Putting in a Cruise Control in my Auto UC. Only problem I've got is the speed cable. If I remove the center console, can I pass the cable down through the transmission handle hole?
Cruise Control
Started by
_Swampy_
, Jun 13 2006 01:50 PM
17 replies to this topic
#2
Dr Terry
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Posted 13 June 2006 - 04:13 PM
Hi Swampy.
If this is just the wiring to the speed sensor, run it with the kickdown wire up to the firewall & then come in thru the speedo cable grommet.
Dr Terry.
If this is just the wiring to the speed sensor, run it with the kickdown wire up to the firewall & then come in thru the speedo cable grommet.
Dr Terry.
#3
_Swampy_
_Swampy_
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Posted 13 June 2006 - 07:07 PM
From what I can see, the cable is too short for this. I don't wan't to extend the cable as I'd have to find my wire and it's been packed...
#4
_Leakey_
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Posted 13 June 2006 - 07:29 PM
Hi Swampy what kit are you using? Command, Autron etc?
My neighbour is Command, and has bucketloads of how to's for his install guys.
Maybe he has one I could send to you.
Let me know, preferably PM me.
Cheers, Leakey
My neighbour is Command, and has bucketloads of how to's for his install guys.
Maybe he has one I could send to you.
Let me know, preferably PM me.
Cheers, Leakey
#5
MRLXSS
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The Render Garage
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Posted 13 June 2006 - 10:05 PM
Id be interested to hear when u finish swampy as to how easy it was and maybe some hints... i wouldnt mind doing this to my hq some time down the track...
Cheers
Cheers
#6
_Swampy_
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 12:20 PM
Hmm..installed everything, went out for a test, turned it on, heard a banging noise underneath the car, then nothing. Cruise control doesn't work. Think I've thrown the magnets. Can I use fridge magnets?
#7
_gm3300_
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 03:29 PM
i use an AP60 cruise control (Command) on my Pulsar, it has double sided tape and tie wires to hold the magnets on, which are on the outside of the inner cv.
It works really well, holds the speed within a tight range (considering it's no fireball and has the most unresponsive auto ever made), also makes a big difference to fuel consumption.
grant
It works really well, holds the speed within a tight range (considering it's no fireball and has the most unresponsive auto ever made), also makes a big difference to fuel consumption.
grant
Edited by gm3300, 14 June 2006 - 03:31 PM.
#8
_Swampy_
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 04:13 PM
Which doesn't help me at all. I had the magnets, the double sided tape and the wire. I have now lost the magnets, so saying I had them doesn't help me.
#9
_gm3300_
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 04:40 PM
you could test to see if fridge magnets are strong enough to trigger the pickup, run one past it with a multimeter connected to the terminals, how did you have the pickup mounted?
grant
grant
#10
_Swampy_
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 07:34 PM
Mounted on a bar screwed to the floorpan. Solved that problem, found a fridge magnet with a normal thick magnet and used that. Now the problem is getting it to decellerate. Mounted the cable sheath too far away, need to adjust that.
#11
_Oldn64_
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Posted 15 June 2006 - 06:13 PM
Firstly I have had no success with the double sided tape. I have always used JBweld two part epoxy to glue them on teh tailshaft. Your magnets need to go at the gearbox end as close to the uni as possible. Once there position the pickup about 5mm MAX (galant and other cars I have done this to I run 3mm) and all should be fine. Decelerate is just clicking the reset button a couple of times. should feel teh car come down. you might find that the system is not sensitive enough and thus you need to step it up. What diff ratio do you have?
The Galant has 4.11 and I had an issue using two magnet as per insturctions as the diff ratio was too high. If you have 3.36 or lower you will be right, firstly might would nto keep 110km or 100kh as it ran out of sensing count at about 95km. solution was to increase sensitivity or loose a magnet.
Cheers
PS: Matty, easy to do great investment and neat to install. Cheapest kit is about $180
The Galant has 4.11 and I had an issue using two magnet as per insturctions as the diff ratio was too high. If you have 3.36 or lower you will be right, firstly might would nto keep 110km or 100kh as it ran out of sensing count at about 95km. solution was to increase sensitivity or loose a magnet.
Cheers
PS: Matty, easy to do great investment and neat to install. Cheapest kit is about $180
#12
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 15 June 2006 - 08:25 PM
All the speed sensor stuff sounds 'easy enough', but how about the mechanics of the throttle control, how are they setup...adaptability to different setups, how much space do they require...mounting brackets etc?
#13
_Oldn64_
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Posted 16 June 2006 - 02:50 AM
Generally they come with mounting brackets and run off your tB or throttle cable itself. My setup was placed inside (never again the solenoid is hell noisy) and runs of my accelerator pedal. If I did it again I would place the solenoid somewhere outside but still not in teh engine bay (like having people not see things like that..All the speed sensor stuff sounds 'easy enough', but how about the mechanics of the throttle control, how are they setup...adaptability to different setups, how much space do they require...mounting brackets etc?
) and run it still off my accelerator pedal.Cheers
#14
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 16 June 2006 - 07:52 AM
Hmm........my setup is tricky enough just gettin the accelerator cable to pull on the throttle in the right direction, Swampy can you post some photos of the underbonnet setup please?
#15
_Swampy_
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Posted 16 June 2006 - 08:32 AM
I would, but I I've got it working accelerating but not decelelrating, the cable just bends and doesnt push. I've got mine connected to the carburettor.
I'll take photo once I've got it working.
I'll take photo once I've got it working.
#16
_gm3300_
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Posted 16 June 2006 - 09:19 AM
This the setup i use on the Pulsar, the clamp bracket for the cable is supplied in the kit, i drilled and tapped the acc cable bracket, and used a bolt as the support for the cruise cable. I made and welded an arm to the original acc pivot and hooked up the cable to it, i made it so nothing fouled and it followed the same direction as the acc cable, so far no problems. I use 2 magnets on the cv hub as its front drive.
grant
cruise setup
grant
cruise setup
#17
Dangerous
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Posted 16 June 2006 - 12:48 PM
I fitted a Command AP50 to a 308 LX a while ago, and it worked very well. I didn't want to drill any extra holes in the engine bay, so I just bent the supplied throttle cable module bracket so that it could be mounted on the existing front driver's side bonnet hinge bolt. I ran the cable parallel to the throttle cable, and mounted it directly to the carb linkage, in another hole that I drilled in it.
DA, it's quite a small unit - the throttle actuator unit is not much bigger than a tennis ball, and it has a small rectangular control unit to mount under the dash. I mounted the switches onto the indicator stalk with P clips, so it was all removeable without leaving any extra holes.
On this model, the sensitivity is changeable by dipswitches on the control unit, and I used two magnets on the tailshaft without a problem. If you really have to drop to one magnet, don't just take one off, as this will change the balance of the tailshaft - move one magnet back slighlty so the pickup doesn't 'see' it. Oldn 64 is right about the location of the magnets. They need to be right up the front of the tailshaft, so that as the rear axle moves up and down, the tailshaft (which also obviously moves up and down with it) doesn't change its position relative to the pickup.
Another good thing about this model and some others, but not all, is that it uses tacho sensing to shut off the cruise control setting. This is so that if the car is shifted into neutral or the clutch is pushed in while the car is 'in cruise', the sudden increase in revs tells the unit that it's out of gear, and it drops the car out of cruise mode. This means that you don't need a clutch switch for a manual, or a selector switch for an auto.
Swampy, the cruise control cable shouldn't have to push the throttle closed. Your existing throttle spring should be seeing to that. All the cruise contrl cable should have to do is go slack when it wants to decelerate, and the throttle should be pulled closed by the throttle return spring.
DA, it's quite a small unit - the throttle actuator unit is not much bigger than a tennis ball, and it has a small rectangular control unit to mount under the dash. I mounted the switches onto the indicator stalk with P clips, so it was all removeable without leaving any extra holes.
On this model, the sensitivity is changeable by dipswitches on the control unit, and I used two magnets on the tailshaft without a problem. If you really have to drop to one magnet, don't just take one off, as this will change the balance of the tailshaft - move one magnet back slighlty so the pickup doesn't 'see' it. Oldn 64 is right about the location of the magnets. They need to be right up the front of the tailshaft, so that as the rear axle moves up and down, the tailshaft (which also obviously moves up and down with it) doesn't change its position relative to the pickup.
Another good thing about this model and some others, but not all, is that it uses tacho sensing to shut off the cruise control setting. This is so that if the car is shifted into neutral or the clutch is pushed in while the car is 'in cruise', the sudden increase in revs tells the unit that it's out of gear, and it drops the car out of cruise mode. This means that you don't need a clutch switch for a manual, or a selector switch for an auto.
Swampy, the cruise control cable shouldn't have to push the throttle closed. Your existing throttle spring should be seeing to that. All the cruise contrl cable should have to do is go slack when it wants to decelerate, and the throttle should be pulled closed by the throttle return spring.
#18
_Swampy_
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Posted 16 June 2006 - 04:28 PM
Yep, found out today whilst changing oil etc that I'd connected the cruise control cable to the choke cable, not the throttle cable. 
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