on this with seat mounts, etc, but I need to speak to the owner before I go any further.
Until next time... Thanks for reading, Cheers!
Edited by Squarepants, 03 December 2011 - 09:49 PM.
#23 _DrRetcorp_
Posted 03 December 2011 - 09:55 PM
#24
Posted 03 December 2011 - 10:11 PM
The clubman doors are longer,so what he done was to cut the whole door frame out of the donor car and weld it into the ute body,from memory the rear was extended to and the back window area was hand made too
No difference in length with clubman doors. Main difference is the burst proof door locks. To use clubby doors you would also need the door frame as it houses a different latch to a round nose. Shame he cut up a round nose van, there are few and far between.... He should of started with a clubman van and then fitted a round nose front, perhaps fibreglass and flip it.
#25 _wblje_
Posted 04 December 2011 - 06:37 PM
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