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Water soluble temporary Rust Inhibitor

Started by _Mid Life Crisis_ , Nov 07 2013 08:38 PM
Rust

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#1 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 08:38 PM

So I have a bare metal Hatch shell that had a temporary rust inhibitor (good for 12 to 18 Months) applied in the final dipping tub. Now I need to do some panel repairs that will require welding grinding and drilling. When I do this work I want  will re-apply a water soluble inhibitor that will give me temp protection for about 12 months until I get it into an etch primer.

 

My Project thread link

 

http://www.gmh-toran...late-than-never

 

Can anyone give me any suggestions

 

I want it to be easily removable when it is time to paint


#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 08:41 PM

Sorry to be blunt, but why the frOck didnt you just use a 1k etch like Protec EtchPro?

 

frOck putting anything on bare metal that needs water to get it off.

 

Cheers.


#3 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 08:52 PM

Hey Bomber.... you shouldn't be so shy and say what you really mean.  :stirpot:

 

I haven't put anything on it yet and the inhibitor on it at the moment I believe is a Lanoguard product. So I can find another Lanoguard product that will do the job but I was trying to elicit any experiences that forum members may have had with other products

 

I am very much a resto Novice..... Are you suggesting that I should give it a coat of the Protech Etchpro and then do the repairs and just apply the etchpro after each repair is completed???


Edited by Mid Life Crisis, 07 November 2013 - 09:00 PM.

#4 TerrA LX

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 08:56 PM

Never heard of a water soluble rust inhibitor, kinda defeats the purpose in my mind, it is the exclusion of moisture that you are trying to achieve to help prevent rust.

Anything wrong with undercoating the areas you will be working on?

#5 torana_nick

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 08:58 PM

I use to spray 1k etch out of a can on repair areas that whould just come off with a wipe over
With thinners.
I would epoxy the entire car if I did it all over again.

#6 TerrA LX

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 08:58 PM

FYI lanolin is a water repellent, it is not soluble in water. Think sheeps wool.

If Lanogard is soluble in water then there will not be much protection offered to exclude moisture.

#7 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:01 PM

Right, so you have a trade qualified spray painter (me) and a trade qualified panel beater (Terry) Aaaand im not sure what Nick does but he's more or less on the money anyway, asking the same question....

 

WTF is the go with this so called water soluble rust inhibitor bullshit your wasting your time and money on?

 

You did say i shouldnt be so shy :tease:

 

Cheers.


Edited by Bomber Watson, 07 November 2013 - 09:02 PM.

#8 TerrA LX

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:02 PM

frOck putting anything on bare metal that needs water to get it off.
 
Cheers.

Guess you never used deoxidine? (tongue in cheek).

#9 TerrA LX

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:04 PM

Right, so you have a trade qualified spray painter (me) and a trade qualified panel beater

I'm actually a Fabrication Engineer by trade with post trade in Paint and Panel but meh.

#10 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:05 PM

I guess I have really confused this by my lack of in depth knowledge.... what I was trying to get at was that I wanted a rust inhibitor that did not create a nightmare when it comes to paint prep

 

Sorry guys :banghead:


#11 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:08 PM

1k etch. Answer to all of your questions.

 

Terry, my humblest apologies i shall remember this fact, and Yes, i have used Deoxidine....And sanded the frOck out of  it afterwards as i hate the idea.

 

Cheers.


#12 TerrA LX

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:12 PM

WOW you sand off the protective deoxidising layer?

#13 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:14 PM

Bomber, just to clarify, your suggestion would be to put the bare metal back under etch primer and then proceed with the panel repairs??? 


Edited by Mid Life Crisis, 07 November 2013 - 09:14 PM.

#14 TerrA LX

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:14 PM

http://www.gmh-toran...er/#entry769912

#15 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:17 PM

Yep and proceeded to lay down a vastly superior 2k zp epoxy hehe.

 

Come to think of it, i was using Septone rust converter, not Deoxidine as per say....

 

Cheers.



Dave. The areas you strip for your repairs, 1k etch. coat them with 1k etch, continue on. When its all done if its in a shed it will be fine years after.

 

When it comes time to put down a proper primer, it will simply wipe off with thinners, or sand off ultra quickly with some p180.

 

Cheers.


#16 TerrA LX

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:20 PM

Come to think of it, i was using Septone rust converter, not Deoxidine as per say....
 
Cheers.

Yeah BITD deoxidine was a Dulux trade name which just stuck with just about everyone that I knew in the trade.
Old habits die hard.

#17 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:21 PM

Terry, would that product ("All-U-Need") be OK (with Prep) to have POR 15 / Rust Bullet (or similar) painted over it??


#18 TerrA LX

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:23 PM

I didn't think you needed undercoat with kill rust products?

#19 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:25 PM

Agreed....

 

They seem to recommend putting them over the bare metal.


#20 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 07 November 2013 - 09:31 PM

So it sounds like all those areas that I intend to use the POR 15 or Rust Bullet I should put them on the clean metal, in fact I think that in my case, with the clean rust free surface that I have, Rust Bullet will probably be best as everything I have read on POR 15 indicates that it actually requires some corrosion to convert and use in the bonding process. 

 

The rest into Etch Primer

 

Then get on with repairs

 

 

Thanks guys


Edited by Mid Life Crisis, 07 November 2013 - 09:36 PM.

#21 _sloffador_

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Posted 09 November 2013 - 10:55 AM

Hey Dave im doing exactly the same process as you and my mate who's been spraying cars for all his life is just doing the repairs and etch priming where hes done work

when hes doing more work he just rubs it back


#22 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 09 November 2013 - 12:08 PM

Thanks Pete, I think that is the conclusion I have come to but its good to hear from someone else that is in the same situation..... Good excuse to buy some more toys..... oops I mean serious Tools (spray equipment)  :party:


#23 _sloffador_

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Posted 09 November 2013 - 01:41 PM

Mate its great fun [ I mean serious business] buying all the tools for the resto


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