Hi all...
I have a question..
What is the fair price to sandblast inside the boot area and the floor inside the car?
Ive been quoted $1000 to do it.. Me thinks this is tooo expensive.. Any thoughts?
And also
he wants $200 a door/bonnet/boot lid to dip in his alkaline bath.. Is this too expensive? seems to be for me?
So for me to pay someone to strip. its going to be $1800....Too dear, thats my whole interior!!!!!
anyone know of a reasonably priced place to take the shell/panels to get done in South Aus?
Mike
Fair price to sandblast
Started by
_mikecatts_
, Dec 05 2012 09:52 AM
26 replies to this topic
#2
sibhs
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:01 AM
Hi Mike,
love your rebuild, doing an awesome job.
Why don't you do it yourself? You're a man of many talents, why stop now. Spend about $300 on a blaster and grit and do it at your own pace knowing it's done properly. You will save heaps on blasting and no stress about moving the car and leaving it in someone elses hands.
I plan to build a free booth for my rebuild. I have sourced free materials and will knock it together next month.
Marty
love your rebuild, doing an awesome job.
Why don't you do it yourself? You're a man of many talents, why stop now. Spend about $300 on a blaster and grit and do it at your own pace knowing it's done properly. You will save heaps on blasting and no stress about moving the car and leaving it in someone elses hands.
I plan to build a free booth for my rebuild. I have sourced free materials and will knock it together next month.
Marty
#3
_mikecatts_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:09 AM
Hi Mike,
love your rebuild, doing an awesome job.
Why don't you do it yourself? You're a man of many talents, why stop now. Spend about $300 on a blaster and grit and do it at your own pace knowing it's done properly. You will save heaps on blasting and no stress about moving the car and leaving it in someone elses hands.
I plan to build a free booth for my rebuild. I have sourced free materials and will knock it together next month.
Marty
Hi Marty... I have been sanblasting myself.. I thought that paying someone would make it easier... But not at that price..
I do have a 40lt pot sanblaster... To tell you the truth.. Im over sandblasting, messy, shity job...
And using a tip per pot, not cheap either...
The floor is covered with tar, so I thought it would be better to get done profesionally.. The boot is ok, Just a prick of a job....
I really wanted to get ALL the paint off the doors/bonnet/boot lid... They have a large surface area.. I can paintstrip the outside, but how do u get the inside?
I hear what your saying about paying some one.. I thought posting here I might find some one who has used a decent blasterin Adelaide..
Mike
#4
_Quagmire_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:10 AM
yeah just do the boot/floors yourself..it's messy
and you will need a full face shield (20 bucks from bunnings)
and beg/borrow/steal/hire a decent air compressor...if you don't already have one
disregard...seeing as you already have one....
and you will need a full face shield (20 bucks from bunnings)
and beg/borrow/steal/hire a decent air compressor...if you don't already have one
disregard...seeing as you already have one....
Edited by Quagmire, 05 December 2012 - 10:11 AM.
#5
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:13 AM
paint stripping and wire wheels on a dremelHi Marty... I have been sanblasting myself.. I thought that paying someone would make it easier... But not at that price..
I do have a 40lt pot sanblaster... To tell you the truth.. Im over sandblasting, messy, shity job...
And using a tip per pot, not cheap either...
The floor is covered with tar, so I thought it would be better to get done profesionally.. The boot is ok, Just a prick of a job....
I really wanted to get ALL the paint off the doors/bonnet/boot lid... They have a large surface area.. I can paintstrip the outside, but how do u get the inside?
I hear what your saying about paying some one.. I thought posting here I might find some one who has used a decent blasterin Adelaide..
Mike
wrap the striper in glad wrap for it to work quicker and faster is what i've been told too
#6
_sjp67m_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:56 AM
I got quoted 2000 inside underneath and engine bay whole car !!!
#7
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 05:44 PM
Depends on what he is using, A lot of times on cars its soda blasting or lime blasting rather than sand. if its sand he will take longer doing it so the panels don't warp.
I don't think that price would be to far off the money look up yellow pages and ring another one up and ask for a rough price to compare it if you are worried.
As for doing it yourself.....It is very messy.
I don't think that price would be to far off the money look up yellow pages and ring another one up and ask for a rough price to compare it if you are worried.
As for doing it yourself.....It is very messy.
#8
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 06:09 PM
Most media blsters running Garnet charge between $350 and $500 an hour depending on the size of there system.
It would take an hour to an hour and a half to blast a complete car carefully, assuming theres not to much bog and only stock thickness body deadner, and you didnt want any of the seam sealer removed.
If i was to tentatively quote you an hour to blast the areas you mentioned, which would include setup (pushing the car in the hole, filling the hopper, pushing the car back out, etc) and i'd be able to run the blaster at full noise instead of having to cut it back in those areas, you would be looking at $350 for me to do it.
So yes, he is charging WAAAY to much.
Cheers.
It would take an hour to an hour and a half to blast a complete car carefully, assuming theres not to much bog and only stock thickness body deadner, and you didnt want any of the seam sealer removed.
If i was to tentatively quote you an hour to blast the areas you mentioned, which would include setup (pushing the car in the hole, filling the hopper, pushing the car back out, etc) and i'd be able to run the blaster at full noise instead of having to cut it back in those areas, you would be looking at $350 for me to do it.
So yes, he is charging WAAAY to much.
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 05 December 2012 - 06:12 PM.
#9
sibhs
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 06:44 PM
Hi Marty... I have been sanblasting myself.. I thought that paying someone would make it easier... But not at that price..
I do have a 40lt pot sanblaster... To tell you the truth.. Im over sandblasting, messy, shity job...
And using a tip per pot, not cheap either...
The floor is covered with tar, so I thought it would be better to get done profesionally.. The boot is ok, Just a prick of a job....
I really wanted to get ALL the paint off the doors/bonnet/boot lid... They have a large surface area.. I can paintstrip the outside, but how do u get the inside?
I hear what your saying about paying some one.. I thought posting here I might find some one who has used a decent blasterin Adelaide..
Mike
Hi Mike,
sounds like you've had enough? (I don't blame you, you've been working hard for ages)
I think you need a break to recharge the batteries, relax for a couple of weeks, get in the Christmas spirit then check out some finished Torana's and get motivated again.
Marty
#10
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 06:58 PM
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
what he said
what he said
#11
_ryan350_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:17 PM
Dam seeing the prices you guys got quoted make the price i got mine done at a steal! I took my bare shell on a rotisery ie no bolt ons on a friday night and picked it up saturday afternoon and paid $600, for this i got the inside and out completely blasted and he even gave us a hand unloading and loading the car! Also must say he done a great job and did not warp any of the panels!
#12
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:28 PM
I got quoted 2000 inside underneath and engine bay whole car !!!
Just checked my quote that was for sandblasting inside wheel Arches and underneath and soda blasting the rest !
#13
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:34 PM
Therein lays your issue.
I dislike soda and would prefer to blast the areas im comfortable doing (door jams floors inside boot around the inside of the roof supports dash engine bay entire underside of car and the like) and strip the rest with a sander.....
Ryan, your quote sounds about bang on mate.
Cheers.
I dislike soda and would prefer to blast the areas im comfortable doing (door jams floors inside boot around the inside of the roof supports dash engine bay entire underside of car and the like) and strip the rest with a sander.....
Ryan, your quote sounds about bang on mate.
Cheers.
#14
_mikecatts_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:43 PM
Hi all... Thanks for ALL the replies... Bomber says it about right.. I will pay $600-700 to get blasted and the dipping done.. But not $1800... I didnt even mention it was an XU-1.. I reacon if I did, double it...
It was going to be deliverd on a trolley that can be raised and lowered to make it easier for them... Even offered the rotisserie.. Cars all stripped, just get into blasting..
Ryan.. seems your price is a bargain..
Marty.. I cant relax... Need this car done, done ,done... I have 3 toranas waiting for me to weld up for them.. I only want to one car at a time to do.. Ide like MINE done first. I though that leaving the floor and boot till last was the go.. I should of done it first while I was keen about blasting.....
Ta for the advice AL.. I wont use a wire wheel as it does heat up the metal and I have prepped underneath already so I wont a "gentle" way.. Sanblasting doesnt heat the metal..... And getting in the nooks and crannys..The blaster is the only thing..
Looks like Im going to paint strip/sanblast the floor ( this is the worst of the worst jobs, give me a car to weld up/ fabricate any day
), sandblast the dash area, Sanblast boot area.
408 then colour.. Satin blue/black.. See you guys in 2 weeks me thinks..
It was going to be deliverd on a trolley that can be raised and lowered to make it easier for them... Even offered the rotisserie.. Cars all stripped, just get into blasting..
Ryan.. seems your price is a bargain..
Marty.. I cant relax... Need this car done, done ,done... I have 3 toranas waiting for me to weld up for them.. I only want to one car at a time to do.. Ide like MINE done first. I though that leaving the floor and boot till last was the go.. I should of done it first while I was keen about blasting.....
Ta for the advice AL.. I wont use a wire wheel as it does heat up the metal and I have prepped underneath already so I wont a "gentle" way.. Sanblasting doesnt heat the metal..... And getting in the nooks and crannys..The blaster is the only thing..
Looks like Im going to paint strip/sanblast the floor ( this is the worst of the worst jobs, give me a car to weld up/ fabricate any day
), sandblast the dash area, Sanblast boot area.408 then colour.. Satin blue/black.. See you guys in 2 weeks me thinks..
#15
_mikecatts_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:47 PM
Therein lays your issue.
I dislike soda and would prefer to blast the areas im comfortable doing (door jams floors inside boot around the inside of the roof supports dash engine bay entire underside of car and the like) and strip the rest with a sander.....
Ryan, your quote sounds about bang on mate.
Cheers.
DJ.. I was using 36 flappy pads and it was a bit aggressive for me.. Ive changed to 60 grit flappys and its better.. I only use the flappys after I have paint stripped just to clean.. Is that correct?
Dj.. Can I use 408 as my undercoat if I paint the inside boot, under car, inside wheel arches, floor and engine bay?
Im going to get some blue black satin?
#16
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:48 PM
sanblasting doesnt heat the metal.....
Yeah it does.........But a competent operator on something with lots of curves like your undercarriage wont heat the metal at all yet alone to the point of warping.
Just so i dont sound like im pulling shit out of my ass i blast the floor/jams/certain parts of the roof/etc on truck cabs frequently when im about to start rust repairs on one.....I've only got a baby system, 200CFM compressor, 250kg hopper with 1" lines and a 5/16" nozzle, but i never actually cut it back doing this kinda stuff.
Blasted the engine bay of a mates LJ not to long ago, very rough, been painted a million times, i cut the blaster back to about 3/4 power and went rank, took 10 minutes and thats a very hard to do one, the average would take 5. Its coming back to get the rest done soon then i get to start on another mates LJ.....hehehehe.
Cheers.
#17
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:55 PM
hardest part is getting someone that is not a cowboy and can sandblast it properly without destroying it! Like said old mate done the roof, under the dash ect.... We have a soda blaster down the road but there is too much prep involved after having it done. All we done was roll the car over for a while while blowing all the knooks and crannys out with the air blower then hitting it with a vaccumm cleaner, while i was doing that my panel beater hit it with some 320 on the 1/4s ect... then just prepsol and epoxy! was hard paying $500 odd for the epoxy though haha! Also Bomber that engine gets started either this week or next week mate! will have to post a build up of it when the engine builder starts sending me pics!
#18
_mikecatts_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:59 PM
Yeah it does.........But a competent operator on something with lots of curves like your undercarriage wont heat the metal at all yet alone to the point of warping.
Just so i dont sound like im pulling shit out of my ass i blast the floor/jams/certain parts of the roof/etc on truck cabs frequently when im about to start rust repairs on one.....I've only got a baby system, 200CFM compressor, 250kg hopper with 1" lines and a 5/16" nozzle, but i never actually cut it back doing this kinda stuff.
Blasted the engine bay of a mates LJ not to long ago, very rough, been painted a million times, i cut the blaster back to about 3/4 power and went rank, took 10 minutes and thats a very hard to do one, the average would take 5. Its coming back to get the rest done soon then i get to start on another mates LJ.....hehehehe.
Cheers.
Your a lucky man.. Ill pull my car apart and send it a bit ata time in the post. You can blast and send back LOL
My little pot takes a while.. It took all day to sanblast the engine bay.. 10 mins..I wish..
#19
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:59 PM
DJ.. I was using 36 flappy pads and it was a bit aggressive for me.. Ive changed to 60 grit flappys and its better.. I only use the flappys after I have paint stripped just to clean.. Is that correct?
Dj.. Can I use 408 as my undercoat if I paint the inside boot, under car, inside wheel arches, floor and engine bay?
Im going to get some blue black satin?
And to answer this, I find 60's gall up to quick, if your not having this issue than stick with them. I've had plenty of luck with 36 but you need to be carefull to be sure to be sure. As soon as you see metal come through move on and dont go back, use a finer grit to get the rest of the way.
But, i use them to take the lot off. Your paint stripping. In this case i would certainly not look at 36 and go straight to 60. Realistically 80 or 120 on a 6" random would be a better choice though in your situation.
Not a fan of flappy disks, prefer just a straight fibrelight disk and backing pad on the 7" for taking shit off fast, 5" will do if you dont have a 7" but its no where near as good.
And for the second, yeah that will be fine. You "can" go over the 408 wet on wet to save a frOckload off work, its not recommended by Protec but i've done it a million times. EX-428 is a product that IS recommended by protec to be used wet on wet with a variety of top coats, basically the same thing, mainly 625 and 609 but i see no reason you couldnt use 604 over it wet on wet. To get a satin your going to need to go to 604, which is a bit more expensive, and not sure if they will tint it for you....But ask. Your in Adelaide so go straight to the factory and if you have any issues give me a yell i'll get onto some lads and try to sort something out for you through the reps.
I've never tried tinting 604 satin black but i cant see why a little bit of green/blue 604 tinter would affect the sheen. One thing i will guarantee is that it will be guesswork as no one else will have asked for it and unless your willing to spend a fortune or can prove theres a massive market for it then there not going to spend weeks mixing different lots and testing them to get just the color you want, which is fair enough IMO.
And come to think of it, i have some 604 satin black sitting in the cupboard at work.....Its quiet atm so i might have some time to have a bit of a mess around with some tinters, but not this week as i've got dental shit that needs to be sorted out, sigh. I thought the GMH black was more greenish than bluish? Didnt they just tip the left over colors from the day into the big pot of black so it varied a fair bit? And from my experience when you tip a lot of dregs into one tin it ends up greenish....
Cheers.
#20
_mikecatts_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 08:01 PM
hardest part is getting someone that is not a cowboy and can sandblast it properly without destroying it! Like said old mate done the roof, under the dash ect.... We have a soda blaster down the road but there is too much prep involved after having it done. All we done was roll the car over for a while while blowing all the knooks and crannys out with the air blower then hitting it with a vaccumm cleaner, while i was doing that my panel beater hit it with some 320 on the 1/4s ect... then just prepsol and epoxy! was hard paying $500 odd for the epoxy though haha! Also Bomber that engine gets started either this week or next week mate! will have to post a build up of it when the engine builder starts sending me pics!
$500 for epoxy???? $litre with 1 litre hardner is under $100 here in SA... Doesnt make sense..You paid a good price for blastng, then get stung with epoxy paint...Strange???
#21
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 08:04 PM
I assume thats plus labor to buzz the panels, prepsol and spray?
#22
_mikecatts_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 08:18 PM
Not a fan of flappy disks, prefer just a straight fibrelight disk and backing pad on the 7" for taking shit off fast, 5" will do if you dont have a 7" but its no where near as good.
Im using a 4"
And for the second, yeah that will be fine. You "can" go over the 408 wet on wet to save a frOckload off work, its not recommended by Protec but i've done it a million times. EX-428 is a product that IS recommended by protec to be used wet on wet with a variety of top coats, basically the same thing, mainly 625 and 609 but i see no reason you couldnt use 604 over it wet on wet. To get a satin your going to need to go to 604, which is a bit more expensive, and not sure if they will tint it for you....But ask. Your in Adelaide so go straight to the factory and if you have any issues give me a yell i'll get onto some lads and try to sort something out for you through the reps.
"You lost me a bit.. Im wanting to go over the 408 with clour? I dont mn if i have to rub back first.. We have a mob here called paint supplies, they are good and rightly priced. Cant I get a SATIN hardner??? I used to when painting model plains. John Gone says 60% satin? How do I work that out?"
And come to think of it, i have some 604 satin black sitting in the cupboard at work.....Its quiet atm so i might have some time to have a bit of a mess around with some tinters, but not this week as i've got dental shit that needs to be sorted out, sigh. I thought the GMH black was more greenish than bluish? Didnt they just tip the left over colors from the day into the big pot of black so it varied a fair bit? And from my experience when you tip a lot of dregs into one tin it ends up greenish....
You are correct on that..they did..Ive been told just to add a little white to get the colour..Each car IS diffenernt in blue black..I have 3 LC's here and they ALL are different.. DJ..does the LC XU-1 have the enging bay painted BLACK as to blue black???
Im using a 4"
And for the second, yeah that will be fine. You "can" go over the 408 wet on wet to save a frOckload off work, its not recommended by Protec but i've done it a million times. EX-428 is a product that IS recommended by protec to be used wet on wet with a variety of top coats, basically the same thing, mainly 625 and 609 but i see no reason you couldnt use 604 over it wet on wet. To get a satin your going to need to go to 604, which is a bit more expensive, and not sure if they will tint it for you....But ask. Your in Adelaide so go straight to the factory and if you have any issues give me a yell i'll get onto some lads and try to sort something out for you through the reps.
"You lost me a bit.. Im wanting to go over the 408 with clour? I dont mn if i have to rub back first.. We have a mob here called paint supplies, they are good and rightly priced. Cant I get a SATIN hardner??? I used to when painting model plains. John Gone says 60% satin? How do I work that out?"
And come to think of it, i have some 604 satin black sitting in the cupboard at work.....Its quiet atm so i might have some time to have a bit of a mess around with some tinters, but not this week as i've got dental shit that needs to be sorted out, sigh. I thought the GMH black was more greenish than bluish? Didnt they just tip the left over colors from the day into the big pot of black so it varied a fair bit? And from my experience when you tip a lot of dregs into one tin it ends up greenish....
You are correct on that..they did..Ive been told just to add a little white to get the colour..Each car IS diffenernt in blue black..I have 3 LC's here and they ALL are different.. DJ..does the LC XU-1 have the enging bay painted BLACK as to blue black???
I didnt think the blasters "buzzed" the panels.. Just prepsoled and sprayed??I assume thats plus labor to buzz the panels, prepsol and spray?
#23
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 09:13 PM
while i was doing that my panel beater hit it with some 320 on the 1/4s ect...
Guessing he would have used a 6" random to "hit it", ie buzzed hehe.
You shouldnt just prepsol over a freshly blasted surface, the pits not only tear lint off the rags at a phenomenal rate that are impossible to get off but the prepsol sits in the little cavities....Just hit it with the air blower and paint, so long as your grit is oil free, ie you degrease stuff before you blast it.
$500 to epoxy a whole car is pretty fair i think, time to orby it including shop air (running the compressor) disks (about 40 cents a pop need about 20), prepsol it, costs to run the booth, labor to apply the paint over the whole car (an hour at least) mix up clean up time thinners prepsol filters masking tape etc etc etc all comes in.
Keep in mind my rough costing above is just to blast something, if you wished me to prime it as well it would go up significantly as i factor in all this stuff.
Now, back to the other stuff, a 4", i feel direly sorry for you. Use what works but i seriously recommend investing in a 6" orbital palm sander. I use "ultimate" brand items, generally i shy away from any brand thats named as such but my home one has managed to sand several cars, bikes, odd jobs and half of the inside of my house without even being oiled and my work one has done 1000 times that work without even looking like failing....There about $250, if your only doing one car some cheaper ones are available, or look at a 240v one available from bunnigns for about $50 or so......But i hate electric ones cause they get hot!!! You may not abuse the tool as much as i do, i like to have gear that works as fast as i do.
Now, where i lost you, sorry bout that. 625 and 609 are color. 604 is as well. Wet on wet is a process where you prime something then half hour to an hour later hit it with top coat. Basically thats how i do everything at work, prime with an epoxy, wait half hour, top coat with a polyurethane. for really big stuff or lots of stuff obviously the time between priming and top coating is stretched a bit but i try to plan jobs so i can prime and top coat them the same day, saves sanding, and when your talking about a drill rig or a truck chassis thats a frOcking lot of sanding, a frOcking lot of consumables and a frOcking lot of labor. Plus it just seems to work better. Stick better, maybe? Personally i would aim to do the areas you mentioned you wish to do in the satin color in this method, but if your keen to sit down and sand all that intricate shit then feel free lol.
Satin hardener i havnt personally seen or heard of, are you sure the stuff you were using for model planes wasnt single pack and you were adding a flattening base? Generally you can only get hardeners that are "speed" rated, fast, normal, slow, just how quick the paint sets, hotter you use slower colder you use faster bigger you use slower smaller you use faster is the basic run around them.
And 60% satin, are you sure thats not 60% gloss which is about satin? Im really not right into concourse stuff.....From memory some of the good ones i've seen have been a bit glossyer than usual satin so you might be onto something, this would come from just mixing a bit of gloss black into the satin black....Easy peasy.
And re the third one, again im not right up there with resto's so not entirely sure if the bay was done in an actual satin black or if it was done in the same stuff the undercarrage boot etc was done in. I do know they were all a satin black up untill 75-76ish??
Cheers.
#24
_shan620_
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 11:44 PM
I've been quoted between $400-$800 to garnet blast complete car on rotisserie inside and out, plus doors,boot and bonnet. But that's in Tamworth. It sounds too cheap, but that's why I got him to write it down for me. Lol. That was through north west powder works.
#25
_ryan350_
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Posted 06 December 2012 - 04:29 AM
$500 for epoxy???? $litre with 1 litre hardner is under $100 here in SA... Doesnt make sense..You paid a good price for blastng, then get stung with epoxy paint...Strange???
Mike that was for a 5l kit and it was glasurit (hense the big $$$) . We spoke about using cheaper stuff but after speaking to blokes that do this sort of work ie show cars ect... it was decided not to cheap out and stick with the one brand from start to finish. Like you say the cheaper stuff would have been fine but after the advice i got i could not use the cheaper stuff! Pretty much just being anal about it haha!
Mike that was for a 5l kit and it was glasurit (hense the big $$$) . We spoke about using cheaper stuff but after speaking to blokes that do this sort of work ie show cars ect... it was decided not to cheap out and stick with the one brand from start to finish. Like you say the cheaper stuff would have been fine but after the advice i got i could not use the cheaper stuff! Pretty much just being anal about it haha!
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