pre sure the helix is cut on the opisite direction on the tko cog as well as on us mustang t5 cogs. as is c4, c6, fmx.
toploader or aus t5 cogs will be right. on alot of american boxs the speedo is on "our" passenger side and aussi t5s are on the drivers side. just make sure when u buy the helix on the gear goes the same way yours dose now.
Help needed with speedo cable drive
Started by
Marks LXTorana
, Jan 03 2013 04:29 PM
49 replies to this topic
#27
_nemo355v8_
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Posted 24 January 2013 - 09:05 PM
yep ust checked that they are oposite, the EA and on ones I put up will work. I used 1 on my cable for my T5 straight off the sensor
#28
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Posted 24 January 2013 - 09:32 PM
from my experience with a T5 and a 3.00 9 inch 5th is way to high unless your cruising at 130-40 and isnt very usable.
3.25 or 3.5 would be much better suited.
Best bet is to buy a new ring gear/pinion gear set and have them put into your diff center. $350 for new gear set and maybe arond $200 to have it fitted
3.25 or 3.5 would be much better suited.
Best bet is to buy a new ring gear/pinion gear set and have them put into your diff center. $350 for new gear set and maybe arond $200 to have it fitted
#30
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Posted 25 January 2013 - 01:56 PM
The rears are 265/50-15 so they are a large diameter. Now that I know I am running a 4.11 diff, I now tend to agree the 3.00 would be too low, particularly with an overdrive (which will multiply the effect the faster I go).
I found someone selling a 3.25 in Western Sydney but they haven't responded to an email. I will need to give them a call.
If the cost of installing a new ring gear/pinion is $500-$600 I might consider that. I have been reading everyone complaining about having no change out of $1k.
I found someone selling a 3.25 in Western Sydney but they haven't responded to an email. I will need to give them a call.
If the cost of installing a new ring gear/pinion is $500-$600 I might consider that. I have been reading everyone complaining about having no change out of $1k.
#31
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Posted 26 January 2013 - 01:59 AM
bro that seems like alot to me as i build my own diffs, its not hard. if ur handy with tools u may wnt to have a go your self. plenty of info on google, build it yourself for free. worst that can realy happens is it wines a bit, most non genuine gearsets do that anyway.
#32
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Posted 27 January 2013 - 06:13 PM
Hey I'm married so I am familiar with a bit of whining! But seriously, as a Fitter and Engineer I would like to consider myself up for the challenge if you reckon it isn't too hard. My main concern has been the need for a press and the final alignment/backlash adjustment.
Also I pulled an axle out yesterday and counted 28 splines. I initially thought I had a leacking rear brake cylinder but now know it is the axle seal. Again, an easy enough job to replace bearing and seal but with the press I am not sure I want to try it.
Also I pulled an axle out yesterday and counted 28 splines. I initially thought I had a leacking rear brake cylinder but now know it is the axle seal. Again, an easy enough job to replace bearing and seal but with the press I am not sure I want to try it.
#33
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Posted 27 January 2013 - 10:33 PM
bro there would have to be at least 10,00,000 posts on google about assembleing diffs. a press while very handy is not rerally needed. it can be done by hand. im sure u would have access to a dial indicator and some bearing blue. but seriousely ive ripped apart so many diffs and put them back together i just do them by feel most of the time and havent had a failure due to the assembley.
oh neither have i had a winey diff either.
as for the axle bearing yeah u need a press.
oh neither have i had a winey diff either.
as for the axle bearing yeah u need a press.
#34
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Posted 08 February 2013 - 10:22 PM
Im running 275/40/17s on the rear
#35
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Posted 08 February 2013 - 10:30 PM
Nope axle bearing and collar can be installed with a heavy long pipe that is larger in diameter than the axle and a good fit to stirke the the inner race of the bearing and use it as a slide hammer down the axle, even more money savedbro there would have to be at least 10,00,000 posts on google about assembleing diffs. a press while very handy is not rerally needed. it can be done by hand. im sure u would have access to a dial indicator and some bearing blue. but seriousely ive ripped apart so many diffs and put them back together i just do them by feel most of the time and havent had a failure due to the assembley.
oh neither have i had a winey diff either.
as for the axle bearing yeah u need a press.
#37
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Posted 11 February 2013 - 09:36 AM
Actually getting the bearing off is pretty simple - either heat it up and knock it out or just cut through it it with a cutting wheel. I could probably find some pipe to use to put the new bearing back on. I have put the axle back in after cleaning up the seal and mating surfaces. I can leave it for the present time until i make up my mind. I went for a cruise on Sunday morning and there was no sign of leaking diff oil when I got back.
If I rebuild my diff with new ring and pinion gears, I am still stuck with a locked diff (I think it must have a spool) and I would prefer a standard LSD. I have not been able to find anyone that has posted the process for converting between LSD to a mini or full spool?? From what I can tell, all the clutch plates and LSD inners are removed when converting to a spool, which then essentially locks the two axles. I am thinking of grabbing an open diff for cruising (3.00) and keeping my 4.11 for any drag days that might happen.
If I rebuild my diff with new ring and pinion gears, I am still stuck with a locked diff (I think it must have a spool) and I would prefer a standard LSD. I have not been able to find anyone that has posted the process for converting between LSD to a mini or full spool?? From what I can tell, all the clutch plates and LSD inners are removed when converting to a spool, which then essentially locks the two axles. I am thinking of grabbing an open diff for cruising (3.00) and keeping my 4.11 for any drag days that might happen.
#38
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Posted 11 February 2013 - 09:45 AM
Actually just to clarify my own understanding - Either you can have an LSD centre or you can convert an open diff via a mini or full spool? Therefore you cannot change from a spooled diff to LSD. Correct?
#39
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Posted 12 February 2013 - 09:27 AM
yes you have to change the whole hemisphere. u cant make an open into a limo but you can make an open into a mini spooled. u cant make either into a full spool. and i dont belive you can put a spool in a limo either. check out www.summitracing.com and look at the eaton tru trac's. there only about $450us plus about 80? freight. they act like an open while general driveing around but like a detriot locker when under full load.
#40
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Posted 12 February 2013 - 09:30 AM
oh and btw, 9" lsd factory type are crap. one good power skid and they screw the clutch plates.
#41
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Posted 12 February 2013 - 11:31 AM
Thanks, I was thinking it is a risk buying a 2nd hand LSD due to the wear factor on clutch plates.
#42
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Posted 16 February 2013 - 08:37 PM
I just cut through the collar and bearing around 3/4 or the way through then drive a cold chisle into th cut, they will either expand enough to slide off or rack open and come off. Just using a cold chisle in 3 to 4 places around the collar makes them loose enough to slide off
#43
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Posted 17 February 2013 - 08:24 AM
Thanks PinkLX, you were correct, assembling the diff is easy! The diff has no wear on the teeth and the backlash was perfect so I marked the adjuster wheels before I pulled it down, to guide me when putting it back together.
I bought what I think is an open 2.75 diff, to experiment with (I will go for a before/after drive and record the rpm change at 100km/h). I pulled out the ring gear and I have not been able to turn the spider gears whilst assembled even after giving it a good clean and light oil. I noticed there is a square "block" between the spider gears. Is this normal or another "locker" set up? I will post some photos soon.
I bought what I think is an open 2.75 diff, to experiment with (I will go for a before/after drive and record the rpm change at 100km/h). I pulled out the ring gear and I have not been able to turn the spider gears whilst assembled even after giving it a good clean and light oil. I noticed there is a square "block" between the spider gears. Is this normal or another "locker" set up? I will post some photos soon.
#44
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Posted 17 February 2013 - 09:43 AM
OK, so I went for a drive and using the GPS I set a baseline RPM:
80km/h 4300 in 4th, 3300 in 5th
100km/h 5100 in 4th, 4000 in 5th
110km/h 5600 in 4th, 4200 in 5th.
With a warm V8 I am hoping to cruise at 110km/h at around 2800rpm. It may be below the peak HP and torque curve but I dont want to be driving a race car, and I can always drop backa gear or two if I need to overtake.
Also, a photo of the spider gears with the "block" as I mentioned in the previous post
80km/h 4300 in 4th, 3300 in 5th
100km/h 5100 in 4th, 4000 in 5th
110km/h 5600 in 4th, 4200 in 5th.
With a warm V8 I am hoping to cruise at 110km/h at around 2800rpm. It may be below the peak HP and torque curve but I dont want to be driving a race car, and I can always drop backa gear or two if I need to overtake.
Also, a photo of the spider gears with the "block" as I mentioned in the previous post
#45
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Posted 17 February 2013 - 09:51 AM
OK, strike that, it seems there are multiple assemblies, including one with the block inside the spider gears (refer to the top section of the diagram). Just shows how much experience I have with diffs 
Edited by Marks LXTorana, 17 February 2013 - 09:52 AM.
#46
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Posted 17 February 2013 - 12:10 PM
bro there's so many variations with 9" diffs it gets confuseing. that top one with the block is a 4 pin open and the bottom is a 2 pin open. they all go together the same way tho after the hemisphere is together. thats alot of revs on the hyw. i would deffinately be putting taller gears in if u plan to drive it.
#47
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Posted 17 February 2013 - 07:44 PM
Question; what is everyone's secret to lifting the diff up and back into the housing?? Even if I could bench press 200kg, there isn't a lot of room with the car on jack stands so I am working with my arms above my head. I have tried the hydraulic jack a few times but the diff has rolled off because it is hard to balance it, position it and raise/lower all at the same time. 
There was an old unused exhaust bracket the diff was fouling on so I have cut that off and it started getting late. Hopefully tomorrow evening it will all just slip in.
The uni-coupling (part 4851 above) is about 15mm longer than mine so I want to test fit the diff to see if the tailshaft has enough movement, or else I need to swap them over.
Edited by Marks LXTorana, 17 February 2013 - 07:45 PM.
#48
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Posted 18 February 2013 - 06:39 AM
there was a mob makeing a special bracket for 9" centers on trolly jacks for a while. i normaly just either pull the whole diff out to work on it or dial a freind.
btw, there is two differant yoke lengths and 4 differant uni sizes that are common. theres probly even more than that.
#49
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Posted 03 March 2013 - 02:39 PM
Well, lots of fun and games yesterday but with a good outcome. I had put the 2.75 diff centre in the car and could not get the left axle in all the way, so out it came. I took the hemisphere out to see what was interfering but no luck. So I though I would throw in my hemisphere, if I change over the ring gear. Little did I know it has smaller diameter bearings for the hemisphere, and the ring gear is thinner in design. Also, it looks like it has been sitting in one position for years without moving because the outer cup for the bearings had severe pitting in one spot. My original plans to use the diff as-is was unfortunately a dream.
So I stripped both diffs, and used the 2.75 ring gear and pinion assembly in my diff housing with my other internals. With a thinner ring gear it meant starting from scratch to adjust the backlash out of the diff although with a bit of patience it paid off (thanks PinkLX for the encouragement!).
I was going to compare the speeds/rpm although the GPS is flatand a new tacho takes the place of my ciggy lighter. I can tell straight away the speedo is much closer, reading about 10kph under, instead of a lot over. The engine is purring in 5th at 100kph and has plenty of pull to overtake, although I can drop it back to 4th or even 3rd if I really want to get up it.
The best part is, I get home and there are no leaks to be found, and the diff is super quiet!
Edited by Marks LXTorana, 03 March 2013 - 02:41 PM.
#50
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Posted 04 March 2013 - 06:54 AM
yes as far as i remember there is 3 differant hemispehere bearing outer diameters. i believe they all use the same inner diameter and then there are two differant widths. thing is that all hemispheres are interchangeable as long as u use the right bearing for the carrier. also when trying to run low gears (4.11) in a tall diff carrier alot of the time u have to clearance grind the rear pinion bearing boss for clearance and sometimes the houseing too. low gears are wider and bigger in diameter.
as i said setting up diff centers isnt rocket sience and after you done one you wonder why u ever bothered worrieing in the first place. glad it worked out for you bro and saved some coin while you were at it. now you just have to play with the speedo driven gear teeth count to get the speedo spot on.
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