Seriously...?... overheating issues. most worked engines that I am aware of do when sitting in traffic.

Waterless coolant
#26
Posted 30 October 2013 - 01:25 PM
#27
Posted 30 October 2013 - 01:44 PM
Most cooling systems are designed for stock motors with a small buffer, when you go bigger cams compression and especially cubes you need to increase size. I know camaro's with big blocks have radiators atleast 6 inches wider than a 308 style radiator, with a much larger engine bay that does not retain the heat.
#28
_LS1 Hatch_
Posted 30 October 2013 - 01:46 PM
With normal coolant, and a proper sized cooling system, you shouldn't have any over heating engine with a 'worked' engine or not...
(and for what it is worth, my car never has ran warm..even on a hot day sitting and idling for ages.)
I built a blown LS powered Camaro too, with a standard size aluminum 2 core radiator..and even with it, the a/c condensor, and an intercooler in front of that..using factory late model fans it has no trouble keeping it's temp as well. (using normal Prestone antifreeze and distilled water..)
Had a 6-71 blown, big block chev in a '67 Nova around that my mate had bought a little while ago to take home as a toy, and got stuck in some traffic on the freeway heading down to the warehouse, and it did fine as well. (had a custom built, but not overly huge alloy radiator in it with twin fans)
#29
Posted 30 October 2013 - 04:46 PM
waste of money , $15.00 gets you a bottle of redline water wetter , as good as it gets and if you decide to take the radiator out or remove the engine just add another bottle .
Sounds promising, the Redline Water Wetter video is worth watching.
I could not find any indication of how often if ever the coolant needs to be changed or move water wetter added.
I would be more comfortable if Redline specified that they meet the requirements of GM 6277M or any of the other vehicle specifications. Most coolant manufacturers list the vehicle specifications that their coolants comply with for example Nulon Specifications Match. You click on the specification and it will list the matching products. Redline only list ASTM D2570 and ASTM D1384.
ASTM D1384
This test method will generally distinguish between coolants that are definitely deleterious from the corrosion standpoint and those that are suitable for further evaluation. However, the results of this test method cannot stand alone as evidence of satisfactory corrosion inhibition. The actual service value of an engine coolant formulation can be determined only by more comprehensive bench, dynamometer, and field tests.
ASTM 2570
This test method, by a closer approach to engine cooling system conditions, provides better evaluation and selective screening of engine coolants than is possible from glassware testing (Test Method D1384). The improvement is achieved by controlled circulation of the coolant, by the use of automotive cooling system components, and by a greater ratio of metal surface area to coolant volume.
Although this test method provides improved discrimination, it cannot conclusively predict satisfactory corrosion inhibition and service life. If greater assurance of satisfactory performance is desired, it should be obtained from full-scale engine tests (Test Method D2758) and from field testing in actual service (Practice D2847).
#30
Posted 30 October 2013 - 08:26 PM
*sniggers*...................a lot.magic water I can't look at this thread any more.
#31
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 31 October 2013 - 04:54 PM
Made for there wizbang all alloy everything engines that are lightyears ahead of the glorified tractor engine we call a ls, so would likely work fine for you guys.
80,000km service interval :-)
#32
Posted 31 October 2013 - 06:45 PM
It works out around $55 every four years /80,000 for the LS2.
#33
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 31 October 2013 - 06:46 PM
NIce and cheap compared to the Nulon junk you were quoting earlyer .
And what, 20 years untill its reached the same price as the waterless stuff?
Chances are you will have something else happen and loose the coolant in that time....
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 31 October 2013 - 06:48 PM.
#34
Posted 31 October 2013 - 07:58 PM
I just picked the Nulon at random as an example of price per 5L. Most long life coolants including the Toyota coolant are around $30-$40 if you buy the 5L premix containers.
That said, in my case price is not the deciding factor. The OP question was "Has anyone heard anything about this stuff, or used it?" not "Is Evans coolant value for money".
If the Evans coolant lives up to the following claims then I would be interested.
No need to change the coolant again.
No pressure in the cooling system.
No chance of electrolysis.
If I did decide to purchase the Evans coolant then I would look into buying in the USA through LS1 Hatch. The price in the USA is $30-$40 per gallon.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 31 October 2013 - 08:02 PM.
#35
Posted 01 November 2013 - 11:12 AM
Are you planing on running a cap?No pressure in the cooling system.
At around 100deg C is there no expansion of this coolant at all?
#36
Posted 01 November 2013 - 11:34 AM
No water means no expansion.
You can safely remove the radiator cap when the cooling system is at operating temperature. See around 3:30 in this clip.
#37
Posted 01 November 2013 - 02:28 PM
Also, how does the pump design cope without pressure?
Water is an excellent conductor of heat and that's its primary advantage. This is the main down side of anti-boil, anti-freeze and corrosion inhibitor additives - each makes up for a shortcoming but the compromise is slightly reduced cooling efficiency. Surely the first comparison that should be made is the heat transfer efficiency of this coolant? I don't see that info here...?
#38
Posted 01 November 2013 - 07:09 PM
Pure Water: 100 C / 212 F
50/50 mix of Ethylene Glycol / Water: 106 C / 223 F
70/30 mix of Ethylene Glycol / Water: 113 C / 235 F
Evans Coolant: 190 C / 374 F
The pressure in the cooling system is to raise the boiling point of the coolant., 15 psi will raise the boiling point by around 25 C. Source
The attraction of no pressure is that I once had a the heater in my hatch core spring a leak and I got coolant on my feet and legs. I was wearing work boots and jeans at the time. I had just pulled into a car park so was able to get out of the car quickly. A non pressurised cooling system is safer than a pressurised cooling system. It is not a big deal but if you can make it safer and it still works then why not?
According to Evans the temperature in the radiator will be 3 - 7 degrees higher with Evans than it will be with Ethylene Glycol / Water mix coolant. The temperature in the engine will remain the same as it is controlled by the thermostat assuming the cooling system is up to the job.
Q. Will Evans Waterless Coolant cause my engine to run at a higher temperature?
A. The operating temperature of the engine and coolant may increase slightly, by approximately 3-7 degrees. However the temperature inside the engine will be consistent and steam vapour will not be produced# i#e engines often run cooler with Evans Waterless Coolants.
http://www.evanscool...om.au/faqs.html
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 01 November 2013 - 07:18 PM.
#39
Posted 01 November 2013 - 07:14 PM
I've been reading this with interest.
I have no water in my car atm & i'm using an alloy radiator, new hoses/pump ect.
This looks like a good thing to me (mainly because it doesn't carry any electrical charge) , but i'm wondering what it is like on gaskets?
#40
_Mint_
Posted 01 November 2013 - 08:23 PM
i would like to point out that Holden never used glycol based coolants in their early sixes an v8's just a corrosion inhibitor
i hate the stuff..i have seen ethylene glycol coolant leek out of head gaskets on a new motor start up
#41
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 01 November 2013 - 08:43 PM
I have to ask a really stupid question.
I was under the impression the pressure in the cooling system was both to raise the boiling point and to put the water everywhere it needs to be, not where it feels like being.
If you remove the pressure, will the fluid just go where it wants (path of least resistance) instead of going where it needs to be?
Cheers.
#42
Posted 01 November 2013 - 09:08 PM
Most agree that you should run the engine in or at least do the first startup on straight wateri have seen ethylene glycol coolant leek out of head gaskets on a new motor start up
I guess this was sorta my question with regard to the pump's effectivenessIf you remove the pressure, will the fluid just go where it wants (path of least resistance) instead of going where it needs to be?
Also on the lifetime thing, I'd probably end up dumping the coolant for other reasons every 12 months or so which renders that pointless!
#43
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 01 November 2013 - 09:16 PM
THought that was the go, which made me wish to post my more straight to the money question.
Does the flash website provide such answers.
Looking at my 20lt bottle of Toyota coolant atm, yes its in the lounge room....frOck its sexy
Also, agreed, i always run straight water in fresh engines, mostly because you never know where theres gonna be a leak and i hate wasting money!!! Water is dang near free, coolant on the other hand....
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 01 November 2013 - 09:17 PM.
#44
Posted 01 November 2013 - 09:28 PM
The cooling system is a closed system, the static pressure inside a closed system will not make any difference to where the liquid will flow.
There is no reason why you can't drain the coolant into a container and use it again when you are ready. I have done that with normal coolant when changing a thermostat or a hose. You could use it in another vehicle if you want.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 01 November 2013 - 09:29 PM.
#45
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 01 November 2013 - 09:38 PM
Unless you split a block lol.
Probably less of a concern for you guys running aforementioned glorified tractor engines as opposed to us still rocking old school cool in the form of the greatest engine ever...
But, point taken.
Cheers.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 01 November 2013 - 09:39 PM.
#46
_LS1 Taxi_
Posted 02 November 2013 - 12:01 AM
#47
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 02 November 2013 - 12:15 AM
Your probably right.
IIRC holden sixes were referred to as "engines from the stone age" so i came up with a nice little retort. At the end of the day LS1/2/3/whatever are ancient technology wrapped in a nice alloy package. "glorified tractor engine"
Sure they make good power with few mods, sure there nice and light, sure there nice and compact, but at the end of the day there still lightyears behind what else is on the market currently.
Bang for your buck replacement, sure, go ahead. I wont disagree.
If you want to actually go real frOcking fast (something im not interested in personally) and prepared to pave a few roads then there's way way way better on the market.
Infact when i used to have a LH i was seriously considering a LS conversion, untill i was at a car show one night, and heard a late model commy with a cam/chip/intake/exhaust drive off, sounded like a Dyson. Then a nice SB cheved Torry kicked over and drove off, and i figured that was substantially better. Then a XW falcon ticked over and drove off, and i decided that was ultimate....Best sound per dollar....
I have since woken up to myself and decided as far as cars go i have no place being financially involved with a veeate.
For me performance per dollar is only part of the equation.
All that said, the new LS8 (is that right?) dohc thing looks orright to me.
But, this is WWWAAAYYYY off topic.
Cheers.
#48
_LS1 Taxi_
Posted 02 November 2013 - 12:30 AM
I too love the sound of cranky and pissed off sounding V8's that factory EFI engines will never deliver. I haven't yet heard a worked, carbed and cammed LS (that i know of) yet to see if it has that pissed off balls to the wall sound so I can't comment. I too think no V8 sound matches that of an angry clevo....but you are right. Apologies all, this is horribly off topic.
#49
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 02 November 2013 - 12:47 AM
Group hug
#50
Posted 02 November 2013 - 01:26 AM
LS1rana, on 01 Nov 2013 - 21:53, said:
I don't get the reference to glorified tractor engines. Not that it matters a great deal but I still don't understand it. For me the LS engines are bang for buck the best option available for old holdens. Or an I missing something?
In my opinion the best bang for buck engine in a big Torana is a SBC with a carby, I consider putting an LS2 in my hatch a mistake.
I think that if you have the opportunity to run a engine with a carby then you should take it.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users