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LX Hatch Chassis Alignment Check

Chassis Alignment Check

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#1 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 08:18 PM

Apologies ahead of time..... because I know I have seen this on the forum somewhere but cannot locate it and I am not sure if this is the most appropriate forum

 

Based on some of the bodgey repairs I have uncovered I suspect that my hatch at some stage may have been shunted in the rear and I want to check if the chassis is still in alignment, and if not I may need to take it to a repair shop with an alignment jig.

 

Don't really want to do that just to be told its all OK.

 

I have seen a Diagram that someone posted that had the check points and dimensions. 

 

I would appreciate if anyone could assist with a link or advice on how to check alignment

 

Cheers

 

Dave



#2 rodomo

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 08:44 PM

I hope this works?

 

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#3 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 07:39 AM

Thanks RODOMO..... very much appreciated



#4 _sloffador_

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 06:14 PM

Hey Dave have you got your car back home yet



#5 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 09:19 AM

Yes Pete, got it home last Tuesday.... a couple of small dramas... had to get it dipped a second time. The whole car was covered in surface rust after 6 weeks.... contrary to the advice I got that it would be OK for about 12 to 18 months. To their credit there was no arguments about getting it redone at their cost... really happy with Tony at RECOAT..... this time I had him put it straight into etch primer before I took delivery the second time. The only thing he could put it down to was that I am on the coast at Nowra NSW. He showed me some of the cars that have been sitting in his workshop in bare metal for longer that 6 months and they all seemed free of any signs of rust.

 

I will update my Build thread with a couple of photo's soon... been a bit slack in that department.



#6 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 22 February 2014 - 05:50 PM

Its taken me a while but I have taken most of the measurements and I think that I am OK but I would appreciate the opinion of the EX SPURTS on the forum, can anyone see any reason for concern with the alignment of the chassis????????????

 

My Measurements are in ORANGE next to the manufacturers drawing measures

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#7 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 05:07 PM

Bump....... No comments??????



#8 _sloffador_

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 05:48 PM

How did you measure the rails



#9 purrlx

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 05:54 PM

some are close few mm which should be good

some about 40mm don't know how much tolerance built with, a few about 20mm out

really need some panel beater advice

assume you measured a few times to double check



#10 Rockoz

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Posted 25 February 2014 - 06:06 PM

Make sure you have been measuring to centre of holes, and the correct holes.

Would be making up a measuring stick with perfect right angles as well for the points of differing heights



#11 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 08:01 PM

I made the measurements using a string line with a heavy weight on the end. I held the string in the center of the applicable hole and let the string drop to the Shed floor. Marked the floor and them used a metal measuring tape to take the measurements.



#12 Rockoz

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Posted 26 February 2014 - 08:49 PM

Think I can see the problem.

Shes had a tap at some stage.

Check the roof near the B pillars.

Is there a slight dent at all?

Or evidence of a repair in that area?

Is the lower section of chassis perfectly parralel to the floor?

If it wasnt there will be some discrepancy in the measurements particularly to the front end



#13 _sloffador_

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 05:46 PM

Dave I looked at your car when it was at Re-Coat and I could see it has had a couple of taps (unfortunately not good for you)



#14 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 06:46 PM

Thanks Guys,

 

No evidence of any repairs at the B pillar but you are correct Pete and Rob, it has had a couple of taps and someone has attempted to straighten it up. So I am trying to see how good a job they have done.....or not. 

 

In examining the chassis rails, on the Driver side at the point at which the chassis rail bends to come up in front of the fire wall there is a hairline crack across the rail that is about 30mm long. It is really close to what looks like a crush tube in the chassis rail. Once I am sure the chassis is straight I will get it welded up. In addition there are some very bodgey repairs on the Driver side at the point at wgich the Radiator support panel and the inner guard meet. The Drivers side of the Radiator support panel looks like a sheet of paper that has been crumpled and then straightened. Luckily I have got my hands on another Radiator support panel that is in good nick.

 

Rob,

 

Not sure on how to check the lower section for parallel to the ground, any suggestions??????



#15 tuxedoss

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 07:40 PM

The crack where the rear of the k frame bolts up is common and is just fatigue nothing to do with being in an accident. Both of mine had a small crack there, one side I welded up and the other I replaced that part of the rail with a good one from a donor as many rears ago I took the car to a panel beater due to a crack and they decided it must be rusted and did a very ordinary repair with new metal

#16 _sloffador_

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 07:46 PM

Dave do what I did , put the car on stands get yourself a laser plumb-bob mark all the points to the floor and draw yourself a centre line

then measure from there

A white marker pen was good for marking points on chassis rails put some masking tape over holes and mark centres

Mark all rail points then draw a centre line and see what measures up



#17 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 07:56 PM

Thanks Brett nice to know that I don't need to worry tooooo much about the cracking

 

Pete, I will look for a laser plumb bob and take the measurements again on the weekend.... will re post 



#18 Rockoz

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 09:36 PM

What I did was cheating but achieves the same result.

I clamped square tube to the lower part of the chassis rail keeping it straight.

Ran that out to the front and took measurements that way.

Alternative is measure to ground from the chassis.

Crossmember area and rear k frame area would be points to measure from.

Think most of what you need to do can be done with a porta power without much drama.



#19 Rockoz

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Posted 27 February 2014 - 09:38 PM

While you have the tape measure out do the diagonals of your door openings, windscreen and engine bay.

Will give a better idea of where to start pushing.






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