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Steering

Started by _youngy_11_ , Jul 08 2006 07:15 PM

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16 replies to this topic

#1 _youngy_11_

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Posted 08 July 2006 - 07:15 PM

hi,
I have got the front end loosened but aren't sure how to dismantle the steering column??

Also what is the best way to get the brake hoses off the front callipers, because i tried undoing the nut arrangement in the top of the wheel arch where it is changed from the flexible hose to the metal pipe hose and in the process twisted the metal pipe and broke it :cry:

.

thanks ryan

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#2 _youngy_11_

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Posted 08 July 2006 - 08:08 PM

i got the brake hoses off. i didn't notice the spacer neck holding it to the small 90 degree bracket in the wheel arch. I have had a quick read of the manual i have and i think i have to take the cotter pins out which i did quickly try before. But it says i need a proper tool??? and not too use a hammer because it may wreck the bearing which i did.

ryan

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#3 surfmaster

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Posted 08 July 2006 - 08:15 PM

You should never hit anything in the steering column with a hammer, particularly the shaft and associated bits. Blunt force on this bit will collapse the shaft.

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#4 FastEHHolden

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Posted 08 July 2006 - 09:17 PM

You could try a small G clamp but I brace it against a piece of wood and drive them out with a brass drift.

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#5 _youngy_11_

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 08:26 AM

Yea that sounds like a good method. But is this the only way to dismantle it. Surely someone knows how??

thanks ryan

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#6 _Flamenco_

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 11:38 AM

I think you need to be a bit more specific! Do you just mean 'take the steering column out of the car' or 'dismantle the column totally - steering shaft, bearings, brackets etc'.

To take it out of the car you just need to undo four bolts at the firewall where the column goes through, 3 bolts under the dash where the colapsible bracket is, the cotter pins need to be removed where the flexible coupling is and lastly the plugs for the indicators etc need to be unplugged before removing the whole column...
Without the proper tool for the cotter pins (which is hard to come by!) FastEH's method would be about the best....

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#7 _youngy_11_

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 12:42 PM

Thanks Flamenco, yes sorry i just want to take it out of the car so that i can roll the front end out from under neath the jacked up hatch.
I am away for the next few days so will have another go when i get back.

Anyone else have any other tips???

ryan

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#8 _user asked to be removed_

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 03:03 PM

You should never hit anything in the steering column with a hammer, particularly the shaft and associated bits. Blunt force on this bit will collapse the shaft.

Does it just callapse? What if you were in a car crash? Or isn't it like that?

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#9 FastEHHolden

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 05:41 PM

if the shaft is hit with enough force it will slide up and down..it wont collapse as in fall down.... the black tube has to be bent.

If anyone needs..I have a good steering shaft and outer tube from a UC

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#10 LX2DR

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 07:36 PM

You could try a small G clamp

This idea will work, i tried it this afternoon, mine felt a little sloppy so i put a small G clamp on it with a socket bigger than the nut and pushed it in enough to stop the slop.
Took the clamp off and gently tightened the nut.
Had moved it enough to get a full turn!

You should be able to do the reverse to take it out.

Paul

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#11 LX2DR

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Posted 18 July 2006 - 12:39 PM

You could try a small G clamp
This idea will work, i tried it this afternoon, mine felt a little sloppy so i put a small G clamp on it with a socket bigger than the nut and pushed it in enough to stop the slop.
Took the clamp off and gently tightened the nut.
Had moved it enough to get a full turn!

You should be able to do the reverse to take it out.

Paul

Dragged out my spare column last night and tried with the G clamp and a nut to push against.

Worked a treat, this cotter must have been the original install.

After 1/2 a turn the thing made a loud bang and the cotter was out, no damage to the cotter, its thread or the nut.

Point about the nut is i left it on, level with the end of the thread to protect it and give a decent surface to push on.

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#12 _youngy_11_

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Posted 18 July 2006 - 05:51 PM

Yea we tried the g clamp and it got one of them out, but couldn't remove the other.
So we are going to soak the pin in penetreme and see if that will lossen them up.

Yes thats good practice to have the nut level with the pin because you can always replace the nut easily but the pins from what i have read are like $20 lol.

My dad also got another one of the pins out by using the hammer. But he recons he gently worked the pin out with the penetreme a block brace and light tapping by the hammer. I swear those pins in my column must have been way tighter/seized than yours but i know for now. lol

Thanks Heaps

Ryan

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#13 laspy

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Posted 18 July 2006 - 09:03 PM

hey ppl

im in the middle of removing my steering column. I have unbolted the whole column the only problem i am having is removing the column either at the knuckle or at the coupling. There is a bolt that goes through the steering knuckle with a circular head and a nut on it. I have tried gently hitting this but it will not budge. Should i attempt to take it out from the coupling? i havnt played with these before and am unsure of how to take it apart. What is the best way to free the column down in the engine bay? (kunckle and coupling)

cheers

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#14 laspy

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Posted 18 July 2006 - 09:52 PM

the problem im having with the pin in the knuckle is that when i hit it the knuckle moves and absorbes the force. I can jam anything behind it becoz it will put dents in my extractors. Any ideas?

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#15 FastEHHolden

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Posted 19 July 2006 - 12:41 PM

Thats the cotter pin that is discussed in this thread....scroll up and have a look at the suggestions for not hitting it.

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#16 _Yella SLuR_

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Posted 19 July 2006 - 02:00 PM

He is talking the flexible coupling. If it is an original one, then no chance of getting the pins out, they need to be drilled, and then changed to a bolt up type if going to nylothane, instructions included in pack. So basically if you have an old type coupling, you aren't going to get it off. Which means you have to go the uni-joint and cotter pins.

They are always nice and firm at the best of times, and alway a pain to get out.

Edited by Yella SLuR, 19 July 2006 - 02:02 PM.

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#17 _youngy_11_

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Posted 19 July 2006 - 03:58 PM

Yea i think i have the universal joint with the pins that cannot be removed. Yes those bloody cotter pins are tough little fellas mainly because they have a V in them which squezes them in there.

Anyway all knowledge.
Ryan