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drivers door hanging down


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#1 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:27 PM

hi guys.ive had this straight drivers dr off an lc 4dr for years so i decided take my original dr off and i dont

believe it the dam thing hangs down at the rear by a good couple cm's lol.the front dr gap to front guard is

near perfect.sorry havnt any pics but will tomorrow .i have never seen a dr hang down that much.ive even

changed the back dr off same vehicle.and that dr is spot on.the original pins came out real good using

wd 40 .and no damage to hinges.has anyone had this prob before and how would i go about fixing it.

 

 

cheers Maz



#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:35 PM

Torana doors are all over the place. 

 

Your better off using the ones off the shell, if possible. 



#3 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 23 September 2014 - 07:51 PM

yeah i thought that dj but at some stage with previous owner the dr must of had a broken check plate spring and the dr has flung

right open and has creased it reasonably bad and been filled with boglini ,can even see a few spots where they have has an

oxy heat up a couple areas..say if its out a couple mil at the hinge would that equate to those 2cms  at the other end.or

would it be best to take the skin off the straight dr and put it on the original one ,would that work ?



#4 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 04:14 PM

here's a pic.can see how much its drooping.and the gaps not bad at front.the pins lined up with hinges

real good.goes to show they are not made one fits all.never had it that much though.i think i will take the

skin off and put on other dr shit.ive just aswered my own question lol.good advice dj on using the orig drsAttached File  ljzedded 337.jpg   130.54K   2 downloadsAttached File  ljzedded 336.jpg   123.12K   1 downloads


Edited by madtoranajzedded, 25 September 2014 - 04:25 PM.


#5 kiwi-lilj

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 04:19 PM

Is the door black and was the picture taken in the dark with no flash ?

#6 Rockoz

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 04:28 PM

May need to bend the hinge hangers a little to get it right.



#7 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 04:29 PM

about 30mins ago blair.ive changed drs before and been out a mil or so .this dr is off an lc.

 

never seen one like this.



#8 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 04:31 PM

.the ones on the dr itself u mean rob



#9 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 04:38 PM

i reckon id have to take both the dr hinges off and reline.wouldnt have a clue how to do it.sorry blair didnt answer all ya question

no flash .stripped dr 4yr ago and ran out of stripper and just left it like that



#10 kiwi-lilj

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 04:42 PM

funny pic did not show on my ipad, but i can see it on my computer, weird.



#11 TOERUNNER

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 04:51 PM

wasn't on my computer first up either



#12 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 05:02 PM

i forgot to put pic up so i used the full editor.that might be the reason why



#13 S pack

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 06:09 PM

The gap between the door and the fender is woeful above the body line.

The top hinge on the pillar needs to be adjusted forward and the bottom hinge needs to be adjusted rearwards to make that door sit right.

Seems that no two doors use the exact same hinge adjustments on these old beasts.

post-45764-0-01579800-1411626191.jpg



#14 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 06:12 PM

I tend to agree. 

 

Quick dodgy to see where your at, put a trolley jack and block of wood under the back corner of the door, sit it on the inner shell not the lip of the skin. 

 

Carefully jack it up and see if it wants to come into shape a bit. 

 

Cheers. 



#15 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 06:32 PM

i agree guys.it is out at top.me looking at it last nite with only a light on lead.never really paid much attention right at the top

 

mmm.... ok .. i will give that ago.and see what happens



#16 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 06:35 PM

I stress the word GENTLY. 



#17 wot179

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 06:37 PM

You could put a bit of heat into the bottom hinge while its under load to give it a hand. 



#18 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 08:19 PM

that was scary,got to the stage im thinking im going to eff it.went up a fraction but no sooner i let the jack down it went back to where it

was.like it wanted to near pull the hinge off where its welded to the door.ive got a little propane torch but ive gone all chicken shit.



#19 Rockoz

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 09:23 PM

Panel beater mate of mine had a tool he made up for doing it.

Pull the door off and bend the whole hinge plate on the pillar forward a touch.

Will be painful. Door off on off on until you get it right.

May need to bend bottom one back a little as well.

May pay to get a bolt to go through the hinge in place of the pin while adjusting.

Wouldnt bother with heat though.



#20 grumpy xu1

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 11:58 AM

Hi maz, you can remove check strap leave door on get a "bluntend" brickie's bolster & hit the top hinge forward keep checking after each hit (have a friend hold the door out at the same time) a bigger hammer being used lighter works smoother & better than flogging it with a smaller hammer believe me. Leaving the door on, ensures all pins are still lined up usually works with no heat. Just take your time. A brickie's bolster can have heaps of uses just file it blunt & cover with masking tape . don't cut the hinge ! Gary.

#21 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 03:31 PM

you are right gary.havnt done any hitting but just to prove you are right ive just taken the top pin out and took some pics


Attached File  ljzedded 339.jpg   101.02K   4 downloadsAttached File  ljzedded 338.jpg   132.88K   5 downloadsAttached File  ljzedded 341.jpg   583.5K   2 downloads

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#22 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 03:44 PM

the door is still down at the rear.and the front gap is i bit small compared to the other side,and a huge gap between the front

and rear drs.i think to get it spot on would take a fair bit of fart arsing about.what im worried abot is that the pillar hinge is

on something like 30 or something degrees and if i start bashing it forward its gonna straighten it and the dr will poke out from

the front gard.wont be flush with guard



#23 S pack

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 05:42 PM

I still think the bottom hinge will need a small rearward adjustment which will lessen slightly the upper hinge forward adjustment. This should open up the gap a little more between the front door and the fender and close the gap a little between the doors. Also, maybe your rear door will need it's adjustment fine tuned to suit? 



#24 wot179

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 06:02 PM

Gapping old Holdens=mental torture



#25 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 06:48 PM

someone should of took the friggin welder off them when they had a chance.bloody cheap skates.that hinge plate is thick as.im going to

need something more than a brickies bolster.more like my steel handled block buster.im gonna frock it i reckon






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