Hi guys got a small brake prob hopeing the mighty dattoman
or someone might shed some light on it!
Basically the brakes are all new or rebuilt and work ok just
they dont have any "bite" so to speak it requires quite a push to
slow from any speed tryed bleeding of the vacume and
starting car with foot on pedal and it definatley dropped so i think
the booster is working the new m/cyl is n alloy one as opposed
to the original steel one with big nut
help!!!!!
Sad brakes
Started by
_2 turbo hz_
, Jul 13 2006 04:30 PM
16 replies to this topic
#2
dattoman
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Posted 13 July 2006 - 05:13 PM
Supercheap pads ?
#3
_2 turbo hz_
_2 turbo hz_
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Posted 13 July 2006 - 07:29 PM
Nah running metal king pads now but previously standard dba
pads for the pbr callipers
Just did a test with a pressure gauge in the bleed nipple hole
in calliper about 500psi with a good push on pedal engine off
And about 1000psi with engine running
Would that be about normal?
Cheers for responding
Chris
pads for the pbr callipers
Just did a test with a pressure gauge in the bleed nipple hole
in calliper about 500psi with a good push on pedal engine off
And about 1000psi with engine running
Would that be about normal?
Cheers for responding
Chris
#4
_2 turbo hz_
_2 turbo hz_
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Posted 13 July 2006 - 07:38 PM
Oops forgot to say that i changed pads on the advice of the brake
parts place but it made no real difference to my problem
parts place but it made no real difference to my problem
#5
dattoman
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Posted 14 July 2006 - 12:11 AM
Output pressures are fine
I would have thought it was a friction issue but if you have done the pad change that might not be it
The discs aren't glazed are they ?
I would have thought it was a friction issue but if you have done the pad change that might not be it
The discs aren't glazed are they ?
#6
_2 turbo hz_
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Posted 14 July 2006 - 03:25 PM
Nah i dont think so they were new replacement rotors (dba014)
i think
The friction faces of the disc are a nice smooth dull grey colour
not at all shiny (im presuming thats what glazed means)
Normally holden brakes are awesome so its got me
buggered whats going on?
Cheers Chris
i think
The friction faces of the disc are a nice smooth dull grey colour
not at all shiny (im presuming thats what glazed means)
Normally holden brakes are awesome so its got me
buggered whats going on?
Cheers Chris
#7
dattoman
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Posted 14 July 2006 - 09:34 PM
any chance of a couple of pics ?
#8
_2 turbo hz_
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Posted 15 July 2006 - 10:05 PM
Yep if i can work out how to post them!
Pics of any part in particular?
Pics of any part in particular?
#9
dattoman
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Posted 17 July 2006 - 12:14 AM
Discs,calipers etc
I just want to see if everything "looks" right
I just want to see if everything "looks" right
#10
_2 turbo hz_
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Posted 22 July 2006 - 11:06 AM
Sorry been busy lately cant workout how to post my pics
How do you post pictures in this forum?
Cheers Chris
How do you post pictures in this forum?
Cheers Chris
#11
_hrt1and2_
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#12
Tiny
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Posted 22 July 2006 - 12:57 PM
Chris: I put a hoppers stoppers kit on the HQ with ferodo pads as per dattomans reccomendation and found a similar problem.. It sorts felt like i had no "bite"...
I drove around for ages being "nice" to the brakes.. untill i went to the Sydney Car festival then a skid pan day wehre i absolutely CAINED the whole car... Since then the brakes have felt awesome with heaps more bite! I'm thinking i was a bit too nice and glazed the disks and the hard use ( abuse?) cleared it up!
Maybe you just need to give it a good workout!?
Best of luck!
I drove around for ages being "nice" to the brakes.. untill i went to the Sydney Car festival then a skid pan day wehre i absolutely CAINED the whole car... Since then the brakes have felt awesome with heaps more bite! I'm thinking i was a bit too nice and glazed the disks and the hard use ( abuse?) cleared it up!
Maybe you just need to give it a good workout!?
Best of luck!
#13
_82911_
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Posted 23 July 2006 - 09:54 AM
Turbo HZ....
might be worth a thorough bedding session as Tiny has pointed out!
STEPS:
*accelerate to 40MPH in a quiet area, when it is safe to do so, perform a stop using a medium pedal effort. Do this twice more.
*Now raise your speed to 60MPH and perform a stop using moderately more pedal effort. Do this 3 times.
*Now do the same stop from 60MPH but use as much effort as you can on the pedal without locking the wheels......
* don't touch the pedal after that...(if you can help it!) let the brakes cool back to ambient temp.DO NOT SIT STILL WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE PEDAL.
That should burn out the bonding resin in the pads and stop the "outgassing" which makes the friction material slipery.
***please use due care when doing this... use a quiet area (industrial on weekend?) and make sure that your car will stop in a straight line under heavy breaking BEFORE you do any of the high speed stops.
Cheers Greg..
might be worth a thorough bedding session as Tiny has pointed out!
STEPS:
*accelerate to 40MPH in a quiet area, when it is safe to do so, perform a stop using a medium pedal effort. Do this twice more.
*Now raise your speed to 60MPH and perform a stop using moderately more pedal effort. Do this 3 times.
*Now do the same stop from 60MPH but use as much effort as you can on the pedal without locking the wheels......
* don't touch the pedal after that...(if you can help it!) let the brakes cool back to ambient temp.DO NOT SIT STILL WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE PEDAL.
That should burn out the bonding resin in the pads and stop the "outgassing" which makes the friction material slipery.
***please use due care when doing this... use a quiet area (industrial on weekend?) and make sure that your car will stop in a straight line under heavy breaking BEFORE you do any of the high speed stops.
Cheers Greg..
#14
makka
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Posted 24 July 2006 - 01:37 PM
and if you cant go and do what Greg said, you can use an old rotor a clamp and an oxy torch. clamp the pads to the rotor and heat it up with the oxy (not right where the pads are!) then remove the pads and let them sit for a while and cool down.
I would recommend Gregs way though
I would recommend Gregs way though
#15
Tiny
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Posted 24 July 2006 - 09:06 PM
Or you can go hammer it on the skidpan.. Lots of fun 
HAHAH
No greg's method would definitely work! Eyes in the back of your head for that one!!
One Question ive always wondered on heat dissipation... How long would it take of driving at moderate speeds ( say 50-60Kph) for the brakes to return to "ambient" temp like you mentioned? would it be 5 mins? or till they stop smokin
Good advise Greg! Cheers!
HAHAHNo greg's method would definitely work! Eyes in the back of your head for that one!!
One Question ive always wondered on heat dissipation... How long would it take of driving at moderate speeds ( say 50-60Kph) for the brakes to return to "ambient" temp like you mentioned? would it be 5 mins? or till they stop smokin
Good advise Greg! Cheers!
#16
_2 turbo hz_
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Posted 26 July 2006 - 08:05 PM
Cheers Guys
Not like i need a good excuse to give the wagon a
hammering but it makes sense the brakes only have
500km on them and all road driving
Still working on the pics but thanks for the ideas
Wish we had a local skid pan!
Cheers Chris
Not like i need a good excuse to give the wagon a
hammering but it makes sense the brakes only have
500km on them and all road driving
Still working on the pics but thanks for the ideas
Wish we had a local skid pan!
Cheers Chris
#17
gtrboyy
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Posted 26 July 2006 - 09:18 PM
I had to do the same thing when I put ultimate pads on the frt & back of my vt ss.I drove it like an old lady lol.
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