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building a 202


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#26 hawk

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:44 PM

Also i can assemble it all myself and xan put more money towards it over the next few weeks. Im just no good at saving haha

#27 Ice

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:45 PM

Hey steve are you building this engine or someone else

#28 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:47 PM

Steve is putting it together himself.

 

Hawk, It would be cheaper for you to find someone local do do it, i would do it for nix, cost of the adapter plate, but your looking at $50 or so in return postage probably. Surely one of your mates can glue alloy and likes beer?

 

Cheers. 



#29 hawk

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:50 PM

Got no mates lol only been living here a year and keep to myself

#30 _Lazarus_

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:53 PM

Rebuilding a 2 barrel Hollley is easy.

 

The hardest job here is the manifold adaptation. From everything I've read you are better off with the Weber or a Varijet if you don't do that mod.

 

You could take it to an engineering shop and they would do it for under $200 I would think.

 

Or you could spend your money on a reco of the Weber or a rebuilt Varijet.

 

 

 

.


Edited by Lazarus, 14 January 2014 - 08:55 PM.


#31 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 08:54 PM

As above.

 

Forgot to answer, general going rate for a 2bbl Holley is $25-$50.

 

Power past a few welding works, boat builders, something like that, have a bit of a chat, see if you can find an apprentice who wants to make a box of piss on the side to get the plate welded on to spin the carb.

 

If you dont feel like doing some leg work to make it happen, then just stick with the webber. 

 

Cheers. 


Edited by Bomber Watson, 14 January 2014 - 08:56 PM.


#32 hawk

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 09:03 PM

Ok ill have a look around town and see what i can find

#33 _Lazarus_

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 09:11 PM

Street Machine did a Grunt Hunt on a Blue 202 about 15 years ago. I've got the 3 articles in my collection. The block was rebuilt to standard specs but balanced and blueprinted.

 

76 Kw as per factory. They took off the fan and air filter and got around 100Kw !

 

Then they threw in a cam and got 120 something, around the same as a VN. They tried first a 350 Holley then a 500 and lost power compared to the Varijet, no doubt tdue to the orientation of the carbs. After that they put a 12 port YT iron head on it and got 148 maybe ? Then they went to VK injection and got a couple more horses but heaps more mid range torque.

 

 

So it's worth your while making up a cold air feed and using thermos or a plastic fan rather than the standard clutch type.

 

 

 

.


Edited by Lazarus, 14 January 2014 - 09:13 PM.


#34 hawk

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 12:03 PM

So far been quoted 350-400 for a mild cam and lifters
280 for roller rockers
And im waiting to hear from the engine builders about the cost of a head as they have a reco black head there

#35 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 12:19 PM

http://www.precision...2464&EID=729324

http://www.precision...2157&EID=729324

Like i said, shop around. Thats also the place to get your gaskets and the like i will find them later for you.

#36 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 12:35 PM

Oh yeah, dont waste your money on rollers either stock ones will be fine.

#37 hawk

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 01:10 PM

Whats that brand like? The cam and lifter pack i menioned was a crow cams pack that horsepower world sells. Also whats the actual point of roller rockers?
Will the rocker gear from my current 9 port be ok to use ? And pushrods?

#38 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 01:20 PM

If your current 9 port is a later style with bridges rockers then they will bolt on.

Nothing wrong with that brand of cam, few lads runnig them.

DO NOT DEAL WITH HORSEPOWER WORLD AT ANY COST.

Roller rockers are stronger and free up a tiny bit of power, but you will not need them forthis build.

Timing gear set

http://www.precision...7898&EID=729324

Harmonic balancer

http://www.precision...7776&EID=729315

Gasket kit

http://www.precision...110E&EID=729315

Cheers.

#39 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 01:22 PM

I will have to have a look at what stock blue springs can do, this cam may be more suitable.

http://www.precision...2463&EID=729315

#40 hawk

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 01:27 PM

What about double valve springs ? I do get what i think is a bit of valve bounce in the higher rpm range

#41 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 01:39 PM

Blue/blacj heads have better springs standard.

They are singles with a dampner, they will be fine for the rpm, im just worried about coil bind at the lift, like i said i will measure one when i get home.

How did you go with that ebay head?

#42 hawk

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 01:50 PM

Havnt bought it yet as im waiting to see how much the one at the local engine builders is. They have a reco one on the shelf and said he will call me with a price.

I did pick up the flywheel today that cost me $40

I just dont know how to buy stuff online so its a bit hard to order things

#43 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 01:55 PM

Precision is easy as.

If you have a credit card or visa debit your set.

#44 hawk

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 02:30 PM

Ok kool ill give it a shot. So what exact cam should i go for?
Whats a good power figure to aim at?
Will a 500 holley be too big?

So far for 1k it looks like i can get
Head around $500
Cam $150
Lifters $40
Timing set $65
Balancer $35
Gasket kit $50
Flywheel $40

Then i still need the carby, manifolds, plugs, leads, engine pipe and maybe a head stud kit.

Anything else i should consider?

#45 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 02:59 PM

No need for head studs either.

I sent you two links to two specific cams, like i said i will have a look at some stage for you and work out which would be more suitable imo.

500 would be an ok size. 350 will be to small i recon.

Power figure? Who cares?

Cheers.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 16 January 2014 - 03:00 PM.


#46 _Cbwardy_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 03:22 PM

DO NOT DEAL WITH HORSEPOWER WORLD AT ANY COST.


This.

#47 _Cbwardy_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 03:25 PM

New rings (if the pistons are okay) and rod bearings should be first on the list. Should be about $100 for both

#48 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 03:27 PM

I was under the impression he wasnt pulling the bottom end down.

#49 SA EH

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 08:40 PM

Ha ha ha! He said Horsepower World....

Doing well here Bomber, I needed you about 4 years ago! I'm just gonna keep my 2 cents to myself, & have another beer...

#50 hawk

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 08:47 PM

The bottom end will stay as is the bores are really good and the pistons have virtually no carbon buildup.
I do want to do the rear main seal and paint the motor. Also would like to have turbo return line bungs welded into the sump as im still considering it as an option later on and will mean i wont have to pull the motor again




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