41 replies to this topic

[MODNIZD]

Hi guys, my new concrete pad is nearly dry so time to put a sealer on it or paint it.

 

I have spent hours searching the net and asking the shops and its only confused me more.

 

Can anyone recommend a DYI coating that is durable and wont be affected by Oil, degreaser, and maybe brake fluid if I manage to spill some? Something that also wont lift with warm tyres.

 

I have 70sqm to cover.

 

Cheers!

 

 

 

[Ice]

I can get you the name of one if you like i used it on mine years ago its still like brand new

[MODNIZD]

That would be great Gene.

[torana_nick]

There is 2 part epoxy products these days. Goes on realy thick. I have seen it in a few garages but not sure on what it is exactly.

[madtoranajzedded]

was going to buy this stuff epoxy with hardener ,is chemical resistant,and high compact resistant  ljzedded 133.jpg   575.53K   10 downloads,$120 for 4ltr with hardener or $450 for 20ltrs,not cheap,heaps of other stuff there too

 

 

 

Maz

[Dr Terry]

The 2-part epoxy paint is the best by far. I've used it in my last 3 business premises.

 

One point though, it can be slippery if wet or oily. They sell a 'grit' type additive to overcome this & it makes the finish more grippy. I would highly recommend it.

 

Dr Terry

[orangeLJ]

Having just finished the last coat on my slab, I'm well placed to answer this!

Did lots of research and asked a heap of friends, ex work colleagues etc.

I used to work for a place that manufactured container forks, the stuff they used was always easy to put down and put up with 100+ tonnes of forklift driving on it straight from the gravel yard.

So I figured it would be good enough!

Bondall garage and factory floor paint.

Comes in one colour (granite gray)

Single pack. Turps based paint.

$150 for 10 litres.

First coat goes down 20% diluted with turps.

I did three coats on my slab (6x6 shed, so 36m^2)

And still had just under a litre left out of the ten litre tub.

Make sure you acid etch the floor first. I just bought a couple litres of liquid hydrochloric, hosed the slab, mixed the acid 10:1 in a watering can and spread it around, gave it a push/scrub with a broom as I went, then hosed it all off and squeegeed it dry.

Masters were the only place locally that stocked the bondall floor paint though.

Also, there were some really good reviews of the stuff all over the net (in terms of longevity)

[Ice]

Becareful with the acid etching it will rust the steel real easy

[sibhs]

I highly recommend this product. Used it on four floors so far, super tough, well priced, and looks shmick. It's been on my totally abused floor for two and a half years. You get about 40sqm for $100. 8 litres. Available at bunnings.
www. dymark.com.au

Edited by sibhs, 10 February 2014 - 08:33 PM.

[MODNIZD]

Having just finished the last coat on my slab, I'm well placed to answer this!

Did lots of research and asked a heap of friends, ex work colleagues etc.

I used to work for a place that manufactured container forks, the stuff they used was always easy to put down and put up with 100+ tonnes of forklift driving on it straight from the gravel yard.

So I figured it would be good enough!

Bondall garage and factory floor paint.

Comes in one colour (granite gray)

Single pack. Turps based paint.

$150 for 10 litres.

First coat goes down 20% diluted with turps.

I did three coats on my slab (6x6 shed, so 36m^2)

And still had just under a litre left out of the ten litre tub.

Make sure you acid etch the floor first. I just bought a couple litres of liquid hydrochloric, hosed the slab, mixed the acid 10:1 in a watering can and spread it around, gave it a push/scrub with a broom as I went, then hosed it all off and squeegeed it dry.

Masters were the only place locally that stocked the bondall floor paint though.

Also, there were some really good reviews of the stuff all over the net (in terms of longevity)

 

I have done a little looking into this. Looks like it gets some good reviews. Did you add some sand or beads to help with slip? Apparently it is one of the more slippery paints.

 

 

I highly recommend this product. Used it on four floors so far, super tough, well priced, and looks shmick. It's been on my totally abused floor for two and a half years. You get about 40sqm for $100. 8 litres. Available at bunnings.
www. dymark.com.au

 

I did look at this. The Epoxy? Comes in a box? Its $200 for about 38sqm making it $400 for my shed.

 

Becareful with the acid etching it will rust the steel real easy

 

I will have to put some sand up against the steel then to keep the acid away. 

 

 

23 days and counting since the slab went down. I just want to get in there! Hurry up and harden slab!

[71xu1]

I wouldn't think you would need to acid etch a new floor only existing floors that have had some traffic on them.

[orangeLJ]

Nope, concreter said acid etch was essential to avoid any lifting with hot tyres etc.

The final surface on the slab isn't porous enough to allow the paint to penetrate and bond.

The bond all stuff has a fine non slip through it. Walked on my finished surface for the first time last night. Very much doubt it would be slippery, even when wet.

Maybe if you had a big oil spill? But anything that is gloss enough for easy clean up, is going to be slippery with oil

[Bart]

Ask the concreter but you may have to wait a while for concrete to cure properly, i think about a month before you put on coating on. 

[MODNIZD]

Yep I got told I had to wait at least 28 days.

[Ice]

Phil that product marty put up is the one i was talking about not that expensive and a good product
with the acid wash not to strong maybe 5 parts water 1 part acid and give it a good scrub after with clean water because acid does leave a residue
then rinse again with clean water
let dry then knock your socks off

[orangeLJ]

Concteter recommended 10:1 mix water:acid

Once its done its thing (like 5 minutes, you'll see it stop bubbling) just hose it all down and see where you've missed , repeat the process till its all done.
.I did my 6x6 in 4 sections.

Then left it a full week to dry out again before painting.

[Ice]

10 to 1 is to weak tell the concreter to stick to concrete coz they cant even get that right i know i have to follow the work every day

[Evan]

Hi Phil.

 

I was in the same boat as you and my neighbor who owns a mechanical workshop recommended me the Cameleon product.

He has had it on his floor for over 10 years and it still looks great with everyday use.

As the others say, you need to acid etch the floor.  

 

Got it from Cameleon paints in Malaga (next to Auto One)

 

CampoxyEFT560

 

Basically like covering your floor with a 2 part epoxy araldite.

 

I did it myself and it was a little more than other products (about $470 for 74 sqm including acid, brushes and rollers)

 

I am very happy with it. Feel free to pop over and have a look.

 

Evan.

[StephenSLR]

How about this idea?

 

 

 

 

Then there's this, which I've seen recently on a forum, someone in Aus. had it done.

 

 

http://www.concretea...tallicepoxy.htm

 

Or this, lol.

 

 

http://www.honestone...oring-solution/

 

A popular one is those black and white vinyl tiles for that chequerboard effect.

 

s

Edited by StephenSLR, 05 March 2014 - 02:04 PM.

[sibhs]

Ok, I give up! What are the holes in the ground?
Can't imagine a double shallow pit like that.

[MODNIZD]

Ok, I give up! What are the holes in the ground?
Can't imagine a double shallow pit like that.

 

I was thinking the same thing.

[orangeLJ]

Belly hoist/ scissor hoist?