Rerouting front brake lines
#1
Posted 11 June 2006 - 09:16 PM
Couple of questions.
I am looking to clean up the engine bay on my LH and move the front brake lines away from where they enter the innear wheel wells.
Has anyone done this and where do you actually run them?....any pic's would be good.
And I intend fitting vn brakes and m/c.. do i need to change the brake lines size (inside dia) to suit or are the standard torana ones acceptable/the same size?
What other mod's do i need to do to fit this m/c and brakeing system?
Thanks for all replys.
Cheers Rod.
#2
Posted 11 June 2006 - 11:23 PM
or change booster as well, you have to modify pedal rod end and possibly stroke.
lines do not have the same thread so either custom lines or retro commy lines as well.
Edited by ALX76, 11 June 2006 - 11:24 PM.
#3
Posted 12 June 2006 - 02:31 PM
I am looking to clean up the engine bay on my LH and move the front brake lines away from where they enter the innear wheel wells.
Has anyone done this and where do you actually run them?....any pic's would be good.
I have run brake lines under the guards before. Drilled holes under the master cyl. and dropped lines thru them, then run them along outside of the rail and used the original flexible line mounts. Pass. side went across under the radiator and up the other side. May be able to find a pic later tonight. I also used a Ford XY-XB master cylinder on the LX booster. Lines come out on the inner guard side rather than the engine side. Just a bit tidier.
#4 _Herne_
Posted 12 June 2006 - 02:40 PM
Very interested in the Ford master cylinder setup too. I was thinking of just running the lines under the lip on the outside of the rail. thus the passengers side would also run across and under the small lip on the firewall.
Cheers
Herne
#5
Posted 12 June 2006 - 03:07 PM
Struggler, is there a special tool needed to bend the brake lines or can they be carefully bent by hand?
Just bend them over something round, metal spray can etc. There is a special tool for tight radiuses. You are welcome to borrow it (much easier to do with the engine out !!!).
Very interested in the Ford master cylinder setup too.
I will check when I get home from work for the pics, I may have something. Any offers for hosting ?
#6 _Herne_
Posted 12 June 2006 - 03:12 PM
Cheers
Alan
#7
Posted 12 June 2006 - 07:46 PM
The Ford m/cyl is almost a bolt on. The mounting holes need to be filed out a tiny bit, the locating pilot needs to be filed down a touch and the pushrod that comes out of the booster needs to be lengthened a bit. No more than a half hours work.
Benefits include the brake lines exiting on the guard side of the cylinder and the warning light switch being incorporated into the cylinder. Makes getting to plugs 5 and 7 heaps easier. I threw away the prop. valve and replaced it with a HQ 1 Tonner valve initially, then an adjustable Wilwood unit. I have run it without a prop. valve but it was inclined to lock the rear wheels under heavy braking (uncool).
For what its worth my HQ uses a Mazda RX7 master cylinder with no booster. I have also used this master cyl. on VH/K Commodores and LX Toranas before (off road use only - no booster). I have also used a Datsun 180B master on a Torana before (also boosterless). The reduced bore size allows the deletion of the booster. Probably highly illegal and not recommended for street use as pedal effort is increased (it is possible to lock the brakes still), but a great compromise for recreational/ drag race vehicles.
I'm sure Dattoman will be unable to resist commenting on this !!!!!
Again, I do NOT recommend deleting the brake booster for street use.
#8
Posted 12 June 2006 - 08:49 PM
Thanks for the insight, might go the way of replaceing the booster and all see what happens.
Struggler
very interesting.. thanks for the info mate
so what does the blue oval brigade use for there prop valve?
#9
Posted 12 June 2006 - 08:59 PM
Thanks for the insight, might go the way of replaceing the booster and all see what happens.
i actually used VH/VK V8 with internal prop.
in any case unsure you know what your up for as it concerns welding the shaft to accept the pedal connection.
torana lines dont screw to commy.
i believe it is a twin diafram model as VH40.
Edited by ALX76, 12 June 2006 - 09:02 PM.
#10
Posted 12 June 2006 - 09:16 PM
so what does the blue oval brigade use for there prop valve?
I guess they balance the system by adjusting the hydraulics to suit (caliper piston size and w/cyl bore).
#11
Posted 13 June 2006 - 12:21 AM
I don't like boosters myselfI'm sure Dattoman will be unable to resist commenting on this !!!!!
I prefer to "feel" the brakes
Its not recommended and its illegal to do
But if you ever drive a well setup non boosted system its much nicer than a std factory boosted setup
In my opinion anyway
And yes Fud used cylinder displacements to balance their brakes
#12
Posted 13 June 2006 - 01:39 PM
mine run down from the mcyl to my prop valve beside the chassis rail, then the passenger side line runs behind the engine and along beside the chassis rail.
#13
Posted 13 June 2006 - 01:45 PM
#14
Posted 13 June 2006 - 01:47 PM
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