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Stall Size / Brand help?

Started by _injlc304_ , Jul 06 2012 11:47 AM

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15 replies to this topic

#1 _injlc304_

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 11:47 AM

hi all,

http://www.gmh-toran...t-at-the-drags/

if you read my link above it should have enough info.

If not My car is a LC with a 355, Trimatic, 9" with 3.7 gears

g/box has a 2800 stall in it.

Im looking at getting this car into the high 11's and i've come to the conclusion i don't wan to touch the motor and a few people have said change the stall.

What would be a better size/brand to go to? Would i be better off doing this or changing the diff gears from 3.7 to a 3.55?

Also this is a street car so i dont want something stupid like a 5000rpm stall.

any info would be great.

Cheers

Chris

Edited by injlc304, 06 July 2012 - 11:50 AM.

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#2 _injlc304_

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 12:31 PM

if you think the diff is the easier option do you know of any places that do gears cheaper then normal but are still good quality

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#3 _ljxu1torana_

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Posted 06 July 2012 - 10:29 PM

hi all,

http://www.gmh-toran...t-at-the-drags/

if you read my link above it should have enough info.

If not My car is a LC with a 355, Trimatic, 9" with 3.7 gears

g/box has a 2800 stall in it.

Im looking at getting this car into the high 11's and i've come to the conclusion i don't wan to touch the motor and a few people have said change the stall.

What would be a better size/brand to go to? Would i be better off doing this or changing the diff gears from 3.7 to a 3.55?

Also this is a street car so i dont want something stupid like a 5000rpm stall.

any info would be great.

Cheers

Chris

i have a friend with a 5 grand stall convertor in his 10 sec 408 cube xd falcon.it is a easy car to drive around town and on the highway at 100 k/ph.it is not that bad.depends on your camshaft to convertor size.thanks jason.

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#4 dattoman

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Name:Neil
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Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
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Posted 06 July 2012 - 10:44 PM

I don't think you have the mph and hp to go much harder despite convertor and ratio change
Happy to be proven wrong though

Personally I'd think a convertor needs to be sorted based on cam specs etc... so I'd ring allfast and tel lthem what you have and get their recommendation
I'd say if that is a 2800 in there now you need to get to 3500
Also the ratio change would give more mph if you could turn it as hard as you do now... but the reality if without more hp you'd go slower by going to 3.5
To go faster et you'd have to go higher numerically... 3.9/4.11 or so
But you'll have to rev it alittle harder
A change in convertor and 4.11's might see you pick off a high 11.9 on a good day
You also need to launch harder... say about 3000rpm... convertor will help with this... on and drop the pressure back down to 16

Cheapest and easiest way to sneak those extra 2 tenths though would be a little 50 shot of NOS into the manifold on a fogger though

Oh and if you want to buy some Yukon or Motive diff gears.... let me know

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#5 mr5000

chief break-everything

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 08:17 AM

tce stall convertors in melbourne best in the business

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#6 _injlc304_

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 03:37 PM

I could really feel the car nose Off with about 50m to go so going to a 3.9 /. 4.11 won't do much To help. It's hitting peak power too early that's why I was thinking going to a 3.55 ratio. It's a light car n has 550nm torque so getting off The shouldn't be too much different but should get a bit more top end speed. 1 way to find out I guess.

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#7 dattoman

Do I feel lucky? Well, do ya, punk?

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Name:Neil
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Car:LX SS , 76 Cadillac , 3 x dattos
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Posted 07 July 2012 - 03:43 PM

http://www.ebay.com....2#ht_1480wt_754

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#8 _rob350hatch_

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Posted 07 July 2012 - 11:04 PM

I used a 9.5 inch 3grand eliminator with 308/t400/3.7 it wasn't an overly powerful engine but that stally was a game changer.
My vh is running 331/trimatic/3.7 and that same type of stally.

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#9 _fryzem_

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 08:36 PM

if your convertor is meant to be a 2800 and only pulling upto 2500 it could be a hp thing. how much power is it making, what size carb? what intake? a 355 in a lc should turn 6500 easily. to me sounds as though the cam is too small or the carb or manifold or just the tune. there are so many variables. either way with the right top end setup and tune it should make power all the way to 6500 plus and put you into the mid nines even.

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#10 dattoman

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Name:Neil
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Posted 09 July 2012 - 08:48 PM

Its not carb... its infected..... from memory

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#11 _injlc304_

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Posted 09 July 2012 - 09:47 PM

Dattomans Onto it. She's injected. I don't have cam specs but I'm led to believe its only a baby hydrolic cam (got screwed by the engine builder) I know if I put a decent solid in her it'd fly but it all comes down to $$$$ I'm certain that's why she dies off just after 5000rpm. But I'm hoping with a few tweaks ie diff gears it'll help drop me that 0.2s. If it can do 11.9999 I'll be happy as a pig in poo considering she only has 288rwhp I'm still stoked she did a 12.2

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#12 Struggler

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Name:Andrew or AJ
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Posted 10 July 2012 - 08:03 AM

Are you using the standard 304 bananas intake ?

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#13 _injlc304_

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Posted 10 July 2012 - 09:49 AM

na got a torque power manifold with a 1000cfm TB

The tuner was even diserpointed with the dyno results and said the engine builder must have only put a baby cam in it. ill change it to a solid one day but buying a house is higher in my list at the moment.

Edited by injlc304, 10 July 2012 - 09:50 AM.

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#14 _ljxu1torana_

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Posted 10 July 2012 - 11:47 PM

Dattomans Onto it. She's injected. I don't have cam specs but I'm led to believe its only a baby hydrolic cam (got screwed by the engine builder) I know if I put a decent solid in her it'd fly but it all comes down to $$$$ I'm certain that's why she dies off just after 5000rpm. But I'm hoping with a few tweaks ie diff gears it'll help drop me that 0.2s. If it can do 11.9999 I'll be happy as a pig in poo considering she only has 288rwhp I'm still stoked she did a 12.2

with 288hp i dont think that you are not going to get much more out of it.if you run a 12.2 seconds with 288 hp you are getting every bit of power out of it.thanks jason.

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#15 _shan620_

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Posted 15 July 2012 - 07:21 PM

mate have a chat to Fred at Protrans, he built my gearbox and put a custom A1 converter in mine. He seems to know his products as he races his Torana aswell. He'll want to see a dyno sheet so he knows when your engine is getting peak power, so he can get the converter to match that.

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#16 _TorYoda_

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 06:00 PM

Getting a convertor correct needs more than just a dyno sheet. Weight of the vehicle, tyre diameter and gear ratio also have an effect on how any given convertor will 'stall'. The dyno sheet will help the convertor guy understand the type of power/torque the engine will produce and that allows him to give you the most effective convertor for your specific combination. I have been building them for almost 25 years and guys have won track championships using my work. If your car launches hard without bogging down then convertor is not your problem. Nosing off 50m short of the line will cost you about 6mph and as much as 5 tenths ET. A 1.8 sixty is very efficient for a regular street car so obviously you have good traction and torque available with your current convertor for a strong launch. From my own 30 years of drag racing experience the simplest and most cost effective solution for your goal is to up your gearing so the car pulls all the way to the line. If your sixty ends up significantly slower then you will need to revise your stall speed, however until your gearing takes you all the way to the end without nosing off fitting a different convertor will be of no benefit at all.

Edited by TorYoda, 17 July 2012 - 06:06 PM.