This happened.....
Started by
_SLEDGE_
, Nov 07 2011 09:03 PM
38 replies to this topic
#2
_SLEDGE_
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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:09 PM
Nylock nut on the lower ball joint left the building. I found the nut.. the thread had stripped and the nut popped off. thread on the ball joint is fine so I just presume it was a crap quality nut, maybe the nylon strip was crap and it loosened off a little?
I replaced it with a very good nylock, but should I be doing something different to prevent this happening again? two thinner nuts tightened against eachother? or drill through the stud and fit a split pin?
I was lucky that this happened at 5km/h, otherwise a lot of damage to the car and myself would have been done.
I replaced it with a very good nylock, but should I be doing something different to prevent this happening again? two thinner nuts tightened against eachother? or drill through the stud and fit a split pin?
I was lucky that this happened at 5km/h, otherwise a lot of damage to the car and myself would have been done.
Edited by SLEDGE, 07 November 2011 - 09:15 PM.
#3
_Gunmetal LH_
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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:11 PM
Shiyut!
I'm looking for lower ball joints with castellated nuts w/split pins as I don't like the nyloc nut idea!
That's why...
You say the nut stripped? F___ it off! Ball joint and all!
I'm looking for lower ball joints with castellated nuts w/split pins as I don't like the nyloc nut idea!
That's why...
You say the nut stripped? F___ it off! Ball joint and all!
Edited by Gunmetal LH, 07 November 2011 - 09:14 PM.
#4
_mick74lh_
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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:29 PM
Strewth! Did it damage the front spoiler at all?
The exact same thing happened to Brad with his UC a few years ago. The nyloc nut stripped and I'm pretty sure it actually landed on the road next to the car! He was very lucky that it happened at a similarly low speed.
Alot of the lower ball joint replacement kits that you buy now come with a nyloc nut though. I've been running a pair on the front of my Torry now for about 15000kms without any probs, touch wood. But they look to be a good quality high tensile nut. So I guess the lesson would be not to replace the nuts themselves with any random low-tensile mild steel nyloc nut.
The exact same thing happened to Brad with his UC a few years ago. The nyloc nut stripped and I'm pretty sure it actually landed on the road next to the car! He was very lucky that it happened at a similarly low speed.
Alot of the lower ball joint replacement kits that you buy now come with a nyloc nut though. I've been running a pair on the front of my Torry now for about 15000kms without any probs, touch wood. But they look to be a good quality high tensile nut. So I guess the lesson would be not to replace the nuts themselves with any random low-tensile mild steel nyloc nut.
#5
_SLEDGE_
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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:30 PM
nah I might just keep them because it looks tough? haha
#7
_SLEDGE_
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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:35 PM
Strewth! Did it damage the front spoiler at all?
The exact same thing happened to Brad with his UC a few years ago. The nyloc nut stripped and I'm pretty sure it actually landed on the road next to the car! He was very lucky that it happened at a similarly low speed.
Alot of the lower ball joint replacement kits that you buy now come with a nyloc nut though. I've been running a pair on the front of my Torry now for about 15000kms without any probs, touch wood. But they look to be a good quality high tensile nut. So I guess the lesson would be not to replace the nuts themselves with any random low-tensile mild steel nyloc nut.
No fortunately I was very lucky, it only cracked the inside lip of the flare but unnoticeable unless you look under the car. Check out the flex in the quarter panel in the first photo! No damage to that though, and the front spoiler didn't even touch the ground!
I think a pair of nuts are the way to go for the moment.. and then replace them altogether at some stage
#8
dattoman
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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:39 PM
One word
Moog
Moog
#9
Statler
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Posted 07 November 2011 - 09:40 PM
One word.......... MOOG
#10
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 07 November 2011 - 10:26 PM
Use Loctite 262 on the threads. They won't come loose any time soon then.
#11
_SLEDGE_
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Posted 07 November 2011 - 11:23 PM
Use Loctite 262 on the threads. They won't come loose any time soon then.
forgot to add that I did that too, got it at the same time as the high tensile lock nuts!
#12
Toranamat69
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 12:02 AM
Nylocks are simply a poor idea in suspension components. They are not a positive enough locking solution and split pins or conelocks are the minimum I would use.
Nylocks can and do loosen up with the correct frequency of vibration applied as you have discovered. Suspensions are subject to an almost infinite spectrum of frequencies.
I don't understand why we have ADRs our cars are built to and then parts houses bring whatever shite into the country they can find and it gets used on our roads.
Nylocks can and do loosen up with the correct frequency of vibration applied as you have discovered. Suspensions are subject to an almost infinite spectrum of frequencies.
I don't understand why we have ADRs our cars are built to and then parts houses bring whatever shite into the country they can find and it gets used on our roads.
#13
S pack
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 12:30 AM
Nylocks are simply a poor idea in suspension components. They are not a positive enough locking solution and split pins or conelocks are the minimum I would use.
Nylocks can and do loosen up with the correct frequency of vibration applied as you have discovered. Suspensions are subject to an almost infinite spectrum of frequencies.
I don't understand why we have ADRs our cars are built to and then parts houses bring whatever shite into the country they can find and it gets used on our roads.
^^^^ Couldn't agree more but it's not the ADR's that are at fault for poor quality parts it's our Australian Standards.
#14
dattoman
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 01:18 AM
How many of these Chinese import components do you think are really to Aussie Standards
The standards themselves are a joke
Alot just cover a manufacturing procedure... not the quality of the finished product anyway
The standards themselves are a joke
Alot just cover a manufacturing procedure... not the quality of the finished product anyway
#15
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 02:39 AM
If the thread is completely stripped in the nut then it sounds like it was the result of over torqued or poor quality nuts.The same could happen just as easily with poor quality castellated nuts.
If only the nylock had failed then you would expect to find some of the thread in the nut undamaged.
Many of the Moog ball joints use nylocks, although I would be more comfortable with castellated or deformed locking.
If only the nylock had failed then you would expect to find some of the thread in the nut undamaged.
Many of the Moog ball joints use nylocks, although I would be more comfortable with castellated or deformed locking.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 08 November 2011 - 02:49 AM.
#17
_SLEDGE_
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 02:58 PM
If only the nylock had failed then you would expect to find some of the thread in the nut undamaged.
This was the case.. a couple of threads close to the nylock were intact which indicates it had loosened off before it stripped..
Nylocks can and do loosen up with the correct frequency of vibration applied as you have discovered. Suspensions are subject to an almost infinite spectrum of frequencies.
I'll be changing from the nylocks for this reason! and changing the ball joints altogether in the very near future
dattoman or Statler do you have a link to a supplier of Moog joints? I've heard good things about them
cheers
#18
dattoman
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 03:30 PM
I'm getting some Moogs in soonish
I buy them ex USA direct
I buy them ex USA direct
#19
rodomo
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 03:41 PM
For that to have come loose, the pin would have had to come loose in the taper first I would think?
Provided that the nut was correctly torqued initially.
Which leads me to think that perhaps some pins might not be spot on with their taper angles?
OR
The hole in the stub was not the right shape from a previous loose ball joint episode?
What I'm getting at is when these things are assembled properly and in good order, they can be a bugger to get apart because of the grip in the taper.
Provided that the nut was correctly torqued initially.
Which leads me to think that perhaps some pins might not be spot on with their taper angles?
OR
The hole in the stub was not the right shape from a previous loose ball joint episode?
What I'm getting at is when these things are assembled properly and in good order, they can be a bugger to get apart because of the grip in the taper.
Edited by rodomo, 08 November 2011 - 03:44 PM.
#20
LX2DR
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 04:30 PM
Best have a very very good look at the taper now as if it was loose for a while its probably ruined the taper as well, so it may happen again even with a good quality ball joint.
#21
_SLEDGE_
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 06:18 PM
I used HQ stub axles... is the taper any different to a torana stub axle? That didnt even cross my mind when I was building the front end...
anyway, I'll check the taper for damage that's a good idea. They were perfect when I got them.
I'm pretty sure I torqued the nuts correctly, used a torque wrench and torqued to an amount specified by a race/track suspension builder and he said he's never had a problem.
anyway, I'll check the taper for damage that's a good idea. They were perfect when I got them.
I'm pretty sure I torqued the nuts correctly, used a torque wrench and torqued to an amount specified by a race/track suspension builder and he said he's never had a problem.
#22
Toranamat69
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 06:20 PM
For that to have come loose, the pin would have had to come loose in the taper first I would think?
Provided that the nut was correctly torqued initially.
Not neccessarily.
#23
Statler
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 07:09 PM
dattoman or Statler do you have a link to a supplier of Moog joints? I've heard good things about them
I bought mine from Rock Autos in the US. I think they were around $160 for a set of uppers & lowers with freight included. Turnaround was really good.
Sorry, i don't have the part # as i threw the boxes away last week.
Check the suspension threads, that's where i got them from.
I bought mine from Rock Autos in the US. I think they were around $160 for a set of uppers & lowers with freight included. Turnaround was really good.
Sorry, i don't have the part # as i threw the boxes away last week.
Check the suspension threads, that's where i got them from.
#25
Toranamat69
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Posted 08 November 2011 - 07:48 PM
Tapers are identical HQ to Torana. I have the reamer to suit if it just needed a little tidy up. Since you are in Melbourne - it may be easier just to replace the stub if you see any damage.
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