34 replies to this topic

[BIG KEV]

Ryan I am in the middle of a ls2 and Magnum conversion
if I was you I would go the chev
the ls conversion is a night mare just trying to get things to fitted etc wires and alike
but in saying this I have just had some bad luck with people that I was dealing with
others have done it and said it was easy but that also depends on your skill level

[rexy]

If you can, go LS.
I love my LJ. Starts first time, every time. No stumbles or carry on.
Goes like the clappers and economy is pretty good.

[Bigfella237]

That K-member and rack looks like they were printed on a 3D printer?

 

My personal preference would be a later Gen IV LS motor, 6.0L (364ci) or 6.2L (376ci), but I think you've really left it too late to start mocking up, especially as you'll most likely have to re-work the trans tunnel for a later gearbox, drill holes in your pretty firewall etc. None of the usual companies (that I've seen) has really got the conversion kit down-pat yet, there's still a lot of screwing around to be done.

 

Whereas an old school (Gen I if you like) Chev engine is pretty much guaranteed to just bolt straight in.

[ls2lxhatch]

It is hard to beat the simplicity of a 383 SBC with a carby. The 383 SBC with a carby does not require CATs or expensive EFI fuel systems.

 

The axistr power steering rack is a straight forward bolt on will fit with a SBC but will not a fit with an LS without relocating the oil pump pickup and reworking the oil pan.

 

If I was to do it again then I would have a carby 383 SBC. Toranas should be thirsty and grumpy.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 21 December 2015 - 06:54 PM.

[BIG KEV]

It is hard to beat the simplicity of a 383 SBC with a carby. The 383 SBC with a carby does not require CATs or expensive EFI fuel systems.
 
The axistr power steering rack is a straight forward bolt on will fit with a SBC but will not a fit with an LS without relocating the oil pump pickup and reworking the oil pan.
 
If I was to do it again then I would have a carby 383 SBC. Toranas should be thirsty and grumpy.

I have one of axistr power steer racks with a LS2 it was easy and it did my head in to get clearance but its done

That's ment to be wasn't easy ...sorry I was in a rush

[ls2lxhatch]

I have one of axistr power steer racks with a LS2 it was easy and it did my head in to get clearance but its done

That's ment to be wasn't easy ...sorry I was in a rush

Did you relocate the oil pickup to the passenger side?

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 21 December 2015 - 07:26 PM.

[ls2lxhatch]

If you buy a VY LS1 and auto then you will need the following. The prices are a rough guide.

Computer VAT delete and tune $450 or MAFless tune $800+
Wiring harness $1200
Oil Pan $800
Custom made headers $2000+
Cats $500
Fuel system $500-$2000
Engine Mounts $250
Cable-X to run mechanical Torana speedo off the electronic pulse from the 4L60e. $500

I don't think the VY Auto 4L60e will fit in your transmission tunnel. I had a new transmission tunnel fabricated to fit the 4L65e in my hatch.

15K should be enough for engine, gearbox, exhaust and fuel system.

You should work up a a couple of spreadsheets with the costs of all the parts you need for the different engine options (brakes $1500+, cooling system $1000+, tailshaft $500, diff $1500+, suspension). It adds up quickly

[BIG KEV]

No standard oil pick up and Moroso sump
No windage tray as I have a strocker crank
I made my own mounts and removed the factory ones of the K-frame
I spoke with Jason from Tuff mounts and if the mounts were that bit higher it would work
The troubles with after market mounts ,they foul on other things like a/c
By making the one I did I sat the motor where I want and clears

[ls2lxhatch]

I did not want to raise the engine as is caused too many other problems.

I think moving the oil pickup to the passenger side like dirtbag did is the simplest solution.

More pictures in this thread.

 

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 21 December 2015 - 08:00 PM.

[ls2lxhatch]

VY auto (4l60e) fits with a slight tap with a hammer to clear the gear selector shaft.

Those prices seem high too Andy.
I bought my stuff 3 years ago so it may have all gone up? Dunno.

 

Does the VY 4L60e have a bolt on bell housing or the one piece?

 

Did you fit the factory RPN switch on the gear selector shaft?

 

Which engine mounts did you use?

 

Which prices do you think are too high? 

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 21 December 2015 - 08:06 PM.

[neglectedtorana]

Either way you will end up with a great car, my concern and this probably goes for either but more for the LS1 will be keeping your beautiful engine bay beautiful

I mean not scratching it etc. Custom extractors are not gentle.

Also to consider is time. I think you are more likely to have set backs and delays with the LS1

I think I am past the hard bits of the LS1 fitment and look forward to one day driving the car with the fuel injected LS1 as I am definitely too far past the point where I could go back to the carb 308 but if I never went for the LS1 I think I would already be driving my car

Your car looks great!

[ls2lxhatch]

Bolt on bell housing.

Tuff mounts.

Loom was $450 U.S. for a brand new hot rod loom.
Extractors are $900 for the shit CAE things (I modded these to fit mine). Grant bolted up factory holden commo manifolds ($50?).
Sum

My tuner charges $550 for dyno tune (can delete VATS and MAF then).

 

Last time I checked none of the off the shelf headers are worth buying, things may have changed since but I would still budget for custom headers. As you found the CAE headers are designed to fit with the CAE engine mounts and starter motor. Once you fit the lower Tuff mounts the CAE headers need to be modified.

 

In my opinion the CAE engine mounts are too high, the higher CAE engine mounts also cause the 4L60e to hit the top of the transmission tunnel.

 

$450 USD is currently $628 plus maybe $100 USD freight works out around  $770. I see CRS sell the LS1 4L60e loom for $1000 so $1200 is too high. The CRS LS2 loom is $1300.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 21 December 2015 - 08:38 PM.

[unclefestal34s]

good decision