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rear quarters are fiber glass- what next :'(


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#1 _FERGnz_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 02:29 PM

got a whole afternoon off and seeming my diff is at the shop getting sorted i wanted to attack my rear end get some paint on it.

bumper off, lights out, fuel tank out and painted. looks ok.

have a go at the rust around the wheel arches........... long story short... f##ken rear quarters are fiber glass and thick filler.

feels like my heart has been riped out.

what should i do?

ild love to get the whole thing blasted and start again. but no idea who to see first. and this is the expensive way to go right?

and repair panels? rare spares the only ones?

this whole build is getting done in a single garage under my 2 bed room flat. but now it all feels like a waste







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#2 _FERGnz_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 02:32 PM

photos are abit big my bad.

the white spots you can see in the bottom, ended up being massive holes.

you can see how thick the filler at the edge of the paint is to. about 10mm

#3 76lxhatch

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 03:22 PM

Bugger.

Keep digging, blasting doesn't remove filler anyway and once you've removed it all you'll have a clearer idea of what you have and what to do next. Clean all the filler out and find where the good metal starts.

Although it seems a mess now and the bog won't have helped matters, its probably still fixable without too much hassle. I generally just start cutting then you have no choice but to sort it!

#4 Ice

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 03:51 PM

Time to weld some new panels in there i think can be fixed just time and money

#5 _FERGnz_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 03:53 PM

hey again 76lx

is all deep in the 1/4 panels, so a c#nt to get to inside the boot. ..... any tips.....

will stripper work?? at the moment im using a wire wheel on my drill and a fapping disk on my grinder. cant really get deep in the corners of the boot

#6 _Liam_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 04:10 PM

Bugger.

Keep digging, blasting doesn't remove filler anyway and once you've removed it all you'll have a clearer idea of what you have and what to do next. Clean all the filler out and find where the good metal starts.

Although it seems a mess now and the bog won't have helped matters, its probably still fixable without too much hassle. I generally just start cutting then you have no choice but to sort it!


Soda blasting doesn't, but I'm almost certain blasting with garnet does.

Wouldn't worry too much about the rear 1/4 they have replacement sections. As long as the inner skin isn't too bad (I had to make mine) it should be fine.

For big chunks of bog, use a big screwdriver and a hammer.

#7 _Emu_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 04:28 PM

For big chunks of bog, use a big screwdriver and a hammer.


+1
lol, done this a few times :(

#8 76lxhatch

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 04:53 PM

Yep just start hacking, any tool that does the job is the right tool ;-)

#9 torana_nick

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 05:26 PM

Good way to remove the bog is 36grit on a buffer/grinder best way to go right down to the metal and quick but go slow and steady keep the heat to a minimum.
Keep chipping away mate.

#10 _sjp67m_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 05:44 PM

Very light heat from Heat gum makes the bog come Off a lot easier but not sure if it's a good idea (I wasn't fussed as I was replacing the section the bog was being removed from !

#11 _FERGnz_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 05:50 PM

so to remove the fiber glass stuff from the inside of the boot? its like lining the 1/4's

does paint striper help? cant really get in there a

#12 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 05:55 PM

blasting doesn't remove filler anyway


Second time this has been said on the forum in a few days, by different people, i'd like to know where that info came from??

Cheers.

#13 torana_nick

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 06:19 PM

Bomber I've heard that a few times as well this week on the forum. I realt thought blasting removes everything depending on what you use?

#14 _Quagmire_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 06:22 PM

Second time this has been said on the forum in a few days, by different people, i'd like to know where that info came from??

Cheers.

probably referring to soda not sand/garnet
two different types of blasting whoever created this myth

Edited by Quagmire, 06 November 2012 - 06:22 PM.


#15 _Liam_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 06:43 PM

probably referring to soda not sand/garnet
two different types of blasting whoever created this myth


+1
What he said.

#16 76lxhatch

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:31 PM

Well not so much that sand blasting doesn't but generally if you sub it out they won't bother removing anything but paint since its more work

#17 _dirtbag_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:33 PM

I've found that sand/garnet blasting out bog heats up and distorts the panel too much, essentially ruining the panel. I strip bog with a 24 grit disc on a 2 speed sander/buffer and doesn't distort the panel. Everyone has their own way though : )

#18 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 07:56 PM

This is true ^.

Brand new grit helps, dont use any finer than 30/60. It will come off real quick.

But yes, really thick bog if you just hold it there and wait for it to blow through a section then move you will frOck thigns quickly.

Cheers.

#19 _Liam_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 08:40 PM

Really thick bog as I mentioned already, screwdriver and hammer. haha.

#20 _Quagmire_

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 09:58 PM

This is true ^.

Brand new grit helps, dont use any finer than 30/60. It will come off real quick.

But yes, really thick bog if you just hold it there and wait for it to blow through a section then move you will frOck thigns quickly.

Cheers.

your sposed to move it all the time and not stay in one spot anyway ...like spray painting
wet blasting is sposed to help with the heat but it's messy as and hard to find someone set up to do cars with
and you can hardly ever use the media again ...not that it's a good idea too anyway
if it where me i'd persist with the flap discs ....once you remove the outer layer the inner should fall on the floor in a big heap
otherwise give it a helping hand with a loooong screwdriver and a fbh
acetone might remove the fibre glass...but don't quote me as i have only used it on fresh fibre glass

#21 _FERGnz_

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 09:30 AM

im going to keep hitting it with the fapping disk. and try get the inside of the arches with some striper to see it that helps.

whens is just sitting as bare metal. should i put anything on it? dont want it rusting straight away again

any recommendations for places to get repair panels from??? im currently looking at aussie restos. anyone had them before???

#22 _sjp67m_

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 09:44 AM

Retro rods
07 4129 2569

Edited by sjp67m, 08 November 2012 - 09:45 AM.


#23 _FERGnz_

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 10:12 AM

retro rods? if its aussie ill need a email...... i am in NZ

#24 _sjp67m_

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 10:13 AM

Oh sorry I thought I were in Australia don't have an email but search them
In google or on Facebook retrorods sheetmetal

Edited by sjp67m, 08 November 2012 - 10:13 AM.


#25 Potta

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Posted 08 November 2012 - 11:17 AM

Don't give up bro, we all have those moments of "what the fr0ck have I gotten myself into", but just keep plodding along, one job at a time and you'll get there.

Before you know it it'll all be a distant memory and you'll be cruising around in your sweet hatch :driving:




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