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Washing the Car


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#1 _jimjet61_

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 12:08 AM

Just wondering what people use to wash their car's? I use Kerosene, 1 cap in a bucket of warm water, not on the glass, but seems to work. Gets all road grime off, car looks shiny without polish, and helps to prevent rust. Most detergents are caustic based and that shit corrodes, I work with it. Peoples thoughts?



#2 mitchg

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 12:40 AM

I use that yellowy meguiars stuff. 2 buckets, a lamb wool mit, and dry it with a 25 year old chamois. Gets a wax every 3 months or so with dodo juice and shes clean and sparkly all year round.

#3 TerrA LX

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 09:33 AM

Kero and cheap car wash mix.



#4 _judgelj_

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 08:25 PM

Kero, really?



#5 _ljshawn_

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 08:42 PM

I have never heard of kero used, can it damage 2pak paint?

#6 _victor_

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Posted 26 November 2014 - 09:28 PM

When I bought my car in 98.

The bloke that sold it to me, gave me a block of yellow soap with a baby on it.

Told me not to use anything else.

Said it's good enough for a baby's butt & won't damage the paint.

Victor

#7 TerrA LX

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 06:04 AM

kerosene is just a fancy diesel or a less refined jet fuel.

If you have any concerns speak with your paint supplier.

 

 

IMO If a 1/2 a cup (upto 100ml) full of kero in a bucket of water (with cheap car wash, to help suds up and away the dirt) is going to damage your paint you got bigger problems than kerosene.

I would not expect your wax job (i'm talking if you are one of these people who correctly waxes their car for 6hrs twice a year) to stand up, it is not going to wash straight off but if you wash your car regularly then you will need to wax more often. Kero it is great for minor rust protection and keeping the body rubbers supple.

Washing often kinda negates waxing or wax more often. Just watch the water bead off your paint after washing with kero.

If you are one of these sheep who spend up big on silicon products then you should not be a car enthusiast.

Also, if you are using wash and wax or any other kind of spray on wipe off wax then you ARE KIDDING YOURSELF.

To properly wax a car properly takes hours and hours and lots of elbow grease.

Kero is also a lubricant. We used to use it on the metal shop on the punch and dies etc.

FWIW Kero is the original (and still the best) spot, bug and tar remover...


Edited by TerrA LX, 27 November 2014 - 06:12 AM.


#8 Rockoz

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 08:40 AM

Always used turps for spot and tar remover. Not too different to kero I guess.

I used the meguiars line of wash liquid, wax and then spot detailer.

On a black car it worked well.



#9 _judgelj_

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 10:27 AM

So can you use kero to tap/drill metal?



#10 wot179

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 02:18 PM

Yes. Its not as good as Rocol or Trefolex or Tapmaster, but it will do the job.

 

I also use kerosene and warm water to wash the car, for all the reasons already listed above.

 

I use it neat as a spot and tar remover.

 

Those aerosols of spot and tar remover are pretty much just kero in a rattlecan anyway.



#11 wot179

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 02:24 PM

I tried that expensive Mcquires carwash. I found it was useless to clean a dirty car.

 

It wouldn't remove any grime or greasy handprints at all.

 

 It was only good for a dusty car.

 

If anyone is using dishwashing liquid, stop.

 

It encourages rust, and stays in the doors to foam back up again if you drive in the rain, which accelerates rusting.

 

Kero stays in the doors and helps prevent rust.



#12 _jimjet61_

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 03:26 PM

My paint's 2 pac, painted nearly 10 yrs ago now, never been polished (too lazy) and still looks OK. And as WOT said makes bug removal easy.



#13 _ljshawn_

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 06:51 PM

Learn something new I'll give some kero a go next time I wash the cars. Thanks gays

#14 _jimjet61_

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 09:19 PM

My paint's 2 pac, painted nearly 10 yrs ago now, never been polished (too lazy) and still looks OK. And as WOT said makes bug removal easy.

IMG_20141115_184753_zps86235c84.jpg

 

Doesn't fix everything though!!!



#15 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 10:32 PM

Never heard this before, but I'm willing to try it.
What do you use on the widows if not the same?
What will it do to the windows?

Thanks in advance

#16 Ice

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Posted 27 November 2014 - 10:37 PM

I just use the same shit ive been using for 20 years Turtle Wash clean good and leaves paint shiny

#17 TerrA LX

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 05:24 AM

I use it all over, windows and all.



#18 warrenm

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 05:47 AM

What TerrA LX said.



#19 Shiney005

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 09:10 AM

Does the film of kero left on the car after it dries attract dust?

#20 j...

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 09:42 AM

Thanks for the information on this tread already. Ive done a search on this forum and couldn't find anything.I would like to ask TerrA LX and anybody else what you consider the "correct" way to wash and wax etc your car. Ive done a bit of research already on the internet , but it all seams geared towards selling a product rather than clear cut directions. Either some information or links would be greatly appreciated and UTILIZED!!!



#21 Litre8

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 10:42 AM

I use AutoGlym products on the R8 including their car wash. Wouldn't the kero also remove/strip any polish or polymer paint protection?

 

Regarding 'rules/procedures' for wash/wax: Never wash/wax in direct sunlight (late afternoon/early morning ok), wash and dry  top down, allow to dry thoroughly before waxing.



#22 TerrA LX

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 10:43 AM

Hose car down thoroughly to remove buildup, park in the shade.

Bucket of warm water with kero/cheap car wash, quality soft sponge and wash from top to bottom finishing off with wheels and tyres.

Tooth brush for badges, nooks and crevices.
I suggest using an old sponge/brush for wheels and tyres, inner lips of guards etc.

Spot clean with straight kero and rinse and dry.

Leather chamois to dry.

 

If your keen to wax for the first time you have to wash the car then, to remove any previous products etc for best results altho not entirely necessary, degrease with wax and grease remover the car after washing.
Follow directions as per wax and grease remover.

Find real caribbean wax and apply wax thoroughly with a clean lint free soft cloth then with a second lint free cloth buff clear.

If you are reapplying wax then you can skip decreasing and reduce the amount of kero in your car wash mix.
I have only ever waxed a car properly once. It is way too much work but well worth it.

I am merely an auto enthusiast and if you have any concerns with any of the things I have listed then I suggest you speak with your refinishing supplier on how best to protect your investment and any concerns there maybe with warranties implied etc etc etc.


Edited by TerrA LX, 28 November 2014 - 10:46 AM.


#23 mitchg

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 11:06 AM

Seems like some very old methods used here. If it works, why change it.

But i get all my stuff from www.carcareproducts.com.au. Pierre who works there is a good friend of my old mans and there are some killer washes, waxes and wax prep products. I like the dodo juice stuff.

Jump on there and they have step by step methods on how they detail their customers cars.

#24 Rockoz

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 11:32 AM

Stopped using a chamois to dry years ago.

I use clean microfibre cloths now.

Find they do a lot better job.



#25 TerrA LX

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Posted 28 November 2014 - 12:46 PM

They stopped making leather chamois (from the dear or whatever animal it is) years and years and years ago, they are all synthetic now, leaving streaks.


Edited by TerrA LX, 28 November 2014 - 12:48 PM.





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