Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

Installing XU1 dash.

Started by _judgelj_ , Nov 28 2013 07:38 PM

Prev

Please log in to reply

45 replies to this topic

#26 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,549 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 08 December 2013 - 06:55 PM

you need to use twin sheathed cable, ie a red and a black 6 mm cable in a plastic sheath,not sure on the brake fail light, think it might get a feed from the start circuit

Power for the brake fail/warning light must come from the ignition 'ON' circuit. If it's power supply came from the 'START' circuit the warning light would only work when you crank the engine.

Back to top

#27 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 08 December 2013 - 07:22 PM

I think start circuit is the pink wire anyway? I would probably use the existing 12v that is currently connected to the standard dash plug, which bring be to my next question... Dave, how do i go about powering my instruments, and lighting. Same circuit or seperate power feeds? How does the standard dash work, what powers the fuel gauge and lighting if we look at the attached diagram... StandardWiringHarness.jpg 262.3K 35 downloads

Back to top

#28 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,549 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 08 December 2013 - 07:37 PM

Power for all Instrument illumination is the grey wire (#14) inst lights on the fuse box. Power supply for the inst light circuit comes via the headlight switch.

Power supply for oil, temp and fuel gauges, brake fail light and gen light is the pink wire (#9) TellTales/Back Up on the fuse box. Power supply to the Tell Tales/Back Up circuit comes via the ignition switch.

Back to top

#29 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 08 December 2013 - 08:13 PM

#14 which is #8 on the plug, and #9 which is #6 on the plug, is that right?

How do i go about connecting X amount of lighting wires all to one power source? Join all of them at the end, or solder them in sequence on a separate wire?

thanks for that.

Back to top

#30 _hutch_

Guests

Posted 08 December 2013 - 08:32 PM

Doesn't the brake fail come on during the start cycle ??
havnt got a an interior in mine yet and my memory isn't that good

Back to top

#31 _hutch_

Guests

Posted 08 December 2013 - 08:55 PM

I think I was getting confused with the supply to the brake fail light, old age catching up, there is nothing on the diagram about the brake fail at all,but it does come on in the start position doesn't it as a test as does the standard LJ dash temp light

Back to top

#32 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,549 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 08 December 2013 - 09:09 PM

#14 which is #8 on the plug, and #9 which is #6 on the plug, is that right?

How do i go about connecting X amount of lighting wires all to one power source? Join all of them at the end, or solder them in sequence on a separate wire?

thanks for that.

#14 and #9 on the fuse box wiring diagram. Which plug/s are you referring to?

Connect them in series, loop from one bulb holder to the next for the power supply until they are all connected.

Back to top

#33 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 08 December 2013 - 10:33 PM

Ok will do, and I'm referring to the plug used with a standard dash.

Thanks Dave you are a legend I think I can do it in my sleep, now.

Back to top

#34 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,549 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 09 December 2013 - 12:56 AM

Ok will do, and I'm referring to the plug used with a standard dash.

Thanks Dave you are a legend I think I can do it in my sleep, now.

Wouldn't worry too much about the std instrument main connector, you'll be getting rid of that won't you?

Thinking about it a bit more and to say wire them up in series is incorrect, they are actually wired in parallel.

The power wires going from one bulb holder to the next bulb holder will be joined together into the same connector in each bulb holder.

Same goes for an earth wire circuit if your bulb holders are not self earthing.

Back to top

#35 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 09 December 2013 - 09:12 AM

I'm not actually chopping the plug off, Dave. I've spliced into each wire and soldered/heat shrunk in and extra wire which will then run into a new plug. This way the dash can be returned to standard quite easily. But the original plug is handy as the wires are numbered and I can easily tell what is what by referring to the numbers on the wiring diagram

Back to top

#36 S pack

Scrivet Counter

Members
15,549 posts

Name:Dave
Location:Luggage Point
Car:73 LJ
Joined: 25-January 10

Posted 09 December 2013 - 10:55 AM

Hi Jacob, not a bad idea retaining the main wiring connector for easy swap back to std dash. Just make sure all the contacts are clean.

Cheers

Dave.

Back to top

#37 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 09 December 2013 - 04:37 PM

Ok so all wired in and here are the problems. Temp gauge doesn't work (suspect sender), indicators don't flash, but gen light was as hung with the indicator (could hear the can clicking but I think it died when it stopped all together). Hand brake light is on with the hand brake light, but could be the warning switch triggered (how do I reset it? No illumination with headlights and no tacho when revving in neutral.

Highbeam light works, gen light seems to work and alternator is charging, fuel gauge works.

Just haven't wired up the ammeter as my loom plug is rated for 20amp and not sure if it was ok?

Back to top

#38 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 09 December 2013 - 05:32 PM

Quick look and it likely I mixed up wires, is it possible to burn out a flasher can? Still doesn't explain my temp gauge. Does the temp gauge move the slightest when car is switched on, or does it stay still under it registers heat ?

Back to top

#39 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 11 December 2013 - 11:50 AM

Ok so taco, temp work now I'm pretty happy. Indicators don't work anymore and instrument lights don't work blew a fuse. I seem to think that there is a short somewhere, can't say that same for indicators can't explain it. Amp metre doesn't move except when headlights turn on and off. Is there a polarity for the two power wires going too the ammeter so to speak?

Back to top

#40 _hutch_

Guests

Posted 11 December 2013 - 05:48 PM

Just connect the ammeter,it won't hurt if it's backwards,will only read back to front,50% chance of being right ,and if it's wrong swap the cables

Back to top

#41 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 11 December 2013 - 06:58 PM

Yeah well that's the thing it doesn't sit on zero even when the car is off, sits maybe a touch to the right of zero and flickers when I turn on the lights. Now I know that's a seperate issue but it should at least show charge when the lights are off.

Back to top

#42 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 14 December 2013 - 06:45 PM

never mind, all sorted, one of the bulb holders had power to the earth, all good now.

Back to top

#43 _glennhailstone_

Guests

Posted 27 August 2014 - 03:55 PM

OMG : (

Back to top

#44 _glennhailstone_

Guests

Posted 27 August 2014 - 04:12 PM

Woosaa, Ok.. I like Robs idea. Those other ones sound waaay too complex.

Easy way to do the ammeter.

Find the main Battery feed to the fusebox.

Its the one that comes from the fusible link on the starter.

Cut it at the fusebox and extend it to the ammeter.

Connect it to the -ve terminal on ammeter.

Find another piece of wire the same size and connect one end to the +ve terminal on the ammeter.

Connect other end to the fusebox where you cut the first wire.

Solder and heatshrink the joins.

Does any body have any objections with this.

Will this method allow the gauge to read both ways, (i.e. charging when engine running, and discharging when engine is off and lights ect are on).

Lastly, with the ve+ and ve-… on the original VDO amp gauge there is no + - the terminals read B and GEN, which I assume is Battery and Generator.

Any help please, this is a stretch for a lowly mechanically minded guy, but I do want to do it myself.

Thanks All

Back to top

#45 _glennhailstone_

Guests

Posted 27 August 2014 - 04:20 PM

Theres also this way, which sounds pretty legit.

"hi,you'll also find that your alternator won't charge properly without the idiot light,to connect your guage remove the small wire from the the terminal on your starter motor,where the battery lead connects,run this to one side of your amp meter,the other side of the meter goes back to the terminal on the starter where you removed the small wire from originally,this is the correct method of connecting a guageas it will allow the guage to read both ways(ie charging when engine is running & discharing when engine is off & lights etc are on)connecting it in the alternator lead only shows if the alternator is making power,not whether it's charging the battery."

Cheers

Edited by glennhailstone, 27 August 2014 - 04:22 PM.

Back to top

#46 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 27 August 2014 - 05:30 PM

Pretty sure i just cut the main power wire (thick red) that goes to the fuse box and ran two wires to either side, both to my fuse box. The gauge is in amps so it was pointless to me. I just wanted it to operate. Had nothing to do with getting the alternator working. Had to make sure the dash was 100% wired up and GEN light connected because the alternator would not charge otherwise.