13 replies to this topic

[Potta]

So I'm replacing my shocks all round in the LC with Monroe GT Gas shocks but I can't get the fronts to line up with the hole.

 

On closer inspection, it seems the metal tube that goes through the mount is slightly longer than the old on so it won't fit in gap. We're talking maybe half a mill?

 

The thing is, they've been sitting in my 4 door for 18 months and went in no problem, well, they were a bit fiddly but got there in the end.

 

Question, is it a good idea to grind a bees dick width off each end of the tube to make it fit?

 

Or is there another way?

 

I've tried rubber grease and it makes no difference, its just too big.

 

I plan to do it quickly so I don't heat the rubber too much and also whack some paint over the bit I've ground off.

 

Any other thoughts or tips?

[TOERUNNER]

take half a bees dick  and try again,keep taking half a bees dick until they fit .

someone may have taken 2 bees dicks off the shockies previously and squeezed the top shocky mount together slightly.

cheers Rodney

[S pack]

The shock tower is slightly crushed. Insert a pin punch through the bolt hole and tap the punch with a hammer to dress the metal out a bees dick. Move the punch around the bolt hole to massage the metal as evenly as possible.

Edited by S pack, 05 November 2014 - 10:40 AM.

[Potta]

Ok, cheers guys, a few options there

[N/A-PWR]

Never had a problem in the past,

but Dave has the best option.

[Potta]

Bit of "massaging", bit of grinding with the dremel, and bit of rubber grease and I managed to squeeze one in.

 

One to go lol.

 

Taking a bit longer than I expected but most things do lol.

[Potta]

Did the new shocks fix that noise in the back?

Just curious cause that's what it sounded like to me.

[Potta]

Finally fr0cking done!!
 

So for anyone else who has this problem this is what I did.

 

Tried the bash around inside the hole trick that Dave suggested, I found I couldn't get all around the hole because there were bits of body work etc in the way, and I seemed to be banging pretty hard for little or no progress.

 

So I pulled out the dremel and took a bit off and got that one in.

 

On the second one I just went straight to the dremel but it ground unevenly so I switched to a metal file.

 

About 5 minutes of rubbing across the top and it was done, smooth and flat and fitted in the gap.

 

Just be aware the bolt hole will be full of metal filings.

 

So long story short, Metal file for the win.

[N/A-PWR]

Great Job Craig

where there is a will there is a way.

[Potta]

Yep, sometimes you've just gotta bite the bullet and get it done mate.

[73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON]

Finally fr0cking done!!
 
So for anyone else who has this problem this is what I did.
 
Tried the bash around inside the hole trick that Dave suggested, I found I couldn't get all around the hole because there were bits of body work etc in the way, and I seemed to be banging pretty hard for little or no progress.
 
So I pulled out the dremel and took a bit off and got that one in.
 
On the second one I just went straight to the dremel but it ground unevenly so I switched to a metal file.
 
About 5 minutes of rubbing across the top and it was done, smooth and flat and fitted in the gap.
 
Just be aware the bolt hole will be full of metal filings.
 
So long story short, Metal file for the win.

I am experiencing this same issue ATM...my old shocky top spacer measures 45mm, and new Koni spacer 46mm.
SO will take the already proven advices.

Cheers

Jaso