You hear all sorts of wild stories about what's best to use.... but which products really get the job done?
As far as the old acrylic paints go, is it best to wax, or polish?
Cleaners and Polishes
Started by
knoath
, Jun 14 2006 06:17 AM
11 replies to this topic
#1
knoath
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 06:17 AM
#2
MRLXSS
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 12:16 PM
Dick, the best polish i have used is Autogylm.... when i used it with a buff i couldnt believe the shine i got out of it!
Autoglym is pricey but is well worth it for the results!
Autoglym is pricey but is well worth it for the results!
#3
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 12:35 PM
Autoglym, Meguires and Mothers
#4
knoath
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 02:23 PM
Hmm, looks like I wasted my cash on Bowdens? I thought it was great when I first used it, but the last time I thought it wasn't too crash hot.... maybe the day to day punishment of being a daily driver is starting to take it's toll.
Noticed alot of swirl marks left in the black of the bonnet, and the rest seems dull, especially the flares.
Off to have a sook.
Noticed alot of swirl marks left in the black of the bonnet, and the rest seems dull, especially the flares.
Off to have a sook.
#5
_FCCOOL_
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 07:19 PM
At home I use diamond cut then polish but with the cars at work that are going in the showroom we use 3m foam pad glaze on a 3m soft waffle pad wich eliminates any swirls.
Swirls are circular scratches left by a buffing pad, do you mean like a circular wet looking spot around dull spots, if so you might need to re apply it a few times or buff it first, this is common on acrylic, also use a maguires polish applicator pad (about $4 for 2) a common polish is Auto glym radiant wax and its been tried and trusted by the industry for years, most professional detailing suppliers sell there own cheaper version of it, some are more or less oily and others are more or less powdery as users always seem to complain that they are either to powdery, not effective or to hard to remove so they do the best to make a balance.
Remove your polish with soft cheese cloth, especailly on black, you can get a life time supply on a roll for about $40 from a detailing supplier, we also give our cars a final wipe with meguires final inspection and cheesecloth, it sems to give it a final even glaze, removes any powder and its when you do this that you find all the little missed spots before someone else does.
Swirls are circular scratches left by a buffing pad, do you mean like a circular wet looking spot around dull spots, if so you might need to re apply it a few times or buff it first, this is common on acrylic, also use a maguires polish applicator pad (about $4 for 2) a common polish is Auto glym radiant wax and its been tried and trusted by the industry for years, most professional detailing suppliers sell there own cheaper version of it, some are more or less oily and others are more or less powdery as users always seem to complain that they are either to powdery, not effective or to hard to remove so they do the best to make a balance.
Remove your polish with soft cheese cloth, especailly on black, you can get a life time supply on a roll for about $40 from a detailing supplier, we also give our cars a final wipe with meguires final inspection and cheesecloth, it sems to give it a final even glaze, removes any powder and its when you do this that you find all the little missed spots before someone else does.
#6
_LoneOranger_
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Posted 14 June 2006 - 09:35 PM
Hi Knoath,
I have a black car, and when I first used Bowdens, I had all sorts of problems.
Looked great in the shade, but very cloudy in the sunlight.
I spoke to Dan Bowden about it and he arranged for one of their chemists to look at the car when he was in Sydney.
He was great, He spent about 3 hours with the car and finally determined that the paint was too clean for polish.
The easy fix he came up with, and perhaps this may work for you. I now use a damp Bowdens applicator pad and 1/4 as much polish as before, I apply it and as it's drying, I buff it off with a microfine cloth.
It leaves the the paint spotless and deep in appearence.
Cutting through all the above crap, You may be using too much and letting it dry before you buff it off.
Bowdens are keen to speak to anyone who is not happy with their products, So maybe e-mail them.
Regards, John.
I have a black car, and when I first used Bowdens, I had all sorts of problems.
Looked great in the shade, but very cloudy in the sunlight.
I spoke to Dan Bowden about it and he arranged for one of their chemists to look at the car when he was in Sydney.
He was great, He spent about 3 hours with the car and finally determined that the paint was too clean for polish.
The easy fix he came up with, and perhaps this may work for you. I now use a damp Bowdens applicator pad and 1/4 as much polish as before, I apply it and as it's drying, I buff it off with a microfine cloth.
It leaves the the paint spotless and deep in appearence.
Cutting through all the above crap, You may be using too much and letting it dry before you buff it off.
Bowdens are keen to speak to anyone who is not happy with their products, So maybe e-mail them.
Regards, John.
#7
_big chris_
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 06:32 PM
Hey all,
We use a combination of products at work,
3M for cutting - buffing, and lambs wool buffing pads on the electric buff,
and either Bowdens or Meguirs as a hand polish for finishing.
Also have a look for swirl remover,
not sure of the proper names for each brand,
I think most brand carry a type of it.
Will help if the paint has had a harsh buffing compound used on it.
A good point with all cutting buffing and polishing products,
Less is more.
Use a small amount and add more if needed,
if you start with a lot, only clogs the buff pad or polishing cloth.
Cheers
Chris.
We use a combination of products at work,
3M for cutting - buffing, and lambs wool buffing pads on the electric buff,
and either Bowdens or Meguirs as a hand polish for finishing.
Also have a look for swirl remover,
not sure of the proper names for each brand,
I think most brand carry a type of it.
Will help if the paint has had a harsh buffing compound used on it.
A good point with all cutting buffing and polishing products,
Less is more.
Use a small amount and add more if needed,
if you start with a lot, only clogs the buff pad or polishing cloth.
Cheers
Chris.
Edited by big chris, 30 June 2006 - 06:33 PM.
#8
_Pete_
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 06:57 PM
On acrylics i like to start with regular old septone "Mr Buff" style green compound then work my way through the meguires range of fine cut cleaners etc through to wet look polish then final inspection.
On 2K i like Farecla G3 compound then also favour the meguires fine cut cleaner to eliminate swirl marks using a waffle style buff pad with a lighter touch and higher speed, i do like the meguires range and tend to favour them but i also dig the mothers california gold range too for waxes and showtime detailers.
For general maintenance I do like using Meguires wetlook and also there liquid wax, I also favour cheesecloth to apply and a microfibre cloth to remove with.
I never thought a microfibre cloth would be any good compared to cheesecloth but now i'm convinced they are indeed miles ahead of regular cheescloth particularly on darker colours.
It will come down to personal preference on what brand you find better.
On 2K i like Farecla G3 compound then also favour the meguires fine cut cleaner to eliminate swirl marks using a waffle style buff pad with a lighter touch and higher speed, i do like the meguires range and tend to favour them but i also dig the mothers california gold range too for waxes and showtime detailers.
For general maintenance I do like using Meguires wetlook and also there liquid wax, I also favour cheesecloth to apply and a microfibre cloth to remove with.
I never thought a microfibre cloth would be any good compared to cheesecloth but now i'm convinced they are indeed miles ahead of regular cheescloth particularly on darker colours.
It will come down to personal preference on what brand you find better.
#9
knoath
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 10:34 PM
Wow, once again, a wealth of info.... thanks peeps!
Off to the bank to get a loan for some good polish etc!
Thank you all!
Off to the bank to get a loan for some good polish etc!
Thank you all!
#10
_Eddie_
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 01:13 PM
I'm going to buff my car in 2 or 3 months time, what I'd like to do is open a thread in here somewhere and have everyone give their suggestions on how it's best to cut n polish freshly laid acrylic paint. I can write up a step by step process with pictures and what to do's and what not to do's. All everyone has to do is give their opinions on their preferred way and from there I can do a write up and carry it out a way which we all agree (or not) on.
Anyone interested?
Anyone interested?
#11
TORLX8
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Posted 10 July 2006 - 07:12 AM
I swear by Meguirs tech wax, applied with the foam applicator then removed with the microfibre cloth. Awesome on dark colours and disguises any fine scratches. Also use Meguirs final inspection to remove any water spots etc.
For best results I would reccommend cleaning all the old waxes, polishes and tar etc off with Prepsol or a similar wax & grease remover before applying the tech wax.
For best results I would reccommend cleaning all the old waxes, polishes and tar etc off with Prepsol or a similar wax & grease remover before applying the tech wax.
#12
_MYLJ_
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Posted 10 July 2006 - 11:24 AM
this is still my prefered methodOn acrylics i like to start with regular old septone "Mr Buff" style green compound then work my way through the meguires range of fine cut cleaners etc through to wet look polish then final inspection.
On 2K i like Farecla G3 compound then also favour the meguires fine cut cleaner to eliminate swirl marks using a waffle style buff pad with a lighter touch and higher speed, i do like the meguires range and tend to favour them but i also dig the mothers california gold range too for waxes and showtime detailers.
For general maintenance I do like using Meguires wetlook and also there liquid wax, I also favour cheesecloth to apply and a microfibre cloth to remove with.
It will come down to personal preference on what brand you find better.
been doing it this way for many years with excellent results, I've personnally done over 2000 cars this way 
so I can tell you it works
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