SR20 into a UC
#1
Posted 11 January 2014 - 04:59 PM
How hard would it be to fit an sr20 into a UC?
The UC is lighter than an s13 (just) so it would go well.
My uc gas all wheel discs and 6 cyl suspenion so that would be ok.
So what would i have to consider to do it as ive said many times i dont have a lot of money so could it be done cheap ( so to speak). I know engine mounts, gearbox mounts and wiring are to consider. But does anyone know if a custom sump would be needed? Could it be mounted so only the tailshaft yolk needs to be changed rather than geting a new one made to save money?
What would an overall rough cost be i know i could get a motor and box for under $1000 if i shop around but could i use the cable clutch?
With the wiring all i care about at first would be getting it running and driving gauges and so on could ve done later on as long as i have a speedo.
Again its just an idea ive had recently. Is it possible on a low budget?
What other things are there to consider. And is it too big of a job?
#2 _Lazarus_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 06:37 PM
You'd need the same kind of fuel set-up you would require for any injected motor. A drop tank with internal pump and surge baffles might be the easiest but maybe not the cheapest.
And you'd need a custom diff. Not sure what ratio the S13s run but I can look it up. A converted early Hilux 4WD diff would probably be a good choice, high ratio and factory LSD.
I can check out the factory sump position for you too. Pretty positive it's at the front on the Silvias but there maybe rear ones on those AWD GTi-R Pulsars or maybe another model.
I assume you are talking SR 20 DET ? (turbo)
If you are going to all that trouble something like an RB 20 DET would probably be a better option.
.
Edited by Lazarus, 11 January 2014 - 06:49 PM.
#3
Posted 11 January 2014 - 06:48 PM
i doubt the brakes would be up to the task? and it would sound like a wet fart and i agree with mark, if your going to the effort of the engine swap may aswell go with an rb or even a 1 or 2jz.
not to put you off, but i dont think it would be a low budget job if you cant do 99.9% of it yourself
#4
Posted 11 January 2014 - 06:52 PM
For the diff ratio i have a 3.9 and a 3.08 here so one should surely work with the combo.
As for a turbo it wouldnt get one to start with as ive still got 18 months on my p pkates but it would be a future option.
The larger 6 rb is heavier, longer and more expensive, plus when you can get 400 hp out of an sr why go the heavier motor for the same power as thats the max i would want. And with how light it would be with the sr block it would probably pull harder than a standard s13 too
#5
Posted 11 January 2014 - 06:59 PM
rb30's can be had for as little as 1-200 bucks, cheaper than old holden 6's
#6 _LS1 Taxi_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 07:06 PM
If you try do it cheap, it won't be good....and won't be engineerable.
Save up, do it once, do it right.
#7 _Lazarus_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 07:19 PM
To get an SR 20 to make a reliable 400 hp would cost an arm and a leg.
Those twin cam jap 4s usually run high 4 diff ratios, like 4.88s.
An RB or 1JZ would be much cheaper in the long run. Or use something like an injected 2.6 Isuzu and custom turbo installation.
#8
Posted 11 January 2014 - 07:22 PM
have done 6 to 8 before which would be cheaper
#9
Posted 11 January 2014 - 07:26 PM
#10 _Lazarus_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 07:57 PM
There's another mob who make conversion kits, maybe Nizpro ?
The standard RB 30 motor needs the chassis rail notched to clear the manifold / turbo. That's one reason why I suggested the RB 20. They are cheap and have a good reputation. Not sure if this is necessary with them.
ps. I believe you can use a modified Patrol sump also.
.
Edited by Lazarus, 11 January 2014 - 07:58 PM.
#11
Posted 11 January 2014 - 08:32 PM
The main reason im asking about conversions is because im sick of the problems ive had with 202's and weak gearboxes. I want something better on fuel and more reliable as i drive from albury to melbourne quite often. I also have my first baby on the way so need to sort out the driveline by then because after that i know i wont have money for a while to spend on cars.
Its either sort out the uc or i dont have a choice but to sell it and buy something newer (which i dont want to do) and the missus said i should keep the torana which is a plus haha
#12 _Lazarus_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 08:49 PM
If you want a good reliable driver that's cheap to run I'd forget about big horsepower figures. Injected motors give you heaps of mid range torque right where you need it on the road.
In your situation I'd be looking at a mild Holden 6 with injection manifold on straight gas, or a non turbo Jap 6 like an RB 30 or 1 or 2JZ. Get a good RB 30 and gearbox out of an old Skyline and you will have all the power you need, unless you want to go racing, and excellent economy.
But in saying that you can build a mild 173 with a 5 speed that will go good and be cheap to run, just a bit harder to start on cold mornings.
.
Edited by Lazarus, 11 January 2014 - 08:50 PM.
#13
Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:01 PM
Then with that motor i would kill gearboxes a lot ive already killed 3 boxes in 4 years
#14
Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:09 PM
yep, if you can find a sump from an rb30 patrol i think its a good starting point. i think 1k for an rb30 and box is a bit expensive but if thats your budget for motor and box you might be better off with a cheap rb30 motor for a few hundred and spending the extra money on the rb25 gearbox which is a bit stronger i think? you could probably cheapen it up more by just getting an rb30 and auto. not sure if you can avoid the chassis notching mark mentioned by using a cheap/ebay high mount turbo manifold?
if you get in contact with Lee from extreme turbo manifolds, he used to do the conversion mounts. he might not anymore as i think he mostly does xr6 stuff these days, but its worth a shot.
also check out turbo76lx's build thread for his rb conversion, maybe pm him for some info?
or keep the original motor and spend your money on beer
#15
Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:10 PM
If you put a Jap motor in your Holden you have to put a Nissan badge on the grill.
If you go though with this there'll be no inheritance from me son.
#16 _Lazarus_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:20 PM
For a bit of grunt and reasonable economy an EFI 304 and Turbo 700 would be the cheapest option I would think ?
#17
Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:31 PM
3 gearboxes in 4 years easy on the clutch son
#18
Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:50 PM
A 304 would be expensive as the extractors are 1000 alone then 1500 plus for the motor and box. Then over 500 for the exhaust.
Radiator and all the rest. It will also be heavy in the front and handle a lot worse. Also would need new springs and so on.
The 1000 for rb is a complete car a guy i know has for sale so would have radiator, fuel pump, motor, manual box, ecu and i could have the exhaust connected to my current system with little work for less cost. The conversion gear from crs is about $1300
Now im just getting myself confused haha
#19 _judgelj_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 09:59 PM
#20 _Lazarus_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:25 PM
I would.
Nice motors the N /A RB 30s.
But you have to watch a couple of things. I've read that the X-flow radiators in the VLs caused the head cracking. So a Torana V8 or 6, or R31 Skyline radiator might be the go. Skylines are supposedly more preferable donors for the engines apparently because they never had issues with this.
The computers are tuneable so you could whack in a mild cam and some extractors and get it remapped and you would have somewhere round 130Kw and much better economy than you'll ever get from a 202. I think the first Skyline GTSs had 140Kw.
#21 _Skapinad_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:28 PM
#22
Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:34 PM
Attached Files
#23 _Skapinad_
Posted 11 January 2014 - 10:34 PM
#24
Posted 12 January 2014 - 12:53 AM
The trick is to get one from an r31 or gq patrol, it wasn't anything to do with the radiators in vl's causing cracked heads, it is because nissan gave holden all the "factory second" heads!
#25
Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:17 AM
This tells me that you are not set up to do all the work yourself, which unfortunately for you means that your budget is quite unrealistic for such an engine conversion. It also sounds like you don't have a long time frame to get it all done?Then over 500 for the exhaust.
I agree with the best bang for buck being to spend some money on the 202, they can be plenty reliable and still a bit of fun.
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users