Instructions for pacemaker, but should be same; http://www.pacemaker.....F/PH 5200.pdf
as for lights, take a length of FUSED wire straight from the battery and apply it to the fuse in the fuse holder and check if they work. keep going till you find the fault. as above, sounds like a missing power supply.
BLUE 253 into LH
Started by
_oikurtman_
, Jun 21 2006 02:16 PM
46 replies to this topic
#26
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:35 PM
#27
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:40 PM
the lighting issue was all because of a shorted wire behind the dash. as soon as i cut it all my lights came back!
i'll give those instructions a go, save me lifting the engine out again.
cheers.
i'll give those instructions a go, save me lifting the engine out again.
cheers.
#28
makka
-
- Members
-
- 3,559 posts
A m��se once bit my sister
- Name:Cohen
- Location:ya daughters place
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 06 July 2006 - 12:26 PM
to get my extractors in, I had to fit them from underneath, with a bit of swearing the went in
#29
_big chris_
_big chris_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 July 2006 - 05:14 PM
Hey,
Have seen a blue V8 put into a LH before,
the owner ended up having to install a commodore shifter to the Torana,
which is a bit of a pain in the *** because on the different floor pan shape,
they had to make a section to align the shift,
to lift is off the floor pan and level it,
in order to select all gears.
Cheers
Chris.
Have seen a blue V8 put into a LH before,
the owner ended up having to install a commodore shifter to the Torana,
which is a bit of a pain in the *** because on the different floor pan shape,
they had to make a section to align the shift,
to lift is off the floor pan and level it,
in order to select all gears.
Cheers
Chris.
#30
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 10 July 2006 - 06:41 PM
got the motor in and running. took it for a drive last night...
auto shifts are bad and engine won't idle. i'm gonna try timing it with a light.
question: can trimatics be taken out without moving the engine forward? it seems to be leaking like a siv from the front main seal
cheers.
auto shifts are bad and engine won't idle. i'm gonna try timing it with a light.
question: can trimatics be taken out without moving the engine forward? it seems to be leaking like a siv from the front main seal
cheers.
#31
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 July 2006 - 04:30 PM
got the engine idling, ruff but ok...
the trimatic is stuffed i think. it shudders in drive and stalls the engine in reverse. it was full ok auto trans fluid. any ideas?
i was quoted $700 for a pickup, rebuild and refit for the trimatic. is that a good price?
cheers
the trimatic is stuffed i think. it shudders in drive and stalls the engine in reverse. it was full ok auto trans fluid. any ideas?
i was quoted $700 for a pickup, rebuild and refit for the trimatic. is that a good price?
cheers
#32
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 11 July 2006 - 06:16 PM
$700 is ok, ive paid $800 for a 4cyl once.
choose your repairer wisely as the above $800 job had to go back twice, oil pump instalation problem.
would it be worthwhile to havwe it serviced first, around $80.
choose your repairer wisely as the above $800 job had to go back twice, oil pump instalation problem.
would it be worthwhile to havwe it serviced first, around $80.
#33
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 July 2006 - 06:51 PM
mm... surely they would test it before simply tearing it apart for a total rebuild?
anyone got timing details for the blue 253? i only have the red ones.
cheers.
anyone got timing details for the blue 253? i only have the red ones.
cheers.
#34
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 11 July 2006 - 07:14 PM
has anyone actually experienced shuddering due to a stuffed trimatic? a mate reckons it could be the tailshaft or the leads/something to do with the engine?
cheers.
cheers.
#35
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 12 July 2006 - 07:11 PM
ok... i've tried and tried and tried tuning that engine.. i swear it hates me. I've put a new rotor button in it, new leads, new plugs and i've checked the firing order a million times, yet it still stalls in reverse!
the book says that plug one on the dizzy needs to be sort of on the passenger side, but my engine will only work if i turn the dizzy so that plug one is almost up against the fire wall.
a mate recommended a place for the auto today.. the bloke said $550 if i take it out myself, which i'm happy to do, but he wanted the motor running almost perfect before he goes near it.. any ideas? i'm really running out of time!
cheers
the book says that plug one on the dizzy needs to be sort of on the passenger side, but my engine will only work if i turn the dizzy so that plug one is almost up against the fire wall.
a mate recommended a place for the auto today.. the bloke said $550 if i take it out myself, which i'm happy to do, but he wanted the motor running almost perfect before he goes near it.. any ideas? i'm really running out of time!
cheers
#36
gtrboyy
-
- Members
-
- 3,144 posts
Lotsa Posts!
- Location:SYDNEY,NSW
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 13 July 2006 - 01:37 PM
If it was mine I would do a compression test because if there is something wrong with the engine then trying to tune it will never really work out well if it is down a cylinder so make sure you have a good base to start with.
What is the history of this engine? It could also be a dud balancer,stretched timing chain or simply a matter of the dissy not being installed correctly.
What is the history of this engine? It could also be a dud balancer,stretched timing chain or simply a matter of the dissy not being installed correctly.
#37
makka
-
- Members
-
- 3,559 posts
A m��se once bit my sister
- Name:Cohen
- Location:ya daughters place
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 13 July 2006 - 03:49 PM
vacuum leaks? put more fluid into the box, even if it says its full. is the vacuum line to the modulator connected?
#38
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 16 July 2006 - 07:30 PM
had a mechanic come look at it... it was a vaccuum leak in the valley cover. put a set of new gaskets in, runs like a dream, (when warm) 
as for the auto... shuddering HEAPS less. idels in gear too. reverse low and slow are all perfect, but drive still shudders a little. still think i need a rebuild? my mechanic said he'd do it for $550 if i take it out. i have to take it out anyway to do the front seal, so yeah. worth doing it while i'm at it? for that price?
thanks for all your help guys,
cheers.
as for the auto... shuddering HEAPS less. idels in gear too. reverse low and slow are all perfect, but drive still shudders a little. still think i need a rebuild? my mechanic said he'd do it for $550 if i take it out. i have to take it out anyway to do the front seal, so yeah. worth doing it while i'm at it? for that price?
thanks for all your help guys,
cheers.
#39
_Neat LX_
_Neat LX_
-
- Guests
Posted 16 July 2006 - 09:54 PM
When i had my trimatics go, they wouldnt really shudder but basically slip in 2nd and drive! Would only hold 1st and as soon as you click to 2nd, would just rev and slip.
All 3 times it did it (3 different boxes) they needed rebuilds and cost $800 to have done if car was towed in. This was about 6 yrs ago tho
All 3 times it did it (3 different boxes) they needed rebuilds and cost $800 to have done if car was towed in. This was about 6 yrs ago tho
#40
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 20 July 2006 - 06:30 PM
ok... i've had it with this car. got my reco'd auto back yesterday. fitted today. no more shuddering. no apparent problems with that yet.BUT! IT'S STALLING IN GEAR AGAIN!
I didn't even touch the engine!!! any ideas? i'm hoping its something simple like the auto needs more fluid... i put 8 litres in, as told to by the guy who rebuilt it.i'm also considering going crazy with the silastic around the back of the valley cover and carby as i can hear a faint whistle, and my vaccuum guage isn't reading as high as before.
cheers.
#41
gtrboyy
-
- Members
-
- 3,144 posts
Lotsa Posts!
- Location:SYDNEY,NSW
- Joined: 07-November 05
Posted 20 July 2006 - 07:19 PM
The vacuum line from the auto to the carby?
#42
makka
-
- Members
-
- 3,559 posts
A m��se once bit my sister
- Name:Cohen
- Location:ya daughters place
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 21 July 2006 - 08:04 PM
im with him^
#43
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 23 July 2006 - 08:31 PM
wasn't the auto line... it was the base gasket on carby (and inlet manifold). that sorted the idling issues.
i think its running very rich tho... smells like it and smoke can be seen at night (with someone's headlights on behind). any tricks on tuning the rochesters?
auto's great, shifts beautiful. going to exhaust shop tomorrow to get the loops over the diff ($200). hopefully getting the blue slip on wednesday. I shouldn;t need a bigger brake booster should I? it was a 202...
Cheers.
i think its running very rich tho... smells like it and smoke can be seen at night (with someone's headlights on behind). any tricks on tuning the rochesters?
auto's great, shifts beautiful. going to exhaust shop tomorrow to get the loops over the diff ($200). hopefully getting the blue slip on wednesday. I shouldn;t need a bigger brake booster should I? it was a 202...
Cheers.
#44
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 27 July 2006 - 01:41 PM
all done, blue slipped and everything! 
but i think the carby is still quite a bit out of tune. how many turns are the mixture screws supposed to come out? I heard 1.5 turns each was a good starting point? it's idling too high and smells rich, and the idle screw is wound out so far its not even touching anymore... any ideas?
also, the vaccuum advance mechanism on the dizzy has a gremlin in it. the advance unit itself is fine, but when i suck on the vaccuum line, the rotor doesn't return all the way back, and it is very slow. ???
would these two issues explain why its guzzled $40 of fuel in next to no time at all?
Cheers guys,
Kurt.
but i think the carby is still quite a bit out of tune. how many turns are the mixture screws supposed to come out? I heard 1.5 turns each was a good starting point? it's idling too high and smells rich, and the idle screw is wound out so far its not even touching anymore... any ideas?
also, the vaccuum advance mechanism on the dizzy has a gremlin in it. the advance unit itself is fine, but when i suck on the vaccuum line, the rotor doesn't return all the way back, and it is very slow. ???
would these two issues explain why its guzzled $40 of fuel in next to no time at all?
Cheers guys,
Kurt.
#45
makka
-
- Members
-
- 3,559 posts
A m��se once bit my sister
- Name:Cohen
- Location:ya daughters place
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 27 July 2006 - 01:46 PM
it sounds like your choke is stuck on. is your choke connected to the hot air pipe from the manifold?
yes, 1.5 turns is a good starting point.
with your mechanical advance, try spraying some CRC or similar on the linkages inside the dizzy. personally I dont run any vac advance, but mine isnt standard either....
send me a PM if you want some help on how to tune a Quaddy
yes, 1.5 turns is a good starting point.
with your mechanical advance, try spraying some CRC or similar on the linkages inside the dizzy. personally I dont run any vac advance, but mine isnt standard either....
send me a PM if you want some help on how to tune a Quaddy
#46
_Loki_
_Loki_
-
- Guests
Posted 27 July 2006 - 01:52 PM
The 6cyl tailshaft and v8 tailshafts are IDENTICAL in girdth (hehe), length and weight.is the v8 tailshaft different? i was told the 6cyl one was the same?
do you think ebay would be my best bet for it?
hm. i hope my shifts aren't reversed...
cheers
The only difference is the Universals.
I really cannot see you snapping 6cyl uni's behind a stock 253 either unless you're doing alot of burnouts or peeling off the line wheels spinning and sudden acceleration.
Don't forget to get v8 Torana engine mounts!
The mounts are two-piece, the rubber section that bolts onto the chassis are the same for Commodore/Torana but the mount that bolts onto the block (and then consequently onto the rubber mount) are different.
If you don't change it over you won't fit the engine by about an inch
[edit] Oh oops, see you already had it fitted.
Edited by Loki, 27 July 2006 - 01:57 PM.
#47
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 07 August 2006 - 01:41 PM
the car seems to be running fairly well now. thanks for the help everyone
two things...
1) When i put my foot down there is a rattling sound which sounds like its from the engine bay. Could it be a stretched timing chain ?
2) There is a ticking sound coming from underneath the shifter. My guess is either something with the auto or an exhaust leak.
Any ideas?
Cheers.
two things...
1) When i put my foot down there is a rattling sound which sounds like its from the engine bay. Could it be a stretched timing chain ?
2) There is a ticking sound coming from underneath the shifter. My guess is either something with the auto or an exhaust leak.
Any ideas?
Cheers.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
