ok thanks for the help ill try them out tonight
Hoppers stoppers installation
Started by
_Aidan_
, Jul 30 2006 09:47 PM
126 replies to this topic
#77
_a.vas_
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Posted 25 August 2012 - 02:15 PM
can the original backing plates be used with this kit if they're swapped left to right? or should i just leave them off? and would the turning circle be improved if a hex head bolt were used instead of the socket bolt supplied to hold the adaptor plate on?
cheers
cheers
#78
View GaragePosted 25 August 2012 - 08:40 PM
I used them, just extended/mirrored the cutout for the lower control arm at the lower ball joint
The adapter plate bolts are not a factor with regard to wheel lock
The adapter plate bolts are not a factor with regard to wheel lock
#79
_a.vas_
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Posted 26 August 2012 - 03:55 PM
I used them, just extended/mirrored the cutout for the lower control arm at the lower ball joint
The adapter plate bolts are not a factor with regard to wheel lock
Cheers, looks good!
#80
HIBERN8
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Posted 03 September 2012 - 09:19 AM
Hey guys, I was thinking about purchasing one of these kits because I haven't really come across any negative feedback and it looks relatively hassle free. Just wondering if anyone can confirm whether a set of convos will go over the 290 kit? I read on another thread which I now can't seem to find again that they probably wouldn't fit but just wondering if anyone knows for sure as the 15"+ seems more of a guide than a definite due to the obvious differences in wheels.
#81
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 03 September 2012 - 10:42 AM
Hey guys, I was thinking about purchasing one of these kits because I haven't really come across any negative feedback and it looks relatively hassle free. Just wondering if anyone can confirm whether a set of convos will go over the 290 kit? I read on another thread which I now can't seem to find again that they probably wouldn't fit but just wondering if anyone knows for sure as the 15"+ seems more of a guide than a definite due to the obvious differences in wheels.
Hope I can help?, I went through hell trying to find out what wheels would fit and in the end had to go drive about and measure the inside wheel wells myself with a tape measure to see what wheels would fit!!.
I measured up the inside wheel well area of 15" CONVO PRO and I got a measurement of 340mm.
The overall dimension of the 290mm Hoppers kit comes in at 360mm overall so I believe they wont fit on Convo's , in the end I went with 15" Weld Draglites.
290mm Hoppers dimension spec sheet here mate
Clearance on my 290mm Hoppers kit with 15" Weld Draglites below
Edited by 76S.L.R, 03 September 2012 - 10:46 AM.
#82
_sjp67m_
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Posted 03 September 2012 - 11:27 AM
Hope I can help?, I went through hell trying to find out what wheels would fit and in the end had to go drive about and measure the inside wheel wells myself with a tape measure to see what wheels would fit!!.
I measured up the inside wheel well area of 15" CONVO PRO and I got a measurement of 340mm.
The overall dimension of the 290mm Hoppers kit comes in at 360mm overall so I believe they wont fit on Convo's , in the end I went with 15" Weld Draglites.
290mm Hoppers dimension spec sheet here mate
Clearance on my 290mm Hoppers kit with 15" Weld Draglites below
Any photos of side on to see the rims ?
#83
StephenSLR
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Posted 03 September 2012 - 11:35 AM
You also have to be careful where you place your balancing weights. The control arm on the drivers side (I think) would strike the weight if it’s placed on the rim.
s
s
#84
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 03 September 2012 - 12:15 PM
The Wheel weights they put on mine are really flat and are stuck inside the wheel well so mine are ok,indeed there would be an issue if the weights were placed on the side of the rim
#85
Posted 03 September 2012 - 01:34 PM
I had problems with stick on weights in Cragars, ended up melting down an equivalent weight of lead and pouring it into the wheel against the spoke so it sat out of the way...! Worked well
#86
HIBERN8
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Posted 05 September 2012 - 08:53 PM
Hey cheers heaps for the info/pics 76S.L.R. Looks like I might have to rethink my wheel & brake choice.. bummer! :(
#87
_Holden89nut_
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Posted 17 June 2013 - 09:47 AM
I fitted a 290 mm hoppers kit, not really impressed, don't like the fact that the caliper is now my steering lock stop, that could of been explained earlier and I could have done something about it before I
Powder coated everything, poor service afterwards pretty rude to be honest
Powder coated everything, poor service afterwards pretty rude to be honest
#88
Posted 17 June 2013 - 12:52 PM
The caliper should not be the steering stop, that could cause the pistons to retract and you won't have any brakes on next stop! Did you end up fitting them to the front or something?
#89
_Holden89nut_
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Posted 17 June 2013 - 08:18 PM
Exactly my point! You don't want to know my real opinion on hoppers stoppers.... I will be moving calipers to front when I get round to it, car is still a while off the road
( I rear mounted them as per instructions )
( I rear mounted them as per instructions )
#90
Posted 18 June 2013 - 07:21 AM
What I meant was that this is not an intentional aspect of this kit, there must be a solution to your problem as it is not correct for this installation. I have the 290mm kit with rear mounted calipers and they do not foul in this manner. The only hassles I had was they accidentially supplied incorrect outer bearings, and I didn't like the hose positioning so I changed it.
If memory serves you do need to be careful about the angle of attachment for the banjo fitting on the caliper, as that's the closest point to the cross member at full lock?
If memory serves you do need to be careful about the angle of attachment for the banjo fitting on the caliper, as that's the closest point to the cross member at full lock?
#91
_Holden89nut_
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Posted 18 June 2013 - 07:48 AM
I can take photos mate for further investigation but I was told by hoppers stoppers to notch my k frame, I will not be doing such dodgy practices on my car with the money I've put into it, any help would be greatly appreciated
#92
StephenSLR
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Posted 18 June 2013 - 08:39 AM
I was told by hoppers stoppers to notch my k frame
You shouldn't have to do that.
My mechanic had some issue with clearance when the car was up in the air with wheels at their lowest point and on full lock.
When it was put on the ground all was fine - see previous page.
s
#93
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 18 June 2013 - 01:14 PM
From memory the caliper on the 290 kit mounted in the rear position on a Torana stub axle hits the lower control arm bump stop.
#94
Posted 18 June 2013 - 03:00 PM
I still have standard bump stops with the 290mm kit and no issues.
Photos would be useful, exactly where on the cross member is it hitting, and what part of the caliper?
Photos would be useful, exactly where on the cross member is it hitting, and what part of the caliper?
#95
_Holden89nut_
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Posted 18 June 2013 - 10:13 PM
Just before full
Lock
Hard on the steering wheel locked but steering stops still 10 mm away from k
Frame, caliper is touching the actual main cradle
Lock
Hard on the steering wheel locked but steering stops still 10 mm away from k
Frame, caliper is touching the actual main cradle
#96
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 19 June 2013 - 12:26 AM
How much camber do you have?
The more camber you have the closer the caliper will be.
Are you checking the clearance at ride height, full rebound or full compression?
#97
dattoman
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Posted 19 June 2013 - 02:27 AM
Would using the UC upper arms change this any do you think Andy ?
Looks like its on the ground.. but is it loaded ?
#98
_Holden89nut_
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Posted 19 June 2013 - 05:38 AM
Car has no motor, slr height springs so it's full rebound, no sure how much camber didn't think it was adjustable
#99
Posted 19 June 2013 - 07:49 AM
Clearance does get better at ride height (you wouldn't get full lock and significant suspension movement at the same time). I have UC uppers with just over 5 degrees caster (was more like 1.5-2 at installation though) and 1 degree negative camber, I also have UC lowers with the steering stop on the arm, I wonder if that reduces the amount of lock just a little?
I still think I remember the banjo fitting being one of the closest points to the cross member so something's different here, not sure if its just the height. It would be OK to trim the cross member a little there but a pain in the neck.
Can't find any photos of the right angle, will see if I can get some from under the car as it sits to compare.
#100
_Holden89nut_
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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:00 AM
I refuse to trim any part of the cross member, one because it's all powder coated and two because I was sold a kit that was 100% fit, a cut crossmember would not be roadworthy I'm disappointed in the kit, i hope with the lowered ride height it does get better..... Stil would of been nice to know this trouble before hand so I could of dummied it all up and nut out a solution (like uc gear ) before things are powdecoated and painted and rebushed:(
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