Hey guys
I just bought Wurth polyester filler, and POR15 just need to know the proccess of using these.
Should i firstly apply the POR15 to the surface first? (i believe the point of this stuff is to apply to bare metal so i think i should use this first)
Then use a primer?
Then use the filler??
Is there a particular primer i should use if i want to use 2 pac paint?? I havnt bought the primer yet so i need to know what to ask for if there is a particular type i should use for 2 pak paint.
Kind regards
Polyester Filler
Started by
Bart
, Jun 22 2006 11:53 PM
24 replies to this topic
#1
Bart
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Posted 22 June 2006 - 11:53 PM
#2
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Posted 23 June 2006 - 12:06 AM
where are you going to use the por15, dont put it on the bare metal on outside panels its not meant for going under outside paint
#3
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Posted 23 June 2006 - 01:02 AM
ok, not under outside paint.
So that leaves me with, what should i put on the bare metal first? Outside panel.
I read another post suggesting etch primer??
Im keeping the car long term, for as long as i live, hopfully a long time so the best option is needed here.
1st etch primer? (ppg 2 pak etch primer)??
2nd primer?
3rd polyester filler?
4th primer? (polyester primer??)
So that leaves me with, what should i put on the bare metal first? Outside panel.
I read another post suggesting etch primer??
Im keeping the car long term, for as long as i live, hopfully a long time so the best option is needed here.
1st etch primer? (ppg 2 pak etch primer)??
2nd primer?
3rd polyester filler?
4th primer? (polyester primer??)
Edited by Bart, 23 June 2006 - 01:05 AM.
#4
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Posted 23 June 2006 - 07:05 PM
on a good bare metal job i use 2k etch primer such as PROTEC paraphos,then i use a good 2k hi fill over that PROTEC parafill ect. i never leave cars in etch primer for more than 24 hours without sealing them off with 2k hi fill ect.
#5
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Posted 23 June 2006 - 09:54 PM
So did you buy a SPRAY polyester filler?
If that is the case you can either spray it over 2K etch like suggested or spray it over your bare steel and repaired areas. Then board file the car straight and then 2K hifill primer/putty and carry on a normal paint procedure.
If you've bought polyester body filler (ie. Bog) then yes you can also use that over scuffed up 2K etch or bare steel too depending on your preference, then spray your 2K hifill primer/putty.
I'd keep the POR15 for your floorpans and underbody, thats what its designed for.
If that is the case you can either spray it over 2K etch like suggested or spray it over your bare steel and repaired areas. Then board file the car straight and then 2K hifill primer/putty and carry on a normal paint procedure.
If you've bought polyester body filler (ie. Bog) then yes you can also use that over scuffed up 2K etch or bare steel too depending on your preference, then spray your 2K hifill primer/putty.
I'd keep the POR15 for your floorpans and underbody, thats what its designed for.
#6
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Posted 23 June 2006 - 11:20 PM
Very helpfull advice thanks guys.
The POR15 i have used inside the new sill panels, keeping approx 1 inch away from the spot welds, i have trialed this on scrap metal and the POR15 is ok as long as i keep the weld on 3-4 seconds.
I have been told not to use the polyester filler on bare steel, so i may just etch first, where would i get the above mentioned etch??
\Is there a long nozzel i can buy to fit on a spray gun, so i can poke it in the inner sills so i can give the inner sills a once over of POR15 after welding?
The best iv found is a body deadner or degreaser gun which have long nozzels. Or do i have to custom make something??
Kind regards
The POR15 i have used inside the new sill panels, keeping approx 1 inch away from the spot welds, i have trialed this on scrap metal and the POR15 is ok as long as i keep the weld on 3-4 seconds.
I have been told not to use the polyester filler on bare steel, so i may just etch first, where would i get the above mentioned etch??
\Is there a long nozzel i can buy to fit on a spray gun, so i can poke it in the inner sills so i can give the inner sills a once over of POR15 after welding?
The best iv found is a body deadner or degreaser gun which have long nozzels. Or do i have to custom make something??
Kind regards
#7
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Posted 23 June 2006 - 11:22 PM
I bought a poly filler applied by spatularSo did you buy a SPRAY polyester filler?
If that is the case you can either spray it over 2K etch like suggested or spray it over your bare steel and repaired areas. Then board file the car straight and then 2K hifill primer/putty and carry on a normal paint procedure.
If you've bought polyester body filler (ie. Bog) then yes you can also use that over scuffed up 2K etch or bare steel too depending on your preference, then spray your 2K hifill primer/putty.
I'd keep the POR15 for your floorpans and underbody, thats what its designed for.
Iv been buying Wurth products so i probably should buy 2k etch from Wurth also?
Edited by Bart, 23 June 2006 - 11:24 PM.
#8
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Posted 23 June 2006 - 11:45 PM
So you have what is commonly referred to as Bog right? It will come down to personal preference with regards to putting it over bare steel or not.
I'm guessing your doing a complete bare metal respray, then I'd be inclined to 2K epoxy etch prime the entire car and then use your Bog over that. Its another step that will help maintain a sound base for your paint. All you'll need to do is scuff the area you need to apply the body filler with some 80grit dry paper.
Wurth make a great range of quality products but im not sure they actually manufacture actual paints. I'd probably decide what type of brand of paint you intend to use for your top coats and then use their brand of 2K primer/putty that way your keeping it in the family and lessening your chances of any later paint issues.
As always buy 2K epoxy etch primer from any automotive paint supply shop, there are various brands but most of the time you get what you pay for, I've used Glasurit 2K epoxy etch in the past and I really like it. They may also have something to help you apply your POR15 into the tighter spaces.
I'm guessing your doing a complete bare metal respray, then I'd be inclined to 2K epoxy etch prime the entire car and then use your Bog over that. Its another step that will help maintain a sound base for your paint. All you'll need to do is scuff the area you need to apply the body filler with some 80grit dry paper.
Wurth make a great range of quality products but im not sure they actually manufacture actual paints. I'd probably decide what type of brand of paint you intend to use for your top coats and then use their brand of 2K primer/putty that way your keeping it in the family and lessening your chances of any later paint issues.
As always buy 2K epoxy etch primer from any automotive paint supply shop, there are various brands but most of the time you get what you pay for, I've used Glasurit 2K epoxy etch in the past and I really like it. They may also have something to help you apply your POR15 into the tighter spaces.
#9
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Posted 24 June 2006 - 10:20 AM
I wonder if i can get 2k etch in a preasure pack, as im doing the sill panels, which i just replaced.
Do i need any special breathing equipment to use this stuff?
Do i need any special breathing equipment to use this stuff?
#10
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Posted 24 June 2006 - 07:51 PM
I wonder if i can get 2k etch in a preasure pack
2K is slang for 2 part paint, ie. one part is paint and the other is a catalyst, Therefore pressure packs arent an option for 2K as once you mix the two you can't stop the chemical reaction.
A good quality 1K etch from a reputable paint company (glasurit,PPG etc etc) will be safe to use if you only need to do a small inconspicuos area like a sill section etc. I wouldn't use it over the entire car but for a smaller area down low I don't think you'll have any issues with it particularly if you seal it with 2K high fill.
An investment in a proper mask would be a start, I use a Sundstrom mask with a 2 piece filter (charcoal and paper) You can usually buy it in a kit for around $100-150 from automotive paint supply shops
#11
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Posted 24 June 2006 - 08:03 PM
good on ya mate most apprieciate the advice 
#12
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Posted 24 June 2006 - 08:45 PM
I might just coat the outside sill with Wattyl black etch for now, untill it gets painted.
#13
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Posted 29 June 2006 - 06:39 PM
por15 have bought out a large range of products
if you use it on outside panels you'll also need to apply there (bonding coat)
this coat can be primed then painted ect
it works out more expensive and i'm about to trial it.
has anyone else used it yet?
(^^ info supplied to me by my local paint supplier)
tom
if you use it on outside panels you'll also need to apply there (bonding coat)
this coat can be primed then painted ect
it works out more expensive and i'm about to trial it.
has anyone else used it yet?
(^^ info supplied to me by my local paint supplier)
tom
Edited by munro, 29 June 2006 - 06:40 PM.
#14
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Posted 29 June 2006 - 06:49 PM
Ill have a look into that because id love to rust proof my Tori
#15
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Posted 29 June 2006 - 10:09 PM
if you clean the body up (inside and out) after you paint it go through everything with cavity wax.Ill have a look into that because id love to rust proof my Tori
the stuff works wonders
tom
#16
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 12:15 AM
#17
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 12:23 AM
Is that filler??
#18
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 01:00 AM
fish oil n tar inside and etch/prime/paint/polish/wax outside. tried and proven methods.Ill have a look into that because id love to rust proof my Tori
rodomo loves sanding eh?
Edited by ALX76, 30 June 2006 - 01:01 AM.
#19
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 01:00 AM
thats bog
when you say polyester filler it can refer to BOG
or 2k polyester which is sprayed on but i havn't seen used for ages
the spray used to be popular for it's high build propertys but modern primer/puttys have the same high build propertys and won't f#ck up if you get it wet.
tom
when you say polyester filler it can refer to BOG
or 2k polyester which is sprayed on but i havn't seen used for ages
the spray used to be popular for it's high build propertys but modern primer/puttys have the same high build propertys and won't f#ck up if you get it wet.
tom
#20
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 12:26 AM
stupid question, what does 2K mean, does it mean 2 part ie filler and hardener???
As i have filler and hardener (pollyester filler) which is applied by spatula. Are you saying this is 2k filler??
Sorry if youre repeating the answer.
As i have filler and hardener (pollyester filler) which is applied by spatula. Are you saying this is 2k filler??
Sorry if youre repeating the answer.
#21
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 12:31 AM
yes
#22
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 09:52 AM
#23
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:54 PM
I used some 2k white on top of por 15 tie coat over por 15 and it sunk in and didnt cure properly, must have reacted with the por 15 tie coat.
the only primer you can bog over is epoxy primer wich is becoming popular for long term jobs and is very practical to use on a car that you only get to work on over the weekend.
they say you can paint over por 15 but im not going to muck around with it anymore under paint.
when you use por 15 you need to stick to the directions or you will end up peeling it all of and starting again. its good for floor tops and inside chassis rails and should only be used after treating with por 15 metal ready. it doesnt stick to painted surfaces very well either.
the only primer you can bog over is epoxy primer wich is becoming popular for long term jobs and is very practical to use on a car that you only get to work on over the weekend.
they say you can paint over por 15 but im not going to muck around with it anymore under paint.
when you use por 15 you need to stick to the directions or you will end up peeling it all of and starting again. its good for floor tops and inside chassis rails and should only be used after treating with por 15 metal ready. it doesnt stick to painted surfaces very well either.
#24
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:03 PM
thanx FCCOOL for the handy info ^.
have always been shy of por 15 myself and tend to stay with trade trends.
cheers.
have always been shy of por 15 myself and tend to stay with trade trends.
cheers.
Edited by ALX76, 05 July 2006 - 10:04 PM.
#25
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:53 PM
i'm sure your suposto prime the tie coat before base coatI used some 2k white on top of por 15 tie coat over por 15 and it sunk in and didnt cure properly, must have reacted with the por 15 tie coat.
the only primer you can bog over is epoxy primer wich is becoming popular for long term jobs and is very practical to use on a car that you only get to work on over the weekend.
they say you can paint over por 15 but im not going to muck around with it anymore under paint.
when you use por 15 you need to stick to the directions or you will end up peeling it all of and starting again. its good for floor tops and inside chassis rails and should only be used after treating with por 15 metal ready. it doesnt stick to painted surfaces very well either.
thats proberbly why it sank.
i feel sorry for you as it would have been an expensive exercise not to mention time consuming.
tom
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