If you fit some spacers it will jack the rear up a bit but you will still have a soft spring.
It may overcome some of the squat a bit but I think a heavier spring would be a better option.
For example,when the arse end goes down at launch(squat) it means your instant centre is too low,
and it will get lower as the rear goes down and cuase front wheels to lift.
The other extreme is when the arse end lifts at launch(antisquat) causing excess wheel spin.
It is a compromise between starting off with a spring that will give you slight antisquat at standstill
then at launch travel to the ideal neutral postion.
The pics might make more sence than the shite i speak at times.
[attachment=17854:sq1.jpg]
[attachment=17855:sq2.jpg]
[attachment=17856:sq3.jpg]
Rear Suspension
Started by
_BULEBOSS_
, Dec 09 2011 08:43 AM
54 replies to this topic
#26
EunUCh
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Posted 08 January 2012 - 08:22 PM
#27
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 08:33 AM
Cheers balls 
I've got 4cyl springs in the rear to help with weight transfur but I'm thinking of getting 6cyl springs and see how that goes. If I used the spring spacers and lifted it about 18mm but still used the soft 4cyl spring will it effect it much?
I've got 4cyl springs in the rear to help with weight transfur but I'm thinking of getting 6cyl springs and see how that goes. If I used the spring spacers and lifted it about 18mm but still used the soft 4cyl spring will it effect it much?
#28
_CHOPPER_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 01:09 PM
I've just checked a couple of books and it appears the 4 and 6 cyl rear springs are the same.
#29
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 01:15 PM
I've just checked a couple of books and it appears the 4 and 6 cyl rear springs are the same.
are they.. as in size and stiffness?
#30
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 01:27 PM
Based on the fact the books list all the different front spring options and only list one rear spring.
#31
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 01:35 PM
oh ok. Might have to look into the spacers a tad more I think. need about 1inch all round. The superpro 18mm’s might be enough. going in this week sometime too see it my mags backspace can be altered too. Which will help with rubbing on the outer guard lips
#32
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 01:37 PM
If the spacers are cheap, just chuck them in and give it a go. The minimum thickness of the bolt up face for an alloy rim is 1/2". But just because it's thicker than that doesn't mean they can be machined.
#33
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 01:46 PM
i think old mate was thinking of cutting and re-welding it or something? but might have to buy new outer rims to do that which are $130ea and then $80ea rim to do or i can buy new rims for anywhere between $200-$350ea so dunno what i wanna do yet.
just called about the spacers. apparently only front ones are made. $60 for the 2x front kits delivered. $22ea kit then freight. might be worth seeing if it will work.
What can you do in the rear to raise it a tad?
just called about the spacers. apparently only front ones are made. $60 for the 2x front kits delivered. $22ea kit then freight. might be worth seeing if it will work.
What can you do in the rear to raise it a tad?
Edited by injlc304, 09 January 2012 - 01:50 PM.
#34
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 01:55 PM
In that case, don't touch the rims. Sell yours and get some new ones. That sounds a bit more financially viable and safer. For the rear spacers, get a plastic kitchen chopping board and cut that to size.
#35
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 02:00 PM
yeah i was thinking about doing that. we have some pretty heavy duty rubber at work too so might see if i can do something with that.
#36
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 02:02 PM
The rubber will wear through a lot quicker than the plastic they use in the chopping boards. You can get them new for about $10 at KMart etc. so you won't upset the wife. You will need a jigsaw to cut it.
#37
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 02:11 PM
no worries might have a look and see what i can do. ran around for the front spacers and have found them for $48 for the front.
Edited by injlc304, 09 January 2012 - 02:12 PM.
#38
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 02:15 PM
also i noticed on the rear rubber bushes it had a groove for the spring to sit into. kind of spun the spring til it dropped into the groove and locked into place. is it suppose to have that 'groove' and how would you put that into the chopping board if needed? or could you peel up the rubber, fit the chopping board underneath then re-fit the rubber on top?
#39
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 04:07 PM
The location groove is supposed to be there. You could heat up the end of a spring and insert a groove using the hot end.
#40
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 04:49 PM
Leave the body insulator in place at the top of the spring and put the spacer at bottom of the rear spring which is flat.
#41
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 05:06 PM
Leave the body insulator in place at the top of the spring and put the spacer at bottom of the rear spring which is flat.
body insulator? guessing that is the rubber groove thing the spring locked into?
#42
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 08:32 PM
Just looked at the rear n you can do it easy.
#43
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 08:48 PM
Body insulator is the peice of rubber that is usually fitted to the upper end of spring that has a locate (spiral) groove.
I would make a spacer out of the HD rubber and fit it under the (flat) part of spring to see if it makes a diff.provided there is enough
height in the lower locater to allow w/out having the spring too close to the top of the locater.
Raising the rear will raise I.C but because the spring is still soft i would think that at launch the rear
will still want to squat but because it is higher the majority of squat will happen a bit later,due to the IC starting
off a bit higher but then under squat moving down as it all starts to happen.
Of course this will be controlled to some extent by the high speed compression of shoks but it will still
tend to want to squat no matter what,compromize is always the hardest problem to overcome.
But with a little play here and there to find out what was better/worse,,,and write it down somewhere
so that you's have a record of what was better/worse.
If you reely want to do some math,,measure the distance from front & rear of upper ctl arms & lower ctl arms while car is
at rest on a flat surface and draw a sketch,, then do some pretty tricky triangle calculations to find
where the IC is in relation to COG and go from there.
I was never much good at that sort of stuff but its bloody interisting
I would make a spacer out of the HD rubber and fit it under the (flat) part of spring to see if it makes a diff.provided there is enough
height in the lower locater to allow w/out having the spring too close to the top of the locater.
Raising the rear will raise I.C but because the spring is still soft i would think that at launch the rear
will still want to squat but because it is higher the majority of squat will happen a bit later,due to the IC starting
off a bit higher but then under squat moving down as it all starts to happen.
Of course this will be controlled to some extent by the high speed compression of shoks but it will still
tend to want to squat no matter what,compromize is always the hardest problem to overcome.
But with a little play here and there to find out what was better/worse,,,and write it down somewhere
so that you's have a record of what was better/worse.
If you reely want to do some math,,measure the distance from front & rear of upper ctl arms & lower ctl arms while car is
at rest on a flat surface and draw a sketch,, then do some pretty tricky triangle calculations to find
where the IC is in relation to COG and go from there.
I was never much good at that sort of stuff but its bloody interisting
#44
_injlc304_
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Posted 09 January 2012 - 08:59 PM
No worries cheers again. I think I'll try with some hd rubber first and see if it makes any diff. I'm tinkering with a few different thinks ATM and am already writing down what does/doesn't work. It's good to learn and I'm learning heaps off people on here which is great for me.
#45
_injlc304_
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Posted 12 January 2012 - 02:04 PM
The suspension system used on all LC Torana's was basically the same as on previous models, although spring and damper rates were revised for the six cylinder versions, and the mounting points were naturally different. In addition to higher rated springs and shocks the six cylinder Torana's were equipped with plenty of rubber bushings to enhance ride quality and isolate road noise.
just found this on some torara spec website
just found this on some torara spec website
#46
_injlc304_
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Posted 18 January 2012 - 10:41 AM
so whats better for rear end suspension set up?? Soft or hard? Everyone seems to have the original 6cyl springs and 90/10 shocks in the front but no one ever mentions what rear set up they have. If the rear is stiff it will rely on the wheels for grip and if its soft it will take the major shock through the springs? I have no idea this is just a guess. anyone? Please??
#48
_BULEBOSS_
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Posted 18 January 2012 - 01:18 PM
I would think a soft spring is going to cost you time. While the spring is compressing the car is not going foward.
A firm spring would get the power down faster, If you can control your right foot....
But I am only assuming that is the case,
A firm spring would get the power down faster, If you can control your right foot....
But I am only assuming that is the case,
#49
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Posted 18 January 2012 - 01:52 PM
No worries cheers mate. I really want to be able to go close to full throttle off the line. Only one way to find out i think
#50
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Posted 18 January 2012 - 10:33 PM
I would agree with BULEBOSS,take a look at funny car/top fuel cars.
The only susp.is the rear tire.
More down movement in rear means more sky for driver.
Of course its a compromize but keeping it level seems to be the aim.
The only susp.is the rear tire.
More down movement in rear means more sky for driver.
Of course its a compromize but keeping it level seems to be the aim.
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