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308 Thermostat Housing,leaking!

can not stop it leaking??

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#1 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 04:49 PM

Im having problems with my Thermostat housing on the 308 ,leaking all the time,I had one of those Chrome  redline thermo housings that was troublesome for leaking a little,so I took it off then put a stock thermo housing back on and used one of those felt type gaskets with silastic,it leaked. I took it all off and bought another gasket and some better silastic,when I got home  from the shop I noticed the gasket was adhesive on one side?,I tried it anyways after getting the intake manifold surface flat but today it leaked out again.

 

I don't know what the problem is here?,it just will NOT seal!



#2 Mort

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 09:40 PM

Just a thought, have you checked to see if the mounting surfaces are level.......maybe the housing has a little warp or not cast flat and the same with the intake manifold.

 

I used Blue Max sealant (blue goo) on both sides of the gasket on mine to make sure it sealed, i also run a file over the mounting surface of the housing and manifold to make sure they were level.



#3 76lxhatch

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Posted 09 August 2014 - 11:39 PM

Those chrome ones are horrible things, they warp easily (and quickly). I wonder if perhaps cranking that up repeatedly has warped the manifold surface? I'd try sanding it with a flat metal block or something to try and get it back if that's the case. Same applies to the new housing as Mort says, if its not flat - glass is good for checking whether flat or not.

#4 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 10 August 2014 - 01:34 AM

also make sure u suck out some water from the inlet manifold once you have it apart so no water is going to ruin your seal.

if both surfaces are flat and true as above goo up both sides of the gasket, not crap loads so it ends up everywhere. it will foul up your thermostat.  just a lite smear all over is enough

make sure all surfaces are dry and clean. let it dry 24hrs before u fill it back up.



#5 rexy

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Posted 10 August 2014 - 08:21 AM

Bolts too long? Have you checked that the edge of the thermo housing isn't catching on the manifold somewhere preventing it clamping properly?

#6 _LHSL308_

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Posted 10 August 2014 - 11:38 AM

Be careful torquing it down too as the manifolds are made of alloy which threads easily. 



#7 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 10 August 2014 - 11:48 AM

Will have another go today after making sure both surfaces are indeed flat,bolts definitely are not too long. I had stripped one of the holes before and had to re thread the hole and install a slightly bigger bolt but they definitely are tightening ok.



#8 Mort

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Posted 10 August 2014 - 10:13 PM

How did you go Scott, did you find the problem.



#9 Rockoz

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Posted 10 August 2014 - 11:36 PM

Check for level on housing and manifold. Double check that the thermostat is seated in its spot properly.

Best sealant I have used is Wurth Red Hi Temp.

Have used it instead of valley gaskets on Holden and Chev V8s with no leaks.

Have seen it used to seal up all sorts of things without dismantling as well.

Used it on a sump and needed a cricket bat to break the seal but then it cleaned up easily afterward.

Its pretty magic stuff and havent found anything quite as good as it.



#10 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 16 August 2014 - 10:26 PM

Ok guys.....I had another go at this and it leaked again,We draw filed the Manifold  flat,cleaned up all the surfaces with contact cleaner ,wiped it with clean tissue then I made  a new gasket with the proper material and that "Permatex Ultra Blue Silicone" tested it out today,got home and ARGHHHHH!! its weeping out coolant again,very,very slowly but its still leaking!?.Now I have to take it apart ,clean it up and try again,this will be the 3rd or 4th time!!?


Edited by 76S.L.R, 16 August 2014 - 10:28 PM.


#11 rexy

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Posted 16 August 2014 - 10:55 PM

Can you see the exact spot where it's leaking?
Sure it's not dribbling does from the hose connections or out an area of manifold/ housing porosity?
If in doubt, run the car after wiping it clean and watch like a hawk.

#12 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 16 August 2014 - 10:57 PM

Now I have to take it apart ,clean it up and try again,this will be the 3rd or 4th time!!?

 

Don't do that, if you keep doing the same thing you'll keep getting the same result. Before you take it off again clean it thoroughly then get the engine good and hot so you can see where it's coming from. Keep wiping and looking until you locate it exactly. The blue silicone will usually seal fairly uneven surfaces so unless your file-work is very sloppy non-flat surfaces are unlikely to be the problem. Clean the bolt holes out thoroughly and make sure the holes don't break through at the bottom. Put a long bolt in and wiggle it round and check for fine cracks from the holes as you wiggle. If the leak is from a bolt hole use some 567 or 518 on the bolt thread. Check very carefully for tiny cracks or holes (casting porosity) in both the manifold and the thermo housing.

 

Edit: rexy beat me to it



#13 Mort

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Posted 16 August 2014 - 10:59 PM

Do you have another housing other than the chrome one or able to borrow one to try, maybe the one you are using has a pin hole in it or maybe porous.

 

You could try fitting the housing to another engine, i know it's a lot of frOcking around but it might give you an idea if it's your housing thats the problem or your manifold.



#14 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 17 August 2014 - 01:59 PM

No the Housing Im using is a standard one from Repco,I chucked out the Chrome one a few weeks ago,Its dripping out of the back section of the Thermostat Housing / Manifold( closest side to carby and bang in the middle of the Thermostat Housing). Its not to do with the Bolt Holes,ive checked those out, if I could post pics on here I would but these days I cant seem to post up pics on here anymore?,use to work fine by just pasting Photobucket pics on here



#15 _UCLX_

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Posted 17 August 2014 - 09:55 PM

Well, I thought that I was the only one having the unsolvable leaking thermo housing.

Have been having this issue for past 5 years.

 

Done mine about 10 times, and have checked all of the possibilities that the above correspondents have mentioned, including removing the valley cover and milling the thermo face and deepening the counter-bore.

Have heli-coiled the threads to OEM dimensions. 

Am using genuine Holden nos thermo housing.

 

A couple of things that I have noticed.

1. Have tried various types of gasket paper - all leak.

2. Have tried various types of sealant - all leak.

3. IT ONLY LEAKS DURING THE COLDEST MONTHS, that is around about now.

4. Leak is minimal with NO gasket and a thin smear of black RTV.

 

MY PRESENT THEORY.

I think that the coolant is eating the gaskets, and reacting somehow with the sealant.

The coolant that I put in about 5 years ago is the long life orange Holden/Toyota stuff.

Coolant is due to be changed, and I will use the tectalloy stuff that I used to use prior.

 

Will put another gasket in when I do the coolant change. (When I get motivated)

 

Cheers,

Daryl.



#16 Rockoz

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Posted 17 August 2014 - 10:36 PM

What brand sealant are you using?



#17 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 17 August 2014 - 11:07 PM

UCLX ......So im not the only one with this problem! but you have gone far further than me to solve the issue,Im using the Red Toyota Coolant and I think these problems got worse for me when I started using it?



#18 Oversteer

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Posted 17 August 2014 - 11:25 PM

Devcon will fix it if your desperate... won't be that hard to remove if need be, just clean surface to carby cleaner, no gasket and allow to dry for 12+ hours before filling.

 

If that doesn't work it has to porous somewhere or something !



#19 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 07:10 AM

Use 518 with no gasket (providing the thermo recess is still deep enough after filing the top face). And make sure the thermo has the little bleed hole so that you don't get a big temp difference between the housing and manifold. I had this exact same problem as well with a Chev, tried a couple of different housings but it never completely stopped until I made a steel one. The OEMs use an O-ring these days, it would allow a bit of movement without leaking. Come to think of it a steel shim with a hole big enough to take an o-ring that's just slightly thicker than the shim would probably work well too.

 

The red coolant does seem a bit more prone to leaking to me - even if it doesn't actually leak you often see a pink crust around the ends of the hoses and other joints.



#20 Shiney005

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 08:44 AM

Sounds like the inhibitor is the common denominator here. Going the opposite way is even worse. Mt father used the Tectaloy green inhibitor in his near new Landcruiser and three weeks later the radiator looked like a sponge. There were tiny little pin pricks all through the core.

#21 _The Baron_

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 12:24 PM

Is the system over pressurizing at some point due to a faulty cap?

Is there force being applied by the top radiator hose?

I have the tiniest leak that occurs some time later after the run when it should be cooling down? It pools in the recess under the throttle bracket.

I just keep an eye on the coolant levels now and just drive it.

For the sake of my sanity I look at this way, leakage (weeping) indicates there is fluid present so all must be OK. You know the old school approach to a Holden.

#22 EunUCh

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 05:27 PM

Is the housing itself flat ?,never used coolants other than water,never had a problem with the gaskets and some permatex or loctite aviation goo #3 let to soak in for few minutes before pulling down bolts then nip up a bit after running. 


Edited by EunUCh, 18 August 2014 - 05:27 PM.


#23 _UCLX_

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 09:44 PM

76S.L.R, I have been told that the "Red" Toyota coolant is the same formula as the "Orange" Holden coolant, but with different dye.

 

Sounds like we have a common enemy, as per Shiney005's comment.

 

For the previous 25 or so years, I have used Series 500 and Tectalloy coolants with no problems.

 

Five years ago, I thought that it would be a real good idea to use "genuine Holden coolant"

 

Now, I don't think that was real smart.

 

Cheers,

Daryl.



#24 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 10:10 PM

Well there you go,Im not the only one who thinks the Toyota coolant is more prone to causing leaks!?,mine was only just weeping out a bit at the back of the thermostat housing ,last night I just put a blob of the Silastic over the weeping part,I'll do more testing this week sometime


Edited by 76S.L.R, 18 August 2014 - 10:12 PM.


#25 _SableMet7/73_

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Posted 22 August 2014 - 03:05 PM

Few different approaches to a common problem, so I'll add mine.
same thing on my chev, recovery system, blah blah tried the ultra blu
& others. Kilkenny? housing looked like it was finished with a rasp file
so flat sand & oil stoned it & the manifold. Wanted to be kind to the manifold
threads so got some threaded rod, cut 2 studs & locktite them in (optional).
Cut a new gasket & sprayed both sides with HYLOMAR head gasket spray & let dry.
Lower the coolant level to ensure alls dry & clean, wipe with carby clean/metho
then assemble. Left it till next day to fill...problem solvered. well worked for me.
This was 5/6 years ago so have flushed a couple times since but still OK.
Been in storeage for a bit & not started lately (slack as) & is now only looking like
weeping thru gasket very mildly.
I'd previously been using Mitsi coolant, worked for em so free, not available now so
I think theres Nulon in there now that I mix myself to 45-50%.




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