chassis twisting
#1 _V6 UC_
Posted 17 June 2012 - 10:08 PM
#2
Posted 17 June 2012 - 10:38 PM
#3 _V6 UC_
Posted 17 June 2012 - 10:47 PM
#4
Posted 17 June 2012 - 10:48 PM
#5
Posted 18 June 2012 - 09:30 AM
#6
Posted 18 June 2012 - 11:14 AM
#7 _V6 UC_
Posted 18 June 2012 - 12:13 PM
#8 _Baronvonrort_
Posted 18 June 2012 - 04:27 PM
Ok thanks for that, I'm a boilermaker so making something up is not problem. Just needed to know what.
CRS do a bolt and weld in chassis kit, you could copy that or do something similar.
I think the CRS kit is heavy and overpriced so if someone could measure one up we should be able to improve on it.
#9
Posted 18 June 2012 - 06:12 PM
#10 _V6 UC_
Posted 18 June 2012 - 06:38 PM
#11 _Baronvonrort_
Posted 19 June 2012 - 11:36 AM
Yeah I want to keep weight down asmuch as possible. Chasing tines
With 500 ft/lb it should do good times.
Are you going to fit a roll cage or roll bar considering 500 ft lb should put you into the range where one is required?
I dont think there is much engineering in the CRS chassis kit, it looks like a cheap quick fix and if you compare the weight to a roll cage it might be heavier to use the CRS kit for less result.
I dont think the chassis connector does much, when you measure torsional rigidity you would bolt the rear shock mounts to a jig along with one front crossmember mount and then jack up the other crossmember mount with a hydraulic jack then measure hydraulic pressure verses deflection.
Cutting the radiator support panel to make it easier to swing the motor in is a huge mistake, it ties the front of the chassis rails together, i would box off the U section that holds the bonnet release catch, the bumper bar also ties the chassis rails together so i would not be removing that.
The seam on the firewall also needs more welding, this one is in line with chassis rails under heater box, i would spot weld and TIG the ends along with adding more welds around door openings.
I am currently drawing up some lightweight underfloor stiffeners to be welded on that will tie into existing chassis rails,should be lighter and more rigid than the CRS kit,i want to run a flatter floor for drag and lift reduction.
#12 _V6 UC_
Posted 19 June 2012 - 04:09 PM
#13 _greenmachine215_
Posted 20 June 2012 - 10:12 PM
#14 _V6 UC_
Posted 21 June 2012 - 07:39 PM
#15
Posted 08 December 2012 - 08:22 PM
Pull ur carpet out if u stitch the mounts on ! I had an underlay combustion problem when I done my hatch :-)
Did you try to weld the carpet to the floor?
#16
Posted 08 December 2012 - 11:30 PM
They are prone to twisting.......I know of many small six LXs tha have body flex problems, that's why so many have panel gap issues.I think you will pull the diff mounts out of the floor before any serious twisting.
Listen to this man, he knows........As above, weld control arm mounts and also box lower control arms.
The SHS gearbox crossmember and tail shaft loop help, but better if you have th chassis connectors to join them to.
Grant..
#17 _sshatch355_
Posted 09 December 2012 - 04:18 PM
#18 _sshatch355_
Posted 09 December 2012 - 09:42 PM
#19 _injlc304_
Posted 11 December 2012 - 11:41 AM
#20 _SLEDGE_
Posted 11 December 2012 - 12:13 PM
lol.
#21 _injlc304_
Posted 11 December 2012 - 01:11 PM
#22
Posted 11 December 2012 - 04:37 PM
#23
Posted 11 December 2012 - 09:39 PM
#24
Posted 12 December 2012 - 06:14 AM
I wont tell anyone if you don't. It takes the flex out of the arm & stops them distorting.thread hijack but is boxing the lower arms up legal?? thinking of doing it on mine. would you be about to notice the difference in handeling at all?
#25 _injlc304_
Posted 12 December 2012 - 07:41 AM
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