trying to fit a blue 253 into the LH after taking out a red 202. motor turns over, haven;t tested spark yet because i have no rotor button, but getting one tomorrow...
the main problem is though, headlights, blinkers, stereo and starter motor all work, but i have no brake lights, tail lights, number plate light, dash lights, or horn.
all fuses are fine. there are two green wires left in the engine bay, not sure where they go or what they do.
can anyone help me? please!?
cheers.
lights... what the!?
Started by
_oikurtman_
, Jul 05 2006 07:47 PM
18 replies to this topic
#2
surfmaster
-
- Moderators
-
- 2,019 posts
Marineboy
- Location:Nowra N.S.W.
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 05 July 2006 - 07:52 PM
Do you have power to both sides of the fuses?
#3
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:04 PM
not sure... do that with a test light?
cheers
cheers
#4
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:05 PM
Yes, this is where Id go 1st, if no voltmeter, use a testlight.Do you have power to both sides of the fuses?
From the sounds of it the live sources on the fuse panel are not getting a 12 V supply. If you have a multimeter check the voltage between the fuse terminals and earth for the stop and park lamps fuses.
If this is confirmed as no voltage present, then the failure to this point needs to be investigated. There should be a very large diameter red wire that supplies the power bar for these bank of fuses, it will go back to the headlight switch and joins another red wire which should then make its way to the ignition switch. Check the connection of this wire/integrity of join at the headlight switch(where it attaches to the switch will be the point where your headlamps are getting its 12V they are working, so we know there is power in the wire up to that point)
My circuit diag of the LH/x is a little blurry, and im going off the UC one here, but Im 99% confident this part of the fuse panel, ign and headlight switch are exactly the same. The power fuse for your dash lights is supplied downstream from the headlight switch and it should be rectified by fixing the above.
Let us know how you go.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 05 July 2006 - 08:07 PM.
#5
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:29 PM
yeah just tested the fuses...
all worked with the test light except the 'inst lts' both terminals and the 'horn/stop/park/dome' left terminal...
any ideas?
cheers.
all worked with the test light except the 'inst lts' both terminals and the 'horn/stop/park/dome' left terminal...
any ideas?
cheers.
#6
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:39 PM
If one side of the fuse isnt at 12V it has to be the fuse, they can be damaged at the ends and dont have to be visibly broken, replace it with another one.
#7
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:44 PM
i changed the fuse, no difference. but when i took the fuse out all together, the right side still lit up, but the left didn't.
#8
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:54 PM
Im not sure if we are talking the same thing here, the fuse panel has basically two columns of fuses, we are talking about the terminals on either side of the fuse that actually hold the fuse in?. If one terminal of the fuse is at 12V then the only thing stopping the other side being at 12 V is the fuse itself. Is the terminal on the other side corroded?
Another test, put the fuse so that one end is on the good end and the other end is pointing straight out towards you, put the test lamp between the end pointing at you and the body, does it light up?
Another test, put the fuse so that one end is on the good end and the other end is pointing straight out towards you, put the test lamp between the end pointing at you and the body, does it light up?
Edited by devilsadvocate, 05 July 2006 - 08:57 PM.
#9
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:59 PM
had the fuse with one end in the right terminal and the other facing me, connected test light to that end and earth, and it lit up. still left side dead.
#10
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:07 PM
surely this must have something to do with me engine bay wiring, especially the two green wires that aren;t connected to anything, because all these lights were working before i changed the engine over, (2 days ago).
#11
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:08 PM
If you then put the side of the fuse you just tested into its terminal then that side of the fuse has to be live, are you saying that one end of the fuse lights the test lamp and as soon as you connect it to its terminal it goes dead?
#12
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:10 PM
what happens is..
if i test the right terminal to earth, thers light.
left terminal to earth, nothing
left terminal to right terminal, nothing
left terminal to right terminal with fuse in, nothing.
if i test the right terminal to earth, thers light.
left terminal to earth, nothing
left terminal to right terminal, nothing
left terminal to right terminal with fuse in, nothing.
#13
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:13 PM
i have a wiring diagram in front of me if its any help?
#14
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:22 PM
Test left terminal to earth with fuse in, if nothing fuse is still at fault,put the connection for the test lamp on surface of the fuse touching the terminal.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 05 July 2006 - 09:23 PM.
#15
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:25 PM
but didn;t we prove that the fuse works?
how come the right terminal works regardless of whether the fuse is in or not, whereas the left doesn;t work at all?
how come the right terminal works regardless of whether the fuse is in or not, whereas the left doesn;t work at all?
#16
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 09:34 PM
Im not sure of what you did, consequently not sure we have a working fuse. The fuse is basically a piece of wire that completes the circuit. If taken out of the circuit, one side will be at 12V, the other at OV. When you put it in both sides should be at 12V.
So please do the last test suggested.
So please do the last test suggested.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 05 July 2006 - 09:37 PM.
#17
_oikurtman_
_oikurtman_
-
- Guests
Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:34 PM
got it all sorted. there was a wire shorting out behind the dash. as soon as i freed it, all my lights came back, thankg god!
thanks for your help devil's.
thanks for your help devil's.
#18
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 06 July 2006 - 01:16 AM
Good, not sure i understand what's shorted where there......but poking around in that area got the prob solved....well done.
#19
Dangerous
-
- Members
-
- 948 posts
Forum Fixture
- Location:Adelaide, SA
- Joined: 14-November 05
Posted 18 July 2006 - 01:32 PM
Sounds like the old "Stop/Tail/Dome/Horn" fuse problem. It usually blows because of a trailer plug short, stereo illumination short, or water in the tail lights or number plate lights. In your case oikurtman, it sounds like a dash illumination or stereo illumination wire was shorted to earth?
With the fusebox, you basically have two rows of fuses. From memory, every single fuse in an LC or LH series Torana is powered from the inner connection, ie the side of the fuse that is closest to the centre of the fusebox. Therefore when you test the inner connection of the fuse or fuse holder, you will always see +12 volts if that particular bunch of circuits is active. Some of the fuses are always active, such as the stop/tail/dome/horn, and some only become active when you turn the ignition key, such as the heater, radio, etc.
The fuses when in place connect the inner connections on the fusebox with the outer connections on the fusebox. All of the outer connections are the ones that supply power to the various circuits - you will not see any voltage on these unless there is voltage on the corresponding inner conector, and the fuse is in place and not blown.
Hope that helps to explain what you were measuring. With the two green wires, if they are a light green and a dark green pair, they are probably for your reversing lights, and you will have a corresponding switch for them on your gearbox, shifter or bottom of steering column, depending on what type of trans and shifter you have. If it's a single dark green wire and it's a factory one, it's probably your temperature sender wire.
With the fusebox, you basically have two rows of fuses. From memory, every single fuse in an LC or LH series Torana is powered from the inner connection, ie the side of the fuse that is closest to the centre of the fusebox. Therefore when you test the inner connection of the fuse or fuse holder, you will always see +12 volts if that particular bunch of circuits is active. Some of the fuses are always active, such as the stop/tail/dome/horn, and some only become active when you turn the ignition key, such as the heater, radio, etc.
The fuses when in place connect the inner connections on the fusebox with the outer connections on the fusebox. All of the outer connections are the ones that supply power to the various circuits - you will not see any voltage on these unless there is voltage on the corresponding inner conector, and the fuse is in place and not blown.
Hope that helps to explain what you were measuring. With the two green wires, if they are a light green and a dark green pair, they are probably for your reversing lights, and you will have a corresponding switch for them on your gearbox, shifter or bottom of steering column, depending on what type of trans and shifter you have. If it's a single dark green wire and it's a factory one, it's probably your temperature sender wire.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
