Hey guys, been takin the car for some shake down runs to iron out any bugs before rego. But the bonnet keeps popping open and luckily being caught by the 2nd catch.
I've tried loosening and tightening the catch/spring assembly.
Added a 2nd spring to help keep the catch held closed
Even filed out the holes of the lower assembly that's bolted to the car to try shift it closer to the catch. Got better and thought it was fixed then pop once again.
The upper half attached to the bonnet is chromed if that matters?
Any ideas?
Bonnet keeps popping open
Started by
_Viper_
, May 19 2012 06:29 PM
26 replies to this topic
#3
hanra
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 07:28 PM
Any chance of seeing pics of how your bonnet cable is retained to the body?
#4
S pack
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 07:38 PM
Try adjusting your bonnet dick so it engages a bit deeper into the latch mechanism.
#5
_nial8r_
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 08:17 PM
check to see how worn the bonnet dick it, there might not be enough of a lip there anymore for the catch ??
#6
_L32M20_
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 08:27 PM
bonnet dick .nice. wondered what that bit was called.didnt want to make assumptions you understand.
#7
_Viper_
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 08:32 PM
Ahh so thats what you call it lol.
The "dick" had one side which was worn quite abit and I thought aha I found the problem... so made sure I had it so the worn side was on the other side... But still no good... the rest of it looks un-worn.
Yea? Where abouts and what with? (crc or grease etc?) and whats your theory behind it?
Thanks for the ideas guys
The "dick" had one side which was worn quite abit and I thought aha I found the problem... so made sure I had it so the worn side was on the other side... But still no good... the rest of it looks un-worn.
I tried loosening it which made the bonnet sit up high and still did it, so tried making it really tight and yeh still the same.Try adjusting your bonnet dick so it engages a bit deeper into the latch mechanism.
Ill grab one tomorrow... I had hassles getting the stock type clip to fit in without snapping them, so ive just got a cable tie holding it on near the latch? I wouldn't think that's a problem as its anchored at the other end? do you think its somehow moving and pulling the catch open? I did actually loosen off the clamp thats on the very end of the cable so it actually had some slack as I thought maybe its holding it a touch open.Any chance of seeing pics of how your bonnet cable is retained to the body?
Try lubing it??
Yea? Where abouts and what with? (crc or grease etc?) and whats your theory behind it?
Thanks for the ideas guys
#8
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 08:47 PM
You can borrow my catch to work out which part is not working.
#9
_nial8r_
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 08:47 PM
the spring on the striker might be shagged and or the striker it self might not be coming out out all the way to grab the dick good and proper 
#10
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 08:59 PM
haha. The spring is fairly firm but just to be sure I did add a second spring to see if that would help... nope. (we are talking about the sliding what I could call the catch on the bottom half of the assembly thats bolted to the rad support right?)
And it also slides all the way across and cannot go any further (not without filing it out, which I may try)
Ill grab some pics tomorrow of what I have.
And it also slides all the way across and cannot go any further (not without filing it out, which I may try)
Ill grab some pics tomorrow of what I have.
#11
hanra
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 09:43 PM
Ill grab one tomorrow... I had hassles getting the stock type clip to fit in without snapping them, so ive just got a cable tie holding it on near the latch? I wouldn't think that's a problem as its anchored at the other end? do you think its somehow moving and pulling the catch open? I did actually loosen off the clamp thats on the very end of the cable so it actually had some slack as I thought maybe its holding it a touch open.
Nah I was more referring to this thread:
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/60436-bonnet-cable/page__fromsearch__1
#12
View GaragePosted 19 May 2012 - 10:15 PM
Sometimes its as simple as the cable isn't returning all the way, it becomes habit in a Holden to give the release a push to ensure its all the way in before driving off...
#13
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 19 May 2012 - 10:32 PM
Just lube everything.
I had this issue with teh landcruiser, bonnet would close, then pop back up again, refer to "longest drive of your life"
Turned out the catch was just a bit gunked up and wasnt locking properly, a good hit with some random lube and she's a treat.
Simple stuff first.
Lithium grease would be best i recon, i used motorcycle chain oil on the landcruiser one cause thats what i had.
I had this issue with teh landcruiser, bonnet would close, then pop back up again, refer to "longest drive of your life"
Turned out the catch was just a bit gunked up and wasnt locking properly, a good hit with some random lube and she's a treat.
Simple stuff first.
Lithium grease would be best i recon, i used motorcycle chain oil on the landcruiser one cause thats what i had.
#14
_nial8r_
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 08:51 AM
haha. The spring is fairly firm but just to be sure I did add a second spring to see if that would help... nope. (we are talking about the sliding what I could call the catch on the bottom half of the assembly thats bolted to the rad support right?)
And it also slides all the way across and cannot go any further (not without filing it out, which I may try)
Ill grab some pics tomorrow of what I have.
yeah that the part, check to see if it coming all the way out, disconnet the cable altogether and see if it grabs the penis lol if it does then it could be your cable that is shagged, the cable might have frayed and stopping it from returning all the back..
#15
Redslur
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 09:35 AM
From my experiences it is usually one of two things. Either the 'bonnet dick', as everyone is calling it, needs to be unwound half a turn or the cable itself is fractionally too tight. That would be my guess.
#16
_Viper_
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 02:00 PM
Didnt get a chance to have a play with any of the above suggestions yet, but I did grab a couple pics.
Still got 2 springs on there, can anyone spot anything wrong?
Still got 2 springs on there, can anyone spot anything wrong?
#17
_nial8r_
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 02:37 PM
Clint on the bottom striker plate there should be a bit of movment if you loosen off the 4 bolts and move it across a little bit allowing the catch to grab a hold of the penis abit firmer and see what happens 
or even the penis plate, there should be atleast 5 - 10mm if both are moved. i think its just the fun part of fine tuning like gaps in doors, bonnets etc. lets us know how you go
or even the penis plate, there should be atleast 5 - 10mm if both are moved. i think its just the fun part of fine tuning like gaps in doors, bonnets etc. lets us know how you go
#18
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 02:43 PM
I does not look like the catch plate lever/mechanism comes across far enough into the hole, could just be the picture. Mine is about 6 mm into the hole.
Sliding the catch to the left as nial8r suggested will help. I would take the spring and washer off the striker/dick and check the alignment with the catch then refit the spring and washer.
Sliding the catch to the left as nial8r suggested will help. I would take the spring and washer off the striker/dick and check the alignment with the catch then refit the spring and washer.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 20 May 2012 - 02:45 PM.
#19
davelh
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 03:36 PM
try adjusting the bonnet rubber adjuster (either side at the front) so they sit firmer against the bonnet. Mine used to pop open all the time, I wound the screws out a bit, re fitted the rubber and it never opened again. My theory was it was bouncing and allowing it to pop itself open. If these adjusters are snug fitting, it can shake itself open.
Worked for me, just a thought.
Cheers
Dave
Worked for me, just a thought.
Cheers
Dave
#20
_Viper_
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 03:42 PM
Yeh I tried to move the bottom plate across, even filed out the holes about 2mm
Top plate was already across as far as it could
Top plate was already across as far as it could
#21
_LH SLR 3300_
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 06:02 PM
IMO, Bomber & ls2hatch are on the right track. To get proper function from the bonnet catches on my Toranas, i release the return spring on the catch then apply white grease to the moving part & operate it back & forth a few times to make sure it doesn't bind up. Once i'm satisfied it's action is fluid & it returns to the fully locked position, i re-fit the spring & test the function again. I then adjust the bonnet bump stops so the bonnet sits level without the "dog's dick" or whatever you want to call it fitted to the bonnet. Then i re-fit the "dog's dick" & have a helper pull the release cable & hold it open while i open & close the bonnet a few times to make sure there is no binding. Once i'm satisfied there is no binding, i adjust the "dick" until the bonnet closes with a positive latching without needing excessive effort to release it. The catch should hold the bonnet down enough to keep pressure on the bump stops, if it is "springy" when gently pushing down, the "dick" needs to be wound in a fraction more. I use the above method when aligning/re-fitting bonnets on alot of cars in the course of my job, it's even harder when the cars have fixed catches etc with no adjustment. Again, JMO & hope it helps.
#22
_Viper_
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:11 PM
That sounds like a good procedure bud, I'll give that a go
#23
_nial8r_
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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:29 PM
you could always just weld the frOcker shut 
#24
_Yella Fella_
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Posted 21 May 2012 - 09:07 PM
I just greased the locking plate with white grease in the latch and all was good.
If LH/LX shut with two hands either side of the middle ridge so you don't push your ridge in (most torries are pushed in to some degree.
If LH/LX shut with two hands either side of the middle ridge so you don't push your ridge in (most torries are pushed in to some degree.
Edited by Yella Fella, 21 May 2012 - 09:07 PM.
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