Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

SR20 into a UC

Started by hawk , Jan 11 2014 04:59 PM

Prev

Next

Please log in to reply

51 replies to this topic

#26 _76S.L.R_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 01:38 PM

I wouldn't go SR20DET at any price mate, I just went through over 4 years of hell trying to get my 180SX ( Sr20det redtop) to run right, even 4-5 jap workshops couldn't find the cause. It was misfiring and bogging down with no power after driving for about 15 mins, other days it ran fine?. I changed every frOcking sensor in it with new ones,New Turbo, fuel pump,Air Flow Meter .. you name it.

They are absolute pricks of motors to work on, it will cost you a small fortune to install it all correctly, I gladly sold the bastard thing off to some young bloke, couldn't wait to be rid of it!!

Edited by 76S.L.R, 12 January 2014 - 01:40 PM.

Back to top

#27 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 01:48 PM

Keep the 202, always better bang for your buck up to about 350-400 hp or so.

Cheers.

Back to top

#28 hawk

Forum Fixture

Members
2,147 posts

Name:steve
Location:Berwick, Melbourne
Car:UC Torana
Joined: 16-July 09

Posted 12 January 2014 - 01:56 PM

Well if i keep the 202 what do i do to it? I have no idea what cam to choose and if i went to a basic turbo setup i would need help from someone to do it. My current bottom end is a stock blue motor one and the bores looked fine when i had the head off it. The red head is really good nick too but is only standard. Tge rest is stock other than a 34adm weber

Back to top

#29 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:07 PM

So whats wrong with it currently again?

Back to top

#30 Ice

Cool

Members
15,127 posts

Name:Gene
Location:Galaxy's away from Ipswich
Car:77 HZ Sandman Van
Joined: 03-January 07

Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:13 PM

As soon as you start talking turbos the cost will blow out simple
Nice cam is all you need to get the 202 going and that head will be fine
headwork turbos exhaust it all adds up in the end and will blow out the budget

Back to top

#31 hawk

Forum Fixture

Members
2,147 posts

Name:steve
Location:Berwick, Melbourne
Car:UC Torana
Joined: 16-July 09

Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:20 PM

At the moment it just feels gutless. I just repaired the blown head gasket, blown inlet/exhaust gasket and replaced the extractors with a stock manifold because the backfire cracked them too. Also needs a new flywheel as two teeth broke off it after the backfire too. I really want to get it out redo the gaskets (sump and sideplates) and the rear main then paint it all up so it looks nice.

I also want to beat my mates commodores.

Back to top

#32 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:34 PM

Your biggest issue is likely the stock 9 port, regardless of its condition.

Have you considered an ultra basic quick and nasty?

Stock reconditioned 12 port head, stock 12 port carby inlet mani with either a 350 or 500 holley 2bbl spun 90 degrees so the float bowl points outwards (requires alloy welding, but shouldnt cost to much to have done), stock 12 port cast iron manifold, and a mild cam like a Crow 35619, good tune up, and just drive?

Cheers.

Back to top

#33 _Lazarus_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:38 PM

When you say blue bottom end do you mean crank and rods or block also ?

Seems weird that you would have a stock 9 port on a blue block.

Back to top

#34 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:40 PM

Trivially easy conversion Mark.

Cheers.

Back to top

#35 _Lazarus_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:50 PM

Yes but why would you ?

Back to top

#36 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 02:59 PM

Quiet possibly the manifolds you have are currently to suit a red motor, you find a good blue bottom end, do a swap.

Also with modifications the 9 port tends to give a bit more peak hp, infact the engine i just pulled out of the LJ was a blue/black block with a 9 port, although i am fitting a 12 port this time around.

Im guessing moreso the first option in this case.

Back to top

#37 _Lazarus_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 03:37 PM

So you have to drill and plug water passages like going 12 port on red block I assume ?

And do you need dishtops for a reasonable CR ?

.

Edited by Lazarus, 12 January 2014 - 03:38 PM.

Back to top

#38 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 03:39 PM

Slugs stay the same, and just drill the water passages is sufficient, though you can plug the unneeded ones if your keen.

Cheers.

Back to top

#39 _Skapinad_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 04:11 PM

Did you see the motor john gong was offering for sale recently ? $950 with a yells terra head, could be a good starting point and you can finish and swap straight over so it's not off the road for too long..,

Back to top

#40 hawk

Forum Fixture

Members
2,147 posts

Name:steve
Location:Berwick, Melbourne
Car:UC Torana
Joined: 16-July 09

Posted 12 January 2014 - 04:16 PM

Exactly i wanted ro use the manifolds i have as the carb adaptor i have wont fit the 12 port manifold. Also the head was way better nick and so was the rocker gear.

So why rotate the holley on the manifold? Also there is a pack on ebay with a 500 holley and reline manifold to suit 9 port head for $500 is that reasonable ?

Back to top

#41 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 04:18 PM

I wouldnt pay near that for the pack.

You rotate the carb so it can work properly.

It will work far better on the stock 12 port manifolds as i mentioned than on any aftermarket ones.

Back to top

#42 hawk

Forum Fixture

Members
2,147 posts

Name:steve
Location:Berwick, Melbourne
Car:UC Torana
Joined: 16-July 09

Posted 12 January 2014 - 04:47 PM

Ok thanks

Back to top

#43 _judgelj_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:04 PM

Care to a actually elaborate on the rotation of the carb?

Honestly you're probably better off saving cash and buying an s13 or 180 turbo. +2 for the sr20 being a Cunning Stunt my mates one fried looms and burnt computers scary shit

Back to top

#44 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:10 PM

Instead of the butterfly's favoring the rear cylinders as they open as they do on every holden six manifold for a holley ever made, rotating it makes the butterfly's open toward the ports, and gives a more even fuel distribution.

Its covered in more depth on OJ's site, but thats the short and nasty.

Cheers.

Back to top

#45 _Lazarus_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:20 PM

Is it worth it though ?

I guess for a strong motor with a 500 Holley it might be but for a mild motor a Weber is a better choice isn't it ?

But then again a strong motor is better off with a four barrel or triples ?

Must be time I read through Johnno's thread again I s'pose...

Back to top

#46 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:33 PM

Honestly i prefer Holleys, purely because for about $100 you can get enough tuning parts to be able to dial anything in, multiple times over.

Webbers annoy me, its harder to buy parts for them, no where local stocks the stuff, not even gaskets, and there finniky bloody things to tune.

Holleys have a bad rep because no one botheres to set them up properly.

And for the hours work required, yeah, i recon spinning it would be worth it

Cheers.

Back to top

#47 _LS1 Taxi_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:41 PM

I always preferred the 465 4bbl Holley myself.

The spinning thing on a 2bbl makes good sense though.

Back to top

#48 _Bomber Watson_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 08:55 PM

works the same for a 4bbl.

Im actually about to do two manifolds shortly

Cheers.

Back to top

#49 _imj411_

Guests

Posted 12 January 2014 - 09:16 PM

hey Hawk has it been timed correctly and do you run it on 98. advanced the dizzy as much as you can a little at a time then take it for a test drive and keep doing it until it pings when it pings back it of a little. is the weber tuned correctly?