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Concrete For Hoist Help!


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#1 bullitA9X

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 08:56 PM

well guys finally bit the bullit and got a tufflift 2 post hoist as my back can no longer handle working on the ground anymore...

 

http://www.tufflift..../2-post-hoists/

 

 

 

now the problem is my shed concrete is 100mm thick tufflift specify 100mm minimum but would rather 150mm i have got a lot of different opinions from people saying 100mm is fine then im told its not then im told i must box where the footings sit then im told thats overkill and cutting the concrete out to make box sections will make the existing floor weaker also im told the concrete must be 3000 psi i have no idea what my shed concrete is im very confused can anyone thats done one help!!


Edited by bullitA9X, 26 January 2015 - 08:59 PM.


#2 Ice

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:00 PM

Mate of mine just had a hoist put in only had 100 mm concrete slab but he put some kick arse bolts in so it aint going anywhere
same hoist You bought Daz

#3 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:11 PM

Relax Daz.
I had one installed and the installer didn't even look at the concrete.
He just made sure no cracks or joins were close to the bolts.
All good

#4 bullitA9X

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:19 PM

Mate of mine just had a hoist put in only had 100 mm concrete slab but he put some kick arse bolts in so it aint going anywhere
same hoist You bought Daz

 

kick ass bolts now i like the sound of them gene :buttrock:

 

Relax Daz.
I had one installed and the installer didn't even look at the concrete.
He just made sure no cracks or joins were close to the bolts.
All good

 

yeah mate im always stressing :tongue4:



#5 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:25 PM

I"ve looked at this myself. 

personally, because of the value of the cars i will be putting up there, and the fact i would like to use it for storage as well as working, I have pretty well concluded the best bet will be to cut some sections out about 1500x500, dig down like 500mm, make up a nice mesh boxing with studs to mount the hoist integrated in it, then concrete the lot back in. 

 

But nothing exceeds like excess. 



#6 bullitA9X

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:31 PM

I"ve looked at this myself. 

personally, because of the value of the cars i will be putting up there, and the fact i would like to use it for storage as well as working, I have pretty well concluded the best bet will be to cut some sections out about 1500x500, dig down like 500mm, make up a nice mesh boxing with studs to mount the hoist integrated in it, then concrete the lot back in. 

 

But nothing exceeds like excess. 

 

yep it will be used for storage aswell bomber!!



#7 DMLC71

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:33 PM

If you have not poured the slab yet just put an extra piece of reo where the verticle poles are mounted. This will help you for piece of mind.
If it is poured no problem it is only one tonne per pole and that is fine. Just picture jacking your car up off the ground with two jacks, no problem.
Daz M

#8 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:33 PM

BAsically i would like to put my LJ ontop of my ski boat. 

 

Both are irreplaceable. 

 

Im sure you are in a similar situation. 

 

Two choices, get a four poster or go overkill IMO.

 

Mind mines a few years off before i get the money most likely.

 

Cheers. 



#9 dattoman

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:34 PM

I"ve looked at this myself. 

personally, because of the value of the cars i will be putting up there, and the fact i would like to use it for storage as well as working, I have pretty well concluded the best bet will be to cut some sections out about 1500x500, dig down like 500mm, make up a nice mesh boxing with studs to mount the hoist integrated in it, then concrete the lot back in. 

 

But nothing exceeds like excess. 

 

If I ever get a hoist I'll be doing something like this

My slab would be anywhere from 50-100mm thick and no steel mesh in it

So I'd have to do this or risk a big fuckup



#10 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:34 PM

Daz, very well and good, but I was more thinking possible side loading if a vehicle is not perfectly balanced on the hoist....



#11 Bigfella237

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:39 PM

My personal opinion is that, providing the 4" slab had the appropriate reenforcing in it and whatever it was laid on won't wash out from underneath it, you should be okay.

 

As for cutting the slab to pour footings, you could argue that may actually be weaker than one continuous reenforced slab since you would be severing all the metal re-bar that gives concrete it's strength? Maybe if you could come up with some way to tie the new footings back into the existing slab?

 

If you were really worried, you could have longer legs welded to the base of the hoist to give it a bigger footprint and distribute the load over a wider area? (Just don't curse me every time you trip over them.)


Edited by Bigfella237, 26 January 2015 - 09:41 PM.


#12 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 09:43 PM

From what i have seen the usual practice is to drill into the existing slab and glue some re bar lenghs into it jutting out into where the new footings will be poured. 

 

Then like i said, make a box out of rebar, picture a crabpot, that fits in the hole. Just for shits and giggles I would personally have the mounting studs for the hoist welded to this, and most likely all the way through to the bottom of the hole. 

 

Cheers. 



#13 _ljshawn_

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 11:01 PM

Most hoist manufacturers can provide a steel plate for the hoist to bolt to and spread the load over a larger area.

#14 _outer control_

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 11:13 PM

well guys finally bit the bullit and got a tufflift 2 post hoist as my back can no longer handle working on the ground anymore...

 

http://www.tufflift..../2-post-hoists/

 

 

 

now the problem is my shed concrete is 100mm thick tufflift specify 100mm minimum but would rather 150mm i have got a lot of different opinions from people saying 100mm is fine then im told its not then im told i must box where the footings sit then im told thats overkill and cutting the concrete out to make box sections will make the existing floor weaker also im told the concrete must be 3000 psi i have no idea what my shed concrete is im very confused can anyone thats done one help!!

Depends on strength of the concrete and size of the mesh and at least 100mm thick . My floor was a min. 125mm 25 mpa and i used f73 mesh but thats designed to drive on with tractors and heavy trucks and so far no cracks but if only using it for cars not heavy landcruisers etc it should be ok



#15 _victor_

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 11:42 PM

You could get some 20mm plate steel around 600mm x 600mm

Put this down first then bolt the hoist on top to spread the load.

At my work went there not sure about the thickness of the concrete, as most was put down over 60 years ago. This is the quick & cheap way to fix the problem.

Or as suggested above cut holes pour concrete with re bar pin it to the slab.

Just make sure that when you drill the holes for the bolts that you use one of those really long drill bits so that you can punch the bolt down the hole if it doesn't grab a hold.

You don't want to try and pull one of those out.

Victor

#16 RallyRed

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 07:34 AM

Hi Daz,

 

Had the same thoughts myself a few weeks ago.

Got the Tufflift ( after advice from this forum, Bazza etc ) 2 poster with the overhead bar.

Had the shed slab engineered to be 100-125mm thick and 150min in the hoist area ( I don't think concretors work in mm's anyway).

All good, but then decided to position the hoist differently within the shed...doh.

Thus some bolts are in 150mm and some are in 100mm concrete.

 

The dyna bolts Tufflift supply are seriously big. I think it was a 19.5mm drill we used in the concrete.?

Torqued them up to Tufflift specs...seriously, seriously  tight.

 

I'm thinking there is nearly zero chance of failure as far as sideways goes due to the 2 posts being tied via the top overhead bar.

As far as forward/backwards failure as a result of uneven loading....reckon not likely, as to tear the 10 or 12 x  3/4 bolts out of the floor would be a massive ask. p.s. I'm no civil engineer.

 

Just as a feel good thing....., I used a few of the little shims they supply to make it 100% plum. When the car is on the hoist , I have just reached down and felt them...they are still firmly located, so I read that , as being no ''lifting '' of the feet happening.

Made me happy anyway.

 

p.s I made a template for the drilling, as I didn't like the idea of drilling thru the feet while the whole thing  just sat there balancing above my head.

 

Only had one minor issue  with one of the ratchet/lock dogs...they were very attentive to my inquiry.

 

Regards

Col

 

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#17 Bigfella237

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 08:02 AM

I reckon if my shed was big enough (which sadly, it isn't) I'd opt for the four-poster with the scissor-lift jacks myself.

 

I worked on both two and four posts hoists for years and while the four-poster doesn't allow such unrestricted access as the two, it more than makes up for that with ease of getting a vehicle up in the air, no crawling around trying to position lift pads or damaging underbody paintwork etc., plus it doubles as a handy workbench.

 

But the thing that would seal the deal for me is that the Tufflift four posters don't have to be bolted down in one spot and even come with castors so you can move them around.

 

Well worth the extra eight hundred bucks I reckon!

 

P.S. I think a decent generator ought to be able to power these hoists... I wonder if I could bolt a four-poster to the car trailer and make it double-decker?

 

(Relax, I'm only joking... or am I?)



#18 _macdou_

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 08:21 AM

I reckon if my shed was big enough (which sadly, it isn't) I'd opt for the four-poster with the scissor-lift jacks myself.
 
I worked on both two and four posts hoists for years and while the four-poster doesn't allow such unrestricted access as the two, it more than makes up for that with ease of getting a vehicle up in the air, no crawling around trying to position lift pads or damaging underbody paintwork etc., plus it doubles as a handy workbench.
 
But the thing that would seal the deal for me is that the Tufflift four posters don't have to be bolted down in one spot and even come with castors so you can move them around.
 
Well worth the extra eight hundred bucks I reckon!
 
P.S. I think a decent generator ought to be able to power these hoists... I wonder if I could bolt a four-poster to the car trailer and make it double-decker?
 
(Relax, I'm only joking... or am I?)


I am with you on this Andrew as you also have the option of placing the hoist outside if you don't have the room, and you don't have to worry about it toppling over.

#19 RallyRed

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 10:13 AM

did a bit of a Google on these 2 posters falling over......seems to be more about cars falling off,( incorrect pad placement ) rather than the hoist itself failing.?



#20 Statler

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 10:20 AM

What are the manufacturers recommendations? 

 

The last one we put up called for 900sq footings, so that's what it got.

 

I have 900 sq footings poured in my shed sled. Over kill? Maybe. But it isn't going to fail. 



#21 Redslur

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 11:13 AM

Just had a new 2 post hoist installed in my shed two weeks ago.  No mention of minimum concrete thickness by the installer. Mine is only a 3 tonne job but I am confident there won't be any installation issues.  It seems very sturdy.  So handy having one that is for sure :-)



#22 _Skapinad_

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 01:04 PM

Given the value of your cars, i would be seeking wtitten confirmation from your insurer, prior to making any decisions.

If the manufacturer recommends a certain size footing and you ignore it..... It falls over... I reckon your insurer would reject your claim. .?

#23 _motiV8ed_

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 01:55 PM

I went through all of this myself when I built my shed knowing that I was going to install hoists. I have a two poster for easy access for working on cars & a four poster for storage......If I could only have one I'd choose a two poster every time.

 

The advice I was given by a couple of Australian based retailers (cant remember who as it was a few years ago) was that providing you have a minimum 100mm reinforced slab (standard mpa is fine - 21mpa or 23mpa can't remember what standard is...) it'll be fine for a two post hoist.

 

Having said that, as I was starting from scratch we did dig out a bit extra to make 1m X 1m X 200mm pads under the two poster just because we could.

 

...don't over think it!!! If you slab is decent ie. is reinforced, you have the required minimum thickness & it isn't cracked or crumbly it'll be fine....you'll never look back once you have one :-)



#24 RallyRed

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 04:13 PM

yep....as long as youmeet the vendors requirements (in my case 100mm min and 150mm if you can)...then theres no dramas.

 

Also consider there are any number of places selling thousands of these things per year......so 100/150 must be fine...otherwise it'd be on Current Affair by now.

 

p.s. maybe it has been?..I wont watch it, so don't know...;lol



#25 Bigfella237

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Posted 27 January 2015 - 05:00 PM

did a bit of a Google on these 2 posters falling over......seems to be more about cars falling off,( incorrect pad placement ) rather than the hoist itself failing.?

 

I've seen both a hoist fail and a car topple off, and neither outcome was very good.

 

The hoist failure was a cable which snapped and the result was a very hard landing on all four wheels (thank God nobody was under it at the time as there was absolutely no warning whatsoever and the drop was instantaneous), no panel damage but substantial suspension and chassis damage.

 

The one I saw that toppled off landed on its side, worst of all, that hoist had the raised hump on the floor between the two posts which did the most damage, the car looked like it'd hit a square tree!

 

Wet days were the worst, some imported cars get a coating of wax top and bottom to protect them on the boat-ride over here, dealers typically clean this wax off the paintwork but leave the undercarriage alone, so when a car came in dripping wet this wax makes it easy for pads to slip, even with the locks on the hoist arms.

 

The other trap for young players is the balancing act with a two-poster, removing substantial weight from one end of the car while it's on the hoist, such as dropping a nine inch diff out, only to look up and see the car is now balanced on the two front pads alone (it pays to have an apprentice handy to swing off one end of the car in these situations while you lower the hoist)... been there, done that!






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