Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

350 Chev in LX Hatch

Started by _v8toyota_ , Mar 22 2012 06:04 PM

Prev

Please log in to reply

32 replies to this topic

#26 _AD_75_

Guests

Posted 28 March 2012 - 04:23 PM

First up, none of the pics so far show pipes going thru the inner guards. The Best Mufflers pipes thread around the lower control arms and outriggers before coming back to the conventional location.

For any street SBC Torana the Hurricane 4:1 1 5/8" pipes that T0rana has in both the red and black/chrome engine bays are sufficient and bolt in with no modifications. If you make more than about 300 HP then it pays to cut off the 2 1/8" collector and replace it with 2 1/2". This got my UC to an 11.0 quarter so they aren't too bad.

FWIW I would think an engineer would be more concerned about someone modifying the K frame than cutting a hole in an inner guard.

JMHO

You're right Andrew that car on the hoist is the 2Tough torana..and it isnt running the headers up through the inner guards as i thought at first glance. I still stand by what i said about running exhausts up through the inner guards on a street reged car though, the issue being brought up by inspectors is altered structural integrity. Some cars with big holes cut out for intercooler piping often get knocked back too.

Anyway the obvious solution as mentioned is to run smaller pipes..but the op did ask about fitting 1 7/8 primaries. I do know of another torana being built currently with an LS1 using 1 7/8 primaries and its being done with a modded K-frame/trimmed rails and of course custom header pipes. Even if you want to use 1 5/8 pipes its still going to be a tight fit and you still will need to modify the firewall for the dizzy which means belting it with a hammer..or trimming it neatly.

Edited by AD_75, 28 March 2012 - 04:24 PM.

Back to top

#27 Struggler

Forum Fixture

Members
2,426 posts

Name:Andrew or AJ
Location:Canberra A.C.T.
Car:UC Sedan
Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 28 March 2012 - 06:19 PM

Struggler, Did you have to trim your firewall for the dizzy?

I always do with a SBC or BBC. I hate things being close and like to give myself as much room as possible.

P1020497.JPG 106.78K 2 downloads

Back to top

#28 Struggler

Forum Fixture

Members
2,426 posts

Name:Andrew or AJ
Location:Canberra A.C.T.
Car:UC Sedan
Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 28 March 2012 - 06:25 PM

...... the issue being brought up by inspectors is altered structural integrity.......

I'm not argueing with you, it just doesn't make any sense to me to be concerned with the change in structural integrity with a hole hacked in the inner guard (which is mainly cosmetic) compared to totally remanufacturing your front crossmember (which holds the engine up and supports the steering/suspension).

Back to top

#29 jonesy

Forum Fixture

Members
637 posts

Location:perth south of river
Car:hatch
Joined: 16-August 10

Posted 28 March 2012 - 09:38 PM

Just coming in at the end and prob have not read everything properly but if your looking for extractors that are the biggest you can get in there talk to Fullnoise he is a forum member and made my pipes they are a tight fit but they are a good fit. My motor is 434 sbc making 565 fwhp and as far as I know they will be fine (he is in perth give him a bell and he will fill you in on all the specs) Mods...well I needed as mentioned before a mini hi Tourque starter the was able to rotate so the solenoid was at the bottom, removed the guard over the steering coupling, tuff mounts, remove the sway bar and fit after market one (haven't got there yet), fire wall lip shave due to msd, cross member from the rod shop, shave the little wings off of the t350 bell housing (to get the pipes through) I think that's it so far... As suggested I put it all on the k frame and lifted the car over the top ( car not painted yet just a mok fit) I mounted the extractors up after fitting motor the the k frame just needed starter and oil filter off for them to slide in. Have a look at my build thread to see the pipes. And if you need Fullnoise's number pm me

Edited by jonesy, 28 March 2012 - 09:43 PM.

Back to top

#30 myss427

Forum Fixture

Members
1,636 posts

Location:Canberra
Car:427 hatch, CV8 Monaro, Ve SSV ute. Was part owner A9X sedan until he sold it without telling me!
Joined: 17-November 05

View Garage

Posted 29 March 2012 - 08:10 AM

I have 4 into 1's that are 1" and 7/8ths to 2" 1/8 and with the above trimming I got them in without going through the guards. Its tight, but time and effort it can be done and works. Mine have clearance and don't touch, have built a few sets of four into ones for LS2"s but if I did it again would go Try Y's unless your after big power.

Back to top

#31 LXCHEV

Lotsa Posts!

Members
3,510 posts

Name:Brett
Location:Melbourne
Car:'76 LX - 383 Chev
Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 29 March 2012 - 08:59 PM

G'day Jason,

I've played around with 3 different sets of pipes on my LX which is running a 383 Chev. 1-5/8 Tri-Y's, 1-7/8 4-into-1's, and 1-3/4 Tri-Y's. There are heaps of details & pics in my LXCHEV build thread... this link should take you to the right page if you're interested....

http://www.gmh-toran...t/page__st__100

I've never modified my standard LX K-Frame at all. I did trim the engine bay/chassis rail lips though which helps heaps with fitment and removal (the trimming is not required for clearance).

A small starter motor is a must to make life easier too. And I also recommend triming the firewall for dizzy clearance.

You asked about chassis strengthening kits - I used the CRS kit, and find it works well. This also helped my car to breeze through the engineering process. If you're a bit of a fabricator, you could make your own, but I was after an 'off-the-shelf' solution.

Good luck with it all.

Back to top

#32 _v8toyota_

Guests

Posted 20 April 2012 - 09:48 AM

FYI... Castlemaine Rod Shop don't do a conversion for an opel motor to chev. They do offer a complete Kit which includes engine mounts (EM001S), T350 Xmember (XMLH350), Gear reduction starter (GR/1TOR), Extractors TRI-Y - 1 3/4" Prim, 1 7/8" Sec, 2 1/2" Y's (EX78), Sump to suit SBC, speedo cable. It all arrived this morning and looks pretty solid. Am waiting for the v8 KFrame to arrive and all should be sweet. Will start to post sum build pics in the 'Garage'.. Hopefully all will slot in with minimal swearin and cursin..

Back to top

#33 _Oceanpaddler_

Guests

Posted 18 January 2015 - 06:51 PM

Hi Jason,

How did all the parts from CRS go for you 350 chev conversion. I am about to do same and have just priced all these parts. would you do anything differently?

cheers,

Ryan

FYI... Castlemaine Rod Shop don't do a conversion for an opel motor to chev. They do offer a complete Kit which includes engine mounts (EM001S), T350 Xmember (XMLH350), Gear reduction starter (GR/1TOR), Extractors TRI-Y - 1 3/4" Prim, 1 7/8" Sec, 2 1/2" Y's (EX78), Sump to suit SBC, speedo cable. It all arrived this morning and looks pretty solid. Am waiting for the v8 KFrame to arrive and all should be sweet. Will start to post sum build pics in the 'Garage'.. Hopefully all will slot in with minimal swearin and cursin..