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VN rear Brakes

Started by _toddy_ , Jun 13 2006 09:40 PM

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21 replies to this topic

#1 _toddy_

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Posted 13 June 2006 - 09:40 PM

Hi guys I just got my new backing plates back and I know all you guys want to know how to do it so I took some pics and will give you the details

Basically the centers need to be welded up and bracketry removed, rotated and replaced

I dont really know how to explain it so I will put up the pics and hope they help

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New backing plate with hand brake mech moved.

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left is original Right shows that the brake caliper holder part and hand brake mech has been moved.

(the part shown on left is what needs modifying)

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Flip side of same. (note hand brake lever slot)

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The end result.

Torana brake lines fit but I need new ones as mine were cut.
The next photo shows why I had my brakes put to the front (they hit the shockies BAD)
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I hope this can help you guys as I found it confusing but it is an easy conversion once you put your mind to it.
P.S. I was told to use the torana hand brake cable and find a cable company to put commodore ends on that..

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#2 _QIKSLR_

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Posted 20 June 2006 - 07:46 PM

Thanks for posting this mate, I need to relocate my caliper too.

I understand what you've done with the backing plate, but I can't make sense of what you modified on the bit the handbrake mech goes in.

Also with the handbrake cable, I reckon a commodore wagon/ute handbrake cable is the go. It'll mount up at the front the same, it'll mount to the rear brakes obviously. Only thing is it's a bit longer than standard, but a few spacers up front will sort it out. The stock commodore cable is too short. Only difference with mounting is instead of mounting to those hooks on the side it bolts to the floorpan.

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#3 Peter UC

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Posted 21 June 2006 - 10:36 AM

Went past a Ford dealership yesterday and noticed that the Falcon rear brake setup on the live axled cars have the caliper mounts in front of the axle. So maybe that could be the setup to use. To my knowledge they use a drum brake handbrake like the VN onwards Commodores. Of course none of this is useful if you already have the Commodore brakes.

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#4 Dr Terry

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Posted 21 June 2006 - 04:35 PM

Hi Guys.

The EF & later Fords use a handbrake sytem similar to the VT & later Commodore. It's called the Banksia handbrake, is Australian designed & uses on 1 shoes not 2. It is totally different from the unit pictured above.

The handbrake on all rear disc Commodores from VB to VS use the Opel set-up with 2 shoes.

Dr Terry.

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#5 _QIKSLR_

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Posted 22 June 2006 - 01:22 PM

I already have the commodore rear discs setup. Only issue is caliper clearance.

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#6 makka

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Posted 22 June 2006 - 03:42 PM

how is that beast of yours coming along Bomber?

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#7 _QIKSLR_

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Posted 23 June 2006 - 08:23 AM

how is that beast of yours coming along Bomber?

Very slowly dude! Funds are very tight at the moment. I'm hoping to have it painted this year. In the mean time I'm trying to get all my suspenion sorted out so I can get it rolling again.

Cheers
Marty

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#8 _brett_32i_

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Posted 23 June 2006 - 09:21 PM

yes, banksia care of PBR

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#9 _LX8VD69_

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Posted 24 June 2006 - 06:39 PM

I already have the commodore rear discs setup. Only issue is caliper clearance.

if you havent shortened the diff then it just fits, there is about an inch clearance so if was you i would put new rear shockers on first as you will hace to remove the whole brake set up to get the bottom of the shocker off, well i would have to for mine. the problem i am having and i dont know if any one else is that the axles arent sitting home so the rear seals arent sealing and theres oil leaking out, i had to get some 1/4 inch spacers made to fix that. i used old bearing cups as they are already the perfect size they are just too wide, i just got them machined to 1/4 inch thick. i havent put them on yet but my mechanic says hes done this before on f#*ds so im gonna get him to do it for me :furious:

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#10 _QIKSLR_

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Posted 26 June 2006 - 09:06 PM

I already have the commodore rear discs setup. Only issue is caliper clearance.
if you havent shortened the diff then it just fits, there is about an inch clearance so if was you i would put new rear shockers on first as you will hace to remove the whole brake set up to get the bottom of the shocker off, well i would have to for mine. the problem i am having and i dont know if any one else is that the axles arent sitting home so the rear seals arent sealing and theres oil leaking out, i had to get some 1/4 inch spacers made to fix that. i used old bearing cups as they are already the perfect size they are just too wide, i just got them machined to 1/4 inch thick. i havent put them on yet but my mechanic says hes done this before on f#*ds so im gonna get him to do it for me

Have you got the right oil seal mate? Fords have a different oil seal for drums and disc brakes. Are you using the cone type barings? I had to change my oil seal and had to get my axel shorted slightly as the oil seal was overhanging, but I found that the axel was actually bottoming out on the pin in the diff center. So I had a few mm shaved off the end and now it fits.

Yeah, my diff is shortened. Here's how close mine is:
Posted Image

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#11 _LX8VD69_

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Posted 26 June 2006 - 09:52 PM

nah im still using a bango

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#12 _73lj202_

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Posted 27 June 2006 - 08:29 AM

Hi Guys.

The EF & later Fords use a handbrake sytem similar to the VT & later Commodore. It's called the Banksia handbrake, is Australian designed & uses on 1 shoes not 2. It is totally different from the unit pictured above.

The handbrake on all rear disc Commodores from VB to VS use the Opel set-up with 2 shoes.

Dr Terry.

The man who designed this system is Nui Wang. Avery nice & clever bloke!

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#13 _355lxss_

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Posted 27 June 2006 - 03:04 PM

I already have the commodore rear discs setup. Only issue is caliper clearance.
if you havent shortened the diff then it just fits, there is about an inch clearance so if was you i would put new rear shockers on first as you will hace to remove the whole brake set up to get the bottom of the shocker off, well i would have to for mine. the problem i am having and i dont know if any one else is that the axles arent sitting home so the rear seals arent sealing and theres oil leaking out, i had to get some 1/4 inch spacers made to fix that. i used old bearing cups as they are already the perfect size they are just too wide, i just got them machined to 1/4 inch thick. i havent put them on yet but my mechanic says hes done this before on f#*ds so im gonna get him to do it for me
Have you got the right oil seal mate? Fords have a different oil seal for drums and disc brakes. Are you using the cone type barings? I had to change my oil seal and had to get my axel shorted slightly as the oil seal was overhanging, but I found that the axel was actually bottoming out on the pin in the diff center. So I had a few mm shaved off the end and now it fits.

Yeah, my diff is shortened. Here's how close mine is:

QIKSLR; looks like your very close to touching there! How much have you shortened you diff by?
Im wanting to run vn disks too but i have gotten my diff shortened by 2 1/5 inches either side. Ive dont think it would clear the inner gaurd or shocker?

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#14 _QIKSLR_

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Posted 27 June 2006 - 08:28 PM

nah im still using a bango

Ah, I reckon it's an oil seal issue.

355LXSS, I think my diff is only shortened an inch all up, so I reckon you'll definately will have problems. However if we can work out how to do the above mod, we'll all be sweet.

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#15 _J&S Racing_

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Posted 27 June 2006 - 09:06 PM

Just FYI i thought i would show you this, it's the setup my Brother's got on his shortened 9 inch with commodore brakes as you can see the guy's that built the diff have re-located the shocker post to clear the caliper.
Posted Image

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#16 _toddy_

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Posted 07 July 2006 - 04:06 PM

Ok Guys
I havent been on here for a while and I am guessin that you all need to know how the hand brake works

As in the pics the backing plate needs to have the hand brake mechanism removed and rotated, Basically turned around so the left and right sides can be swapped
I dont have an old backing plate but I will try to get one so I can post a pic of that
I will also pull a wheel off and post a pic of my brakes mounted with no rotor so you can see how it looks...

I can see this in my head but it is hard to explain

get original backing plate and place on axle
Observe where hand brake mechanism sits (this needs to be moved)
Remove hand brake mechanism
rotate backing plate to desired position
replace (weld in) hand brake mechanism
axle mount bolt holes need redrilling and relocation
splash gaurd needs to be either re drilled or redrill the backing plate
bolt it all together and done

Now that I have written this I am going to get an old backing plate and cut it up and take photos to show you...That will be easier....

OR
cut around the base where the dust cover joins rotate that and weld in ( not reccomended) but easy

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#17 _youngy_11_

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Posted 08 July 2006 - 09:19 AM

That would be great toddy because I want to put rear disks on my hatch and im just doing some research ATM.

What disk set up is the easiest and cheapest to fit to a LX hatch with (i think) a banjo diff??

I have read the article with the UC disk brakes and they look quite easy to fit, but will the commodore ones be much better that those.

Any info appreciated.

thanks ryan

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#18 _Aidan_

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Posted 10 July 2006 - 11:43 PM

I didnt have any of this trouble with putting VR discs on my borg warner.. I put the backing plates on so the caliper faces the front and just simple swapped the way the handbrake hook faces. the dust cover etc bolts on fine..

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#19 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 21 October 2006 - 08:45 PM

Anyone know where I can get the backing plates modified so that the caliper can be mounted in front of the axle like toddy has done.

Andy

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#20 _2wild4u_

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Posted 23 October 2006 - 08:51 PM

you just swap the backing plates from left to right, thats all i did
Posted Image

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#21 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 24 October 2006 - 02:06 AM

How did you get the handbrake cable to fit? I would have thought the caliper would be in the way.

A photo would be appreciated.

Andy

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#22 _TOBES_

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Posted 27 October 2006 - 08:07 PM

As you csn see from the above photo the cable passes the caliper just below the piston. It needs to sit out about 15mm further than stock which will change the angle of the cable to the lever and reduce the travel slightly. There should still be enough to operate the handbrake. A custom bracket is required.
I am fitting up a VN setup now and plan to mount the new bracket using the bottom caliper bracket bolt and the bottom backing plate bolt.
Will see what I can do about a photo...