Just to continue the slappers thread.
Yeah Pete i have been advised to keep clear of lead wiping, i truly believed it would be the best way to smooth panels etc.
But like you, others have advised about contamination from the flux in the lead and wrecking a panit job.
The other thing i want to ask about slapping out dents, i have a dent in my car where i have welded a sill panel, now there is a low spot along where ive welded, does a low spot have to be slapped outwards, or can a dolly be placed behind the low spot and slapped from the outside?? or will this make the dent worse? I imagine it will make it worse and the low spot should be slapped out from the inner side??The problem is there is no room to swing a slapper behind the sill panel, the other way i can think of doing this is pulling the low spot out with a slide hammer and making a slight high spot then slapping it down with a dolly behind it.
What you reckon, as you can tell im only a beginner but like to learn and get some tips if you dont mind.
Kind regards
Dents and stuff
Started by
Bart
, Jun 29 2006 08:41 PM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Bart
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Posted 29 June 2006 - 08:41 PM
#2
_Pete_
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Posted 29 June 2006 - 09:09 PM
If you can get in behind the area you have welded then yes you need to bump the low spot outwards from the inside so your surface is close to where it needs to be, if you do take it slightly high then it won't be an issue as you can bump it back down.The idea of a slapper particularly the ones with the file style surface is to raise the lows and knock down the highs. You'll need to get a dolly with a similar shape to the panel your trying to correct in behind the area your repairing and hold firm pressure with it against the panel while you work the panel into its required shape.
Getting in behind some panels can be a problem due to a lack of space so using a different aray of tools to act as a dolly is usually the answer, the smooth style slapper is good for tight areas with flat surfaces, large panelbeating spoons are also ideal for panels with some curve in them also the humble pinch bar can be used with success in some instances.
Sometimes you have to make tools to get into some areas and thats kool also. Air operated pin pullers are fantastic for dents that you can't get into from behind but they are way too expensive to have one sitting in your backyard shed. If you can't get in behind a panel like a front windscreen pillar or a fully welded sill section for example you can always tack weld a large flat washer onto the panel and use a slide hammer to pull the dent out. Normally with a bit of patience and effort you can get it close enough so that a thin wipe will take care of it.
A fantastic website I'd recommend you have a look at is www.metalmeet.com, its primarily based on sheet metal shaping but also very particular about metal finishing damage without the use of fillers. The guys on the forum there are probably the best people any internet forum could possibly ask for. They will go out of their way to help out anyone willing to learn.
Getting in behind some panels can be a problem due to a lack of space so using a different aray of tools to act as a dolly is usually the answer, the smooth style slapper is good for tight areas with flat surfaces, large panelbeating spoons are also ideal for panels with some curve in them also the humble pinch bar can be used with success in some instances.
Sometimes you have to make tools to get into some areas and thats kool also. Air operated pin pullers are fantastic for dents that you can't get into from behind but they are way too expensive to have one sitting in your backyard shed. If you can't get in behind a panel like a front windscreen pillar or a fully welded sill section for example you can always tack weld a large flat washer onto the panel and use a slide hammer to pull the dent out. Normally with a bit of patience and effort you can get it close enough so that a thin wipe will take care of it.
A fantastic website I'd recommend you have a look at is www.metalmeet.com, its primarily based on sheet metal shaping but also very particular about metal finishing damage without the use of fillers. The guys on the forum there are probably the best people any internet forum could possibly ask for. They will go out of their way to help out anyone willing to learn.
#3
TerrA LX
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Posted 29 June 2006 - 09:13 PM
try to picture how the repair happened in the first place then decide how to manage the repair back to its origional state, ie if you bump a quarter then all it may need is a gentle push from the opposite side with your hand, and if you hit a guard with a hammer then you need to apply force in the opposite direction.
if using a hammer to hit it then a dolly is used hard up against the other side to prevent going too far.
i have used many things other than hammers and slappers including 4x2 and flat bar steel, even making my own shapes for one off jobs.
get a practice panel, put some dents in it and have a go. it takes lots of practice but a keen eye will assist you picking it up relatively quickly.
^^^^^Pete beat me (pardon the pun)
if using a hammer to hit it then a dolly is used hard up against the other side to prevent going too far.
i have used many things other than hammers and slappers including 4x2 and flat bar steel, even making my own shapes for one off jobs.
get a practice panel, put some dents in it and have a go. it takes lots of practice but a keen eye will assist you picking it up relatively quickly.
^^^^^Pete beat me (pardon the pun)
Edited by ALX76, 29 June 2006 - 09:21 PM.
#4
_munro_
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Posted 29 June 2006 - 10:17 PM
you may have trouble on the weld of a sill panel repair
'cause 1: it's hard to access
2: it's more than likely you've put too much heat into it and shrunk it.
secondly lead wiping is fine aslong as you do the cleanup and use a decent etch primer to prep it afterwards
tom
'cause 1: it's hard to access
2: it's more than likely you've put too much heat into it and shrunk it.
secondly lead wiping is fine aslong as you do the cleanup and use a decent etch primer to prep it afterwards
tom
#5
Bart
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Posted 29 June 2006 - 10:50 PM
Found this from a seller in Ebay www.performancemetalshaping.com
Thanks Pete very interesting, i might make something up to put along the inner sill, crow bar sounds like it will fit nicely i think, or something similar, to take out the low spot i may have to use the spot weld/slide hammer technique. Fingers crossed i dont totally stuff it.
Should be fine i think, as when i enjoy doing something (like this) i normally do kind of ok.... i think....i hope or i will be very 
Thanks Pete very interesting, i might make something up to put along the inner sill, crow bar sounds like it will fit nicely i think, or something similar, to take out the low spot i may have to use the spot weld/slide hammer technique. Fingers crossed i dont totally stuff it.
Should be fine i think, as when i enjoy doing something (like this) i normally do kind of ok.... i think....i hope or i will be very
#6
Bart
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 05:57 PM
Hey Pete, i checked out that forum and its fantastic, if anyone wants to learn a bit about panel beating i recomend it, and there are a few Aussies there too.
#7
_Pete_
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Posted 30 June 2006 - 06:44 PM
the best part is no matter how much you think you might know there is always something new to learn and the guys are fantastic in sharing knowledge, the talent there is phenomenal!!, if you haven't already check out the willys fender that one of the guys shaped from flat sheet steel in the advanced metal shaping section, its awe inspiring work and the best part the guys are only too happy to reveal the techniques required!!.
#8
racean69
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Posted 01 July 2006 - 09:44 AM
Found that site a little while back and its an excellant site
I had a look at the "fender" job ..very good work
And thanks for your pointers pete they are always well riten and informative.
Forums like ours and that one and prob a few others make putting up with all the crap parts of the internet (virus, popups, gutter porn etc) worth while.
cheers
I had a look at the "fender" job ..very good work
And thanks for your pointers pete they are always well riten and informative.
Forums like ours and that one and prob a few others make putting up with all the crap parts of the internet (virus, popups, gutter porn etc) worth while.
cheers
#9
_slr6000_
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 01:59 AM
I found that site a while back as well.
If you have seen the shrinking disk on there i found an easy way to get one happening. All i did was use a stanless steel saucepan lid on my sander.
Not having an oxy its been a big help in getting panels straight.
If you have seen the shrinking disk on there i found an easy way to get one happening. All i did was use a stanless steel saucepan lid on my sander.
Not having an oxy its been a big help in getting panels straight.
Edited by slr6000, 05 July 2006 - 02:00 AM.
#10
_Pete_
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Posted 05 July 2006 - 05:22 PM
Hi slr6000, any chance of a pic of your saucepan lid shrinking disc?, I've got a small sheet of stainless that i put aside to make mine with but still havent got around to doing it yet. I'm guessing you must have found a perfect lid to make one out of?
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