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Issues with Bendix Stromberg carburettor.

Started by _RedKobra_ , Jun 24 2015 01:29 AM

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37 replies to this topic

#26 _Gunmetal LH_

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Posted 27 June 2015 - 12:56 AM

Searched for a cover for the rectangle hole in the side of the carb. Don't think there is supposed to be one.

In your pic of the aircleaner base there's a thingy with 2 pins you've circled as unused. Looks like it might be a temp sensor or some sort?

Do you have any unused wires around the inlet manifold or the head? Pretty sure that would be part of the idle shut-off valve/solenoid on the linkage side of the carby.

From memory that solenoid pushes on the throttle linkages when the ignition is on, when cold pushes farther. It backs off a bit (goes from fast idle back to normal) when warmed up.

When the ignition is off the solenoid pulls all the way back far enough to stall the engine. It is intentional to stop over-run when switching the ignition off.

Mate had an early commodore with that valve/solenoid which didn't work.

From memory he put a bit of metal tube over the pin and crimped/screwed/glued it so the throttle linkage would not go back far enough to get in the 'stall' position.

When it was hot the engine would over-run when the ignition was turned off. Auto, so he'd just leave it in gear while he switched it off then put it in park once the engine cut out.

Do you still get power loss when the engine is warm?

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#27 _RedKobra_

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Posted 27 June 2015 - 04:09 AM

The dings don't look that bad in the picture?

I could *maybe* try to bang them out if it's worth a block of beer.

When you say it smells of fuel...is that from the exhaust or a raw fuel smell from under bonnet.

Raw fuel from the carby.

Best identify the carb before going deeper...i knew some one threw up a list not long ago of applications somewhere

http://www.gmh-toran...fo/#entry326149

Thanks I'll try and find the codes on it.

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#28 warrenm

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Posted 27 June 2015 - 06:16 AM

There is no cover missing for the rectangle hole.

It's a vacuum switch with the 2 pins to measure the air temp in the air cleaner.

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#29 _RedKobra_

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 12:50 AM

Searched for a cover for the rectangle hole in the side of the carb. Don't think there is supposed to be one.

In your pic of the aircleaner base there's a thingy with 2 pins you've circled as unused. Looks like it might be a temp sensor or some sort?

Do you have any unused wires around the inlet manifold or the head? Pretty sure that would be part of the idle shut-off valve/solenoid on the linkage side of the carby.

From memory that solenoid pushes on the throttle linkages when the ignition is on, when cold pushes farther. It backs off a bit (goes from fast idle back to normal) when warmed up.

When the ignition is off the solenoid pulls all the way back far enough to stall the engine. It is intentional to stop over-run when switching the ignition off.

Mate had an early commodore with that valve/solenoid which didn't work.

From memory he put a bit of metal tube over the pin and crimped/screwed/glued it so the throttle linkage would not go back far enough to get in the 'stall' position.

When it was hot the engine would over-run when the ignition was turned off. Auto, so he'd just leave it in gear while he switched it off then put it in park once the engine cut out.

Do you still get power loss when the engine is warm?

There's no extra wires. The engine and carby are from a different mystery vehicle. When the engine is warm it mostly runs okay but will sometimes lose power around corners. Also seems to be using more fuel than it should.

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#30 EunUCh

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 08:58 AM

Flooding ?

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#31 _Muzzy_

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 08:59 AM

The issue is the engine has been transplanted, one could assume complete , if you post the engine number prefix it could help to understand what engine you actually have, which would allow members to provide advise on that actual setup, rather than all guessing, and is the vehicle a manual or auto as they ran different carbs in later red engines, not covered as yet but to be considered what distributor is in it and what is the base timing.

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#32 _RedKobra_

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 02:36 PM

Apart from the letters K & 8 stamped separately on top, I don't see anything else stamped anywhere. I've looked all around it. Could be stamped on the manifold side but can't be ****** taking it off. The carby is designed to have a choke and when they swapped the engine they never installed one with it. FTS. Got my eye on a Dingo manifold with carby instead.

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#33 _RedKobra_

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 03:14 PM

Also some seemingly random numbers cast into the metal. "K," "2377144," "31.0," "2377121," and a diamond with "213" in it.

The issue is the engine has been transplanted, one could assume complete , if you post the engine number prefix it could help to understand what engine you actually have, which would allow members to provide advise on that actual setup, rather than all guessing, and is the vehicle a manual or auto as they ran different carbs in later red engines, not covered as yet but to be considered what distributor is in it and what is the base timing.

As far as I can tell engine number next to driver's side mounting bracket is "XOD859019."

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#34 _Muzzy_

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 08:18 AM

XQD is a high compression 173 auto from a late LX or UC
XQM is a high compression 202 auto from same
Sorry no XOD

So what this tells me is you have a full emission engine, so idle speed is by adjusting the brass rod coming from the anti diesel solenoid on back of carb
The idle mixture will be a very small screw in a plastic thread , and set to very lean, and the main jet is also set to lean, along with a retarded cam
This working on the assumption that the carb came with engine, best thing would be a carb kit a aftermarket mixture screw, and 1 size larger main

BTW a 350 Holley won't run on a 173 just too big, as I know you mentioned. A 34ADM weber will run well on 2 barrel manifold , not the single barrel manifold

Edited by Muzzy, 05 July 2015 - 08:23 AM.

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#35 _RedKobra_

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 05:44 PM

XQD is a high compression 173 auto from a late LX or UC
XQM is a high compression 202 auto from same
Sorry no XOD

So what this tells me is you have a full emission engine, so idle speed is by adjusting the brass rod coming from the anti diesel solenoid on back of carb
The idle mixture will be a very small screw in a plastic thread , and set to very lean, and the main jet is also set to lean, along with a retarded cam
This working on the assumption that the carb came with engine, best thing would be a carb kit a aftermarket mixture screw, and 1 size larger main

BTW a 350 Holley won't run on a 173 just too big, as I know you mentioned. A 34ADM weber will run well on 2 barrel manifold , not the single barrel manifold

Quite right. It's XQD. The line was very subtle and covered in grease. Thanks for the info.

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#36 _RedKobra_

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Posted 19 July 2015 - 11:20 PM

Bought a seemingly identical Stromberg locally today. At close inspection I found the stamped numbers 23-3115 (HX,LX-UC 202 MAN) where as my original one reads 23-3100 (LX-UC 173 AUTO). Although it's likely leaking, the recent purchase is in good physical condition. Better air cleaner mounting and no damage to a single screw head. Anyone know the ID No. for the carby kit that fits these?

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#37 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 06:00 AM

Bought a seemingly identical Stromberg locally today. At close inspection I found the stamped numbers 23-3115 (HX,LX-UC 202 MAN) where as my original one reads 23-3100 (LX-UC 173 AUTO). Although it's likely leaking, the recent purchase is in good physical condition. Better air cleaner mounting and no damage to a single screw head. Anyone know the ID No. for the carby kit that fits these?

As mentioned in a previous post, a pre-HX carb is what you want. Your "new" one will have similar emissions jetting to what you already have.

Do you know what the carb or engine was in originally? The later (HX and after I think) engines with emission controls had a very lean calibration that coughed and farted at the best of times. If it's one of these you'd be better to swap it for a HQ era carb or go straight to a new manifold with a Holley or Weber.

Edited by oldjohnno, 20 July 2015 - 06:10 AM.

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#38 _RedKobra_

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Posted 20 July 2015 - 04:13 PM

As mentioned in a previous post, a pre-HX carb is what you want. Your "new" one will have similar emissions jetting to what you already have.

Didn't spot the ID stamp on either carby until after purchasing the replacement. ($20) I haven't had much luck locating a suitable weber or HQ carby. Seen a few twin barrel manifolds around including a Dingo, and a Redline Road Master, but they always come with 350 Holleys. Also seen a Cain with twin single Strombergs but they want too much for it. So for now just need something to reliably get the car from A to B until I find something else, hence the need for a carby kit.