i have been watching a paint thead for a while and thought I would give it a go.
Its a huge thread now, but very interesting concept. I bet some of u old schoolers have done something similar b4, even just on a tractor or go cart. Over seas they r using Rustoleum or tremclad and a high density foam roller. I did the frame of my bike in straight up Killrust and it came up mint, but i reckon thinning it with turps will make it more manageable for larger areas.
Hubby is testing on an Austin door with a section stripped back to bare metal and a section with sanded paint, I am testing on another door that i have only very lightly sanded and washed. We r using the gloss black killrust and thinning with turps. So far we have the first 2 coats on and will let it dry over nite then sand and apply next 2 coats. Looks pretty impressive so far, and easy to do EVEN FOR ME LOL.
I will post pics as i go.
this is the link
http://board.moparts...Number=2331682r
painting experiment
Started by
_kaz from adelaide_
, Jul 30 2006 04:27 PM
18 replies to this topic
#2
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 05:07 PM
original door
1st coat, my door lightly pre sanded and washed b4 painting
1st coat up close, my door
2nd coat, my door
Hubbys door 1st coat, right side was pre stripped back to metal before painting, left side was just sanded b4 painting.
Hubbys door 2nd coat
harder to see detail in shed, i will take future pics outside.
1st coat, my door lightly pre sanded and washed b4 painting
1st coat up close, my door
2nd coat, my door
Hubbys door 1st coat, right side was pre stripped back to metal before painting, left side was just sanded b4 painting.
Hubbys door 2nd coat
harder to see detail in shed, i will take future pics outside.
#3
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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- Guests
Posted 30 July 2006 - 05:11 PM
this system in a nut shell, I am using killrust instead of tremclad.
***********************************************************
Body prep
next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....
no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow
it to be painted over bare metal.
mixing paint
next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker.
theres no ratio that i could come up with because once you open the can and pour some out the next day the paint will be a bit thicker.
if i had to guess i would say about 20% thinner or so? just thin enough that it does'nt run,
but not too thick. keep in mind that you can allways add more paint to the mix if you go too thin.
and the coats go on really really thin, that is the key, like i said before you don't really have a true non transparent base until the 3rd or 4th coat.
Painting
I also load the roller up quite heavily, then work it until the roller does'nt have so much paint in it
and do the detail work after. once you spread the paint wait a minute or so and then just really gently
run the roller using only the weight of the roller, on the sides just use very very light pressure as if
it were the weight of it. How you thin the paint is critical, i have not had one paint run on any of the cars
i've painted. To give you an idea, you really only start to have full coverage to where u can't see any body work
or underlying color thru the paint until the 3rd coat
after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand
The trick is in how you thin the paint, get it as thin as possible without running,
and the paint "self levels" it comes out like glass,
wet sanding just makes it better,'
when the paint is thinned your barley putting on any paint with each coat, so you really need to do about
6 coats to get enough of a base so you can wet sand and polish
You only cover up the bodywork, underlying color until after the 4th coat, keep in mind that there is wet sanding in between each 2 coats.
if you get bubbles when your painting your pushing down on the roller too hard, lighten it up a bit,
let the paint sit for 1 minute after you've spread it out nice, then just run the roller over the area VERY gently using only the weight of the roller,
then turn around, have a smoke after you've done the pannel, and when your done your smoke, turn around and you'll see it has "self leveled"
before your eyes
Painting Hard to get areas
do the hood, doors, front fenders, and the trunk, that's easy.
then i do the whole roof and sail pannels in one shot working fast, there's enough time to do it before the paint tacks up if u rush it,
not the time to have a coffee or smoke. i stopped at the rear quarter just below the sail pannels and top quarter pannel where there is a edge to stop at.
then continue from there on each side meeting in the back rear valance. the trick there is to not leave and raised paint lines,
and smooth it out gradually as u approach the point where u stop, then run to the other side and do the other half of the roof and overlap the strokes.
wetsanding does the rest, but u try to make it as smooth as possible, the paint is very thin on each coat. it's really hard to describe,
that's where all the expirementing comes in to play.
Sanding
do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat,
wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher
i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u,
depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing
use a spray bottle and keep the paper really wet, finish with a 1000 grit or so and then buff with a random
orbit polisher using turtle wax POLISHING compound, NOT the rubbing compound, its' to harsh.
it is critical to use the proper roller, it's about 4" wide and about 1 1/2" thick,
and really high density white foam. it really works and is much tougher paint than todays single stage or base clear,
very hard to scratch
did not block sand the car just wetsand progressivly finer paper by HAND, no machine, no block nothing.
using any "block" to sand i found the paper got dirty fast and got all plugged up,
so do it by hand and keep it really wet, using a spray bottle in one hand and a clean bucket of water and a shammy
(dollar store!!!)to clean it off to see how it looks. i prepped the car with 80, then 100, then 200,
finished with a 400, did all my body work, and painted. after 2 coats (about 4hrs work for the whole car)
i wetsanded with a 600, then did 2 more coats, wetsand with 800, 2 more coats and sand with a 1000-1500 and polish,
followed by wax, done......
one more pointer, when u wet sand the final coat, the paint looks flat, like velvet,
if you take a rag soaked with mineral spirits and whipe a spot down that you just sanded,
that's what it will look like buffed. if you buff and decide to paint again clean the area with
mineral spirts so that and residue from the polishing compound is removed or the paint won't stick.
do another coat, try to put it on really light, i hope u prepped the fender a little before you started painting.
when u wet sand try using a 600-800 grit, and lightly wet sand the fender with light pressure and ALOT of water.
Spraying it on should maybe work better but its messy, stinky, and a pain. when u first start to wet sand you'll notice
the paper just kinda glides over the paint and it does'nt really feel like your sanding anything, keep going, soon the water will stop
beeding off the paint and it will start to turn yellow. after wetsanding it looks like crap, this is where the polishing come in, brings it to glass.
i haven't tried soap and water, i see no real advantage, i just use straight water and keep the area really wet, using a spray bottle and spray it down alot,
after wetsanding for a bit i have a bucket of water and a shammy i whipe down the surface with while it's still wet, that way it's much eaiser
to clean before it dries. and as for the mineral spirits on a wet rag and just whiping it down, yes, that's what it looks like polished, even better,
just gives you an idea of what it will look like when finished, that's about the first time you really see the results.
buffing
polishing compound, not rubbing compound
the rubbing compound could be used if you really want to, i just found it much better to wetsand with 1000 grit and then go straight to polishing,
that's what worked for me. the rubbing compound seemed to ball up under the polisher and make a mess and make some scratches when it balled up,
i used the polishing compound on a regular bonnet on a 10" elecrtic random orbit polisher, it's only after polishing that it looks like glass,
and i kept it wet with water from a spray bottle on the bonnet, forgot to mention that, but keeping it quite wet worked great.
like i mentioned before after wetsanding use a random orbit polisher and the cheapest
POLISHING COMPOUND made by turtle wax, it comes in a paste in a small round flat container and it's white,
allmost looks like hand cream and smells good too!!!
Random tips
as a hint if you try it first you paint the surface, and then really lightly "skim" the surface with the weight of the roller
only to remove any lines bubbles ect, then just leave it for a minute or two and you'll see it just "self levels"
totally flat to glass. then wetsand it really fine
Oh and i strip the car of all chrome, bumpers, rubber, door handles, trim, ect...nothing looks cheaper than a car that's just taped!!!
have a shelf full of polishing compounds, mothers, mequires, ect....know what works the best?
the cheapest one!!! turtle wax polishing compound in the white paste, $3,
polish ANY enamel with a electric random orbit polisher and you'll be impressed......... and just a tip if you try it keep the buffing bonnet WET,
have a spray bottle full of water and spray it on the bonnet each time u load up the polish paste, be very generous with both.
there's still bubbles in the paint when u mixed it really well then get some paper towel and "skim" the surface to get rid of the bubbles.
if you get bubbles when your painting your pushing down on the roller too hard, lighten it up a bit, let the paint sit for 1 minute,
after you've spread it out nice, then just run the roller over the area VERY gently using only the weight of the roller,
then turn around, have a smoke after you've done the pannel, and when your done your smoke, turn around and you'll see it has "self leveled"
before your eyes. if your doing a vertical section just apply a tiny amount of pressure as if it were the weight alone of the roller.
it's really tricky to do, i could lay it down perfectly level but i have done it alot, you have to "read" the paint, listen carefully,
it will tell you what to to . hope this helps.
DON'T use water!!! (to clean the roller, or paper towels)
***********************************************************
Body prep
next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....
no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow
it to be painted over bare metal.
mixing paint
next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker.
theres no ratio that i could come up with because once you open the can and pour some out the next day the paint will be a bit thicker.
if i had to guess i would say about 20% thinner or so? just thin enough that it does'nt run,
but not too thick. keep in mind that you can allways add more paint to the mix if you go too thin.
and the coats go on really really thin, that is the key, like i said before you don't really have a true non transparent base until the 3rd or 4th coat.
Painting
I also load the roller up quite heavily, then work it until the roller does'nt have so much paint in it
and do the detail work after. once you spread the paint wait a minute or so and then just really gently
run the roller using only the weight of the roller, on the sides just use very very light pressure as if
it were the weight of it. How you thin the paint is critical, i have not had one paint run on any of the cars
i've painted. To give you an idea, you really only start to have full coverage to where u can't see any body work
or underlying color thru the paint until the 3rd coat
after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand
The trick is in how you thin the paint, get it as thin as possible without running,
and the paint "self levels" it comes out like glass,
wet sanding just makes it better,'
when the paint is thinned your barley putting on any paint with each coat, so you really need to do about
6 coats to get enough of a base so you can wet sand and polish
You only cover up the bodywork, underlying color until after the 4th coat, keep in mind that there is wet sanding in between each 2 coats.
if you get bubbles when your painting your pushing down on the roller too hard, lighten it up a bit,
let the paint sit for 1 minute after you've spread it out nice, then just run the roller over the area VERY gently using only the weight of the roller,
then turn around, have a smoke after you've done the pannel, and when your done your smoke, turn around and you'll see it has "self leveled"
before your eyes
Painting Hard to get areas
do the hood, doors, front fenders, and the trunk, that's easy.
then i do the whole roof and sail pannels in one shot working fast, there's enough time to do it before the paint tacks up if u rush it,
not the time to have a coffee or smoke. i stopped at the rear quarter just below the sail pannels and top quarter pannel where there is a edge to stop at.
then continue from there on each side meeting in the back rear valance. the trick there is to not leave and raised paint lines,
and smooth it out gradually as u approach the point where u stop, then run to the other side and do the other half of the roof and overlap the strokes.
wetsanding does the rest, but u try to make it as smooth as possible, the paint is very thin on each coat. it's really hard to describe,
that's where all the expirementing comes in to play.
Sanding
do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat,
wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher
i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u,
depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing
use a spray bottle and keep the paper really wet, finish with a 1000 grit or so and then buff with a random
orbit polisher using turtle wax POLISHING compound, NOT the rubbing compound, its' to harsh.
it is critical to use the proper roller, it's about 4" wide and about 1 1/2" thick,
and really high density white foam. it really works and is much tougher paint than todays single stage or base clear,
very hard to scratch
did not block sand the car just wetsand progressivly finer paper by HAND, no machine, no block nothing.
using any "block" to sand i found the paper got dirty fast and got all plugged up,
so do it by hand and keep it really wet, using a spray bottle in one hand and a clean bucket of water and a shammy
(dollar store!!!)to clean it off to see how it looks. i prepped the car with 80, then 100, then 200,
finished with a 400, did all my body work, and painted. after 2 coats (about 4hrs work for the whole car)
i wetsanded with a 600, then did 2 more coats, wetsand with 800, 2 more coats and sand with a 1000-1500 and polish,
followed by wax, done......
one more pointer, when u wet sand the final coat, the paint looks flat, like velvet,
if you take a rag soaked with mineral spirits and whipe a spot down that you just sanded,
that's what it will look like buffed. if you buff and decide to paint again clean the area with
mineral spirts so that and residue from the polishing compound is removed or the paint won't stick.
do another coat, try to put it on really light, i hope u prepped the fender a little before you started painting.
when u wet sand try using a 600-800 grit, and lightly wet sand the fender with light pressure and ALOT of water.
Spraying it on should maybe work better but its messy, stinky, and a pain. when u first start to wet sand you'll notice
the paper just kinda glides over the paint and it does'nt really feel like your sanding anything, keep going, soon the water will stop
beeding off the paint and it will start to turn yellow. after wetsanding it looks like crap, this is where the polishing come in, brings it to glass.
i haven't tried soap and water, i see no real advantage, i just use straight water and keep the area really wet, using a spray bottle and spray it down alot,
after wetsanding for a bit i have a bucket of water and a shammy i whipe down the surface with while it's still wet, that way it's much eaiser
to clean before it dries. and as for the mineral spirits on a wet rag and just whiping it down, yes, that's what it looks like polished, even better,
just gives you an idea of what it will look like when finished, that's about the first time you really see the results.
buffing
polishing compound, not rubbing compound
the rubbing compound could be used if you really want to, i just found it much better to wetsand with 1000 grit and then go straight to polishing,
that's what worked for me. the rubbing compound seemed to ball up under the polisher and make a mess and make some scratches when it balled up,
i used the polishing compound on a regular bonnet on a 10" elecrtic random orbit polisher, it's only after polishing that it looks like glass,
and i kept it wet with water from a spray bottle on the bonnet, forgot to mention that, but keeping it quite wet worked great.
like i mentioned before after wetsanding use a random orbit polisher and the cheapest
POLISHING COMPOUND made by turtle wax, it comes in a paste in a small round flat container and it's white,
allmost looks like hand cream and smells good too!!!
Random tips
as a hint if you try it first you paint the surface, and then really lightly "skim" the surface with the weight of the roller
only to remove any lines bubbles ect, then just leave it for a minute or two and you'll see it just "self levels"
totally flat to glass. then wetsand it really fine
Oh and i strip the car of all chrome, bumpers, rubber, door handles, trim, ect...nothing looks cheaper than a car that's just taped!!!
have a shelf full of polishing compounds, mothers, mequires, ect....know what works the best?
the cheapest one!!! turtle wax polishing compound in the white paste, $3,
polish ANY enamel with a electric random orbit polisher and you'll be impressed......... and just a tip if you try it keep the buffing bonnet WET,
have a spray bottle full of water and spray it on the bonnet each time u load up the polish paste, be very generous with both.
there's still bubbles in the paint when u mixed it really well then get some paper towel and "skim" the surface to get rid of the bubbles.
if you get bubbles when your painting your pushing down on the roller too hard, lighten it up a bit, let the paint sit for 1 minute,
after you've spread it out nice, then just run the roller over the area VERY gently using only the weight of the roller,
then turn around, have a smoke after you've done the pannel, and when your done your smoke, turn around and you'll see it has "self leveled"
before your eyes. if your doing a vertical section just apply a tiny amount of pressure as if it were the weight alone of the roller.
it's really tricky to do, i could lay it down perfectly level but i have done it alot, you have to "read" the paint, listen carefully,
it will tell you what to to . hope this helps.
DON'T use water!!! (to clean the roller, or paper towels)
#4
TerrA LX
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- Members
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Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 30 July 2006 - 06:49 PM
never dreamed of roller painting a car.
well done, from the sounds and looks of things you really have it working for you.
again, well done.
well done, from the sounds and looks of things you really have it working for you.
again, well done.
#5
_LX8VD69_
_LX8VD69_
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 07:52 PM
kaz just out of curiousity what car are you painting with this method?
#6
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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- Guests
Posted 30 July 2006 - 08:03 PM
no project allocated for this paint technique yet, I was curious as to how well it would work. It sounds so simple in the thread I just had 2 try it. The doors we r testing on r from spares we have for the 2 Austin A40's we have that need ground up resto, one will b stock and one will b rodded. so if this paint works out ok we will use it on those 2, BUT if it works out amasingly well we will use it on ruby.kaz just out of curiousity what car are you painting with this method?
#7
_LX8VD69_
_LX8VD69_
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- Guests
Posted 30 July 2006 - 08:13 PM
yeah i thought you had started doing this on ruby
#8
_Pete_
_Pete_
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 08:30 PM
It would be fine for painting a wheelbarrow or a tractor......I think you'd be disappointed in 6 months time when the finish isnt quite what you expected.
Genuine automotive paint and painting equipment is the cheapest nowdays as its ever been, I'd hate to see you guys spend all this time on going with this method and not only hate the future finish but also make it a nightmare to ever refinish in the future.
Genuine automotive paint and painting equipment is the cheapest nowdays as its ever been, I'd hate to see you guys spend all this time on going with this method and not only hate the future finish but also make it a nightmare to ever refinish in the future.
#9
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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- Guests
Posted 30 July 2006 - 08:53 PM
yeah pete, not wanting to step on any prof's toes. There are cars that deserve $5 > 10k++++ paint jobs and then there are cars like the austins we r workin on that r just for the novelty factor and will never be road registered. (my dad had one when i was growin up). Its keepin me entertained while i get over 2 teeth being ripped out.
PS it true what they say about it self leveling, even on vertical. I had pushed a little hard in one section of coat 2 and had roller run lines. took a ciggy brake went back and did the light roll over and all leveled. I was surprised.
I am an absolutely hopeless painter, no patience at all, and i am surprised that this is working for me so far.
PS it true what they say about it self leveling, even on vertical. I had pushed a little hard in one section of coat 2 and had roller run lines. took a ciggy brake went back and did the light roll over and all leveled. I was surprised.
I am an absolutely hopeless painter, no patience at all, and i am surprised that this is working for me so far.
Edited by kaz from adelaide, 30 July 2006 - 09:00 PM.
#10
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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- Guests
Posted 31 July 2006 - 12:26 PM
1st sanding after 2 coats with 600 grit, my door
1st sanding after 2 coats with 600 grit, hubbys door
3rd coat of paint, my door
close up of my door after 3rd coat, almost solid colour now
3rd coat, hubbys door on section that was stripped to metal
3rd coat, hubbys door on section that was sanded
I think this coat was leaning to the too thick side, didnt settle as well as 1st and second coat, i will see what 4th coat goes on like.
1st sanding after 2 coats with 600 grit, hubbys door
3rd coat of paint, my door
close up of my door after 3rd coat, almost solid colour now
3rd coat, hubbys door on section that was stripped to metal
3rd coat, hubbys door on section that was sanded
I think this coat was leaning to the too thick side, didnt settle as well as 1st and second coat, i will see what 4th coat goes on like.
#11
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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- Guests
Posted 31 July 2006 - 02:26 PM
this is from that megga thread link in my first post
some of the cars he has done this way.
https://cache.gmh-to...n/Picture10.jpg
the car before:
https://cache.gmh-to...in/IM000475.jpg
another after pic:
https://cache.gmh-to...in/DSC00164.jpg
here is a car i sprayed (71 beetle, midnight blue metalic):
https://cache.gmh-to...in/DSC00194.jpg
here is the car before (71 beetle):
https://cache.gmh-to...in/Picture1.jpg
here's a few pics of the charger done:
https://cache.gmh-to...in/DSC02764.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...in/DSC02769.jpg
i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it, the 71 blue beetle i painted in 2000, and built the car for my dad, i used the same paint on my charger, maybe one day i'll spring for a good paint job, prepping is 90% of the work, stripping the car, sanding, ect.....painting is overrated!!!
So if you have TIME, then i'd say go for it, the worst that could happen is that it does'nt turn out and your out $50, but if your paitient, and expriement with lets say just the trunk pannel and if you like it do the whole car, if not just get it done by someone else for $4000. i don't know about you guys, but i would rather spend the $4000 on other parts like getting the mechanics sorted out and new chrome,
some of the cars he has done this way.
https://cache.gmh-to...n/Picture10.jpg
the car before:
https://cache.gmh-to...in/IM000475.jpg
another after pic:
https://cache.gmh-to...in/DSC00164.jpg
here is a car i sprayed (71 beetle, midnight blue metalic):
https://cache.gmh-to...in/DSC00194.jpg
here is the car before (71 beetle):
https://cache.gmh-to...in/Picture1.jpg
here's a few pics of the charger done:
https://cache.gmh-to...in/DSC02764.jpg
https://cache.gmh-to...in/DSC02769.jpg
i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it, the 71 blue beetle i painted in 2000, and built the car for my dad, i used the same paint on my charger, maybe one day i'll spring for a good paint job, prepping is 90% of the work, stripping the car, sanding, ect.....painting is overrated!!!
So if you have TIME, then i'd say go for it, the worst that could happen is that it does'nt turn out and your out $50, but if your paitient, and expriement with lets say just the trunk pannel and if you like it do the whole car, if not just get it done by someone else for $4000. i don't know about you guys, but i would rather spend the $4000 on other parts like getting the mechanics sorted out and new chrome,
#12
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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- Guests
Posted 31 July 2006 - 02:37 PM
and another quote from that thread
Quote:
The photo's don't lie, but only time will tell how the paint holds up. It's true there are no guarantee's, but for the amount of time and money spent it seemed worth the effort.
i can say i'm on 6 yrs and 35,000mi and counting on the orange 74 beetle, so time has told me that it holds up. Still looks like the day i did it.
for those who haven't seen the pics, here they are, the beetle pics were this past summer (there's 2 pages of pics BTW)
https://cache.gmh-to...69martin/paint/
Quote:
The photo's don't lie, but only time will tell how the paint holds up. It's true there are no guarantee's, but for the amount of time and money spent it seemed worth the effort.
i can say i'm on 6 yrs and 35,000mi and counting on the orange 74 beetle, so time has told me that it holds up. Still looks like the day i did it.
for those who haven't seen the pics, here they are, the beetle pics were this past summer (there's 2 pages of pics BTW)
https://cache.gmh-to...69martin/paint/
#13
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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- Guests
Posted 01 August 2006 - 02:20 PM
4th coat my door
4th coat hubys door on section taken back to metal
4th coat on hubbys door on sanded side
sanding after 4th coat,my door (i didnt have 400 grit so i just lightly did it with 600grit)
sanding after 4th coat hubbys door
5th coat my door
5th coat my door close up
5th coat hubbys door on side taken back to metal
5th coat on hubbys door on sanded side
so far i have learnt it will all come down to the initial prep of surface and the thining prep of paint. It has been amazingly simple to do, cant wait for finished product.
all pics are on photo bucket
http://s80.photobuck...z...d a roller/
P.S. remember i am no good at painting or picture taking
4th coat hubys door on section taken back to metal
4th coat on hubbys door on sanded side
sanding after 4th coat,my door (i didnt have 400 grit so i just lightly did it with 600grit)
sanding after 4th coat hubbys door
5th coat my door
5th coat my door close up
5th coat hubbys door on side taken back to metal
5th coat on hubbys door on sanded side
so far i have learnt it will all come down to the initial prep of surface and the thining prep of paint. It has been amazingly simple to do, cant wait for finished product.
all pics are on photo bucket
http://s80.photobuck...z...d a roller/
P.S. remember i am no good at painting or picture taking
Edited by kaz from adelaide, 01 August 2006 - 02:31 PM.
#14
_lxtorrie_
_lxtorrie_
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Posted 02 August 2006 - 01:24 AM
Killrust is good, however after playing with this probably 3 months ago, I found white night to be better to use and has a better overall LASTING shine. We found that killrust had a shine, but didnt last very long, scratches were easier to pinpoint and after the shine faded we could easily see all the sanding marks- And we let the paint sit in the NthQLD sun for a good 3-4 weeks before the final polish also, held the shine longer, but was still short lived compared to the white night.
Let me know how you guys go with the killrust as you may have better luck than us.
Basically we just tested it first on a vk bonnet, then once we had the hang of things, painted a few engine bays, boots etc.
Its quick and easy if your after a good paint job, not a great paint job for things like engine bays etc. We are not game enough to test it on the whole exterior of a car.
Cheers and best of luck.
Let me know how you guys go with the killrust as you may have better luck than us.
Basically we just tested it first on a vk bonnet, then once we had the hang of things, painted a few engine bays, boots etc.
Its quick and easy if your after a good paint job, not a great paint job for things like engine bays etc. We are not game enough to test it on the whole exterior of a car.
Cheers and best of luck.
Edited by lxtorrie, 02 August 2006 - 01:26 AM.
#15
TerrA LX
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Fulcrum Fixture
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Posted 02 August 2006 - 02:29 AM
^ my suggestion here is stick with purpose orientated products for satisfactory results.
#16
_kaz from adelaide_
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 02 August 2006 - 11:48 AM
do u have any pics of work u have done??Basically we just tested it first on a vk bonnet, then once we had the hang of things, painted a few engine bays, boots etc.
did u use the same technique as what i am when u used the killrust??
ta muchly.
ALX76
if people never experimented we wouldnt have the light globe, electricity, the wheel blah blah blah. Its worth a try, thats why i am using the austin doors and not the torrie. As i said i will probably only use it on the austins as they will never b street registered anyways and just something to play with.
#17
_Gamera90_
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Posted 02 August 2006 - 03:46 PM
I really think the idea of painting a Torrie in killrust has a lot going for it. I know the emphasis of alot of the topics posted on these forums goes towards the whole pristine/historical show car catagory of Torana enthusiasim, and you see an amazing amount of dedication and skill going into alot of these cars, but there is definetly more than a few Torana enthusiasts who buy a Torana as a tuff daily driver that sees a lot of miles and some really bad storage conditions. (This usally comes down to a lack of cash not enthusiasim) In truth a lot of the cars on this forum are in much too good condition for them to ever be realistically used as an actual car. I mean would you really leave your pride and joy with its 10k paint job in a Sydney carpark to contened with rain/hail and jelous ford drivers with a set of sharp keys?. Anyway the point i'm getting at is that for the poor torana owners out there without out a second car, that use theirs as a daily driver despite the way petrol is, and just want to dump every spare dollar into the running gear, this is an excellent alternative to the 4k booth job, and produces a car that is drivable without having to wrap it in cotton wool.
Anyway my thanks to Kaz for doing the leg work on the rustoleum solution and taking the time to post it on the forums for the benifit of the less than affluent torana enthusiast. Time to try it on my SLR door.
Anyway my thanks to Kaz for doing the leg work on the rustoleum solution and taking the time to post it on the forums for the benifit of the less than affluent torana enthusiast. Time to try it on my SLR door.
#18
_kaz from adelaide_
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 11:02 AM
6th coat has gone on. test project has come to a stand still as we have 2 catch up on a few million other things. I will post final pics as soon as I can get back to it.
#19
_lxtorrie_
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 09:10 PM
Yeah Kaz same technique, will post pics of a turbo *cough* ford lazer *cough*, when we are done. Decided to bite the bullet and found a mate willing to donate his car for the cause.
Pics by wednesday hopefully of the done deal.
Cheers
Pics by wednesday hopefully of the done deal.
Cheers
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