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hi guys
just wanted to find out what temperature everyone is running as my 355 is hitting
180-190F and when in traffic its going up to 210F plus.
now iv been told that anything over 200-210F is dangerous for the motor
and im using a autometer gauge
can anyone confirm if this is true??
danny..
overheating problems
Started by
dannygtrxu1
, Aug 01 2006 07:07 PM
38 replies to this topic
#2
_LJ355_
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Posted 01 August 2006 - 07:15 PM
Mate i had same problem with mine i have a alloy desert cooler two 10" thermos sucking and one 14" pushing cruise at 180-190 ok soon as it hits traffic it climbs quite quickly soon as the warmer weather hits it will only get worse what fan setup do you have when i get mine back together im trying to fit some au falcon fans everyone that has them has it sorted out
#3
Posted 01 August 2006 - 07:29 PM
iv got a 14 and 12 both sucking.
and iv got a 160 thermostat
do u have a thermostat???
danny..
and iv got a 160 thermostat
do u have a thermostat???
danny..
#4
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Posted 01 August 2006 - 07:39 PM
Yeah 70 degree i tried with and without no difference
I seen you in bexley this arvo your car looks sweet i thought it was mine for a second !
I seen you in bexley this arvo your car looks sweet i thought it was mine for a second !
#5
Posted 01 August 2006 - 07:46 PM
lol thanks i was taken it to get the brakes done as there really shit at the moment
i was told 160 was there lows thermostat u can get. ill have to look in to that:)
how did it sound??
iv got the shit pipes on it at the moment just to keep it quiet for now
danny..
i was told 160 was there lows thermostat u can get. ill have to look in to that:)
how did it sound??
iv got the shit pipes on it at the moment just to keep it quiet for now
danny..
#6
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Posted 01 August 2006 - 07:52 PM
I forget were i got mine from but you can get them
Yeah it did sound quiet thats all good doesnt attract any unwanted attention
did you get it engineered yet
Yeah it did sound quiet thats all good doesnt attract any unwanted attention
did you get it engineered yet
#7
Posted 01 August 2006 - 07:58 PM
maybe this weekend if i get the car back from the brake place if not ill get it done next week sometime, so fingers all crossed.
hows ur rebuild going? back on the road soon??
danny..
hows ur rebuild going? back on the road soon??
danny..
#8
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Posted 01 August 2006 - 08:04 PM
Another couple of weeks mate ended up getting a complete new bottom end vt block harrop crank H beam rods etc cars going on monday to get the tubs done got the front end at the powder coaters should be ready thursday
#9
Posted 01 August 2006 - 08:12 PM
sound good man!!!
make sure u get some pics up
we got to get a cruise going soon as u get your car running
make sure u get some pics up
we got to get a cruise going soon as u get your car running
Edited by dannygtrxu1, 01 August 2006 - 08:12 PM.
#10
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Posted 01 August 2006 - 09:26 PM
Once your coolant starts vaporising then youll perhaps get into the area where engine damage can occur. 210F, if you can be sure about that, isnt going to hurt the motor......but its not optimal running temp for your bore clearances. Your rad cap 15psi should allow you to go ~45F over boiling and extra margin can be achieved by adding glycol. Things will start getting tight at 230+ and this is where you can start doing some damage.hi guys
just wanted to find out what temperature everyone is running as my 355 is hitting
180-190F and when in traffic its going up to 210F plus.
now iv been told that anything� over 200-210F is dangerous for the motor
and im using a autometer gauge
can anyone confirm if this is true??
danny..
There is obviously a cooling issued you have to address, since its the middle of winter and you are having probs. I doubt whether airflow is your prob, since you have enough fan for winter temps. Low temperature thermostats never solve cooling probs, defective thermostats can cause them though, but it doesnt sound like you thats your problem either.
Edited by devilsadvocate, 01 August 2006 - 09:28 PM.
#11
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Posted 01 August 2006 - 09:34 PM
had a similar problem once, tried to locate it for weeks, then one day i was playing with the rad cap and noticed it felt a little loose when full on so i took it off and crimped up the locating tabs on the cap a bit with the pliers and just like magic the over temp probs dissapeared.
dont go overboard with the tweeking up as i busted a cap refitting that was too tight.
dont go overboard with the tweeking up as i busted a cap refitting that was too tight.
#12
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 07:49 AM
Firstly you'l need a decent size radiator. The bigger you can fit in the better and less work elsewhere. Twin fans on SUCK not BLOW. leave the thermostat at 170 or 180 won't help you enough to change. Using thermotec header wrap and their heat spray will drop your engine bay temperature alot. It works so well it wont melt your spark plug leads and boots when in contact,in fact i can even touch my exhaust when its going. If you still have trouble cooling then try raising the idle rpm or in traffic have your foot on the pedal a bit,this will wind up your water pump a bit more and keep it cooler. Old mechanical waterpumps are really not efficient and when in combo with a higher lift and duration cam they often dont have the drive at idle to get enough water around-despite wearing out your cam at real low rpm
#13
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 09:23 AM
If the car is idling at 700rpm, standard water pump, old or new should be doing enough-thats what they are designed to do---if not its defective.Old mechanical waterpumps are really not efficient and when in combo with a higher lift and duration cam they often dont have the drive at idle to get enough water around-despite wearing out your cam at real low rpm
(increasing the engine speed will make it hotter-more fuel is being burnt and unless you have a also have a mechanical fan increasing the airflow temperatures will get hotter)
Dont understand what difference the cam could make to water pump operation, if its averaging(due to a lumpy varying idle) somewhere from 600-700rpm should be enough flow.
#14
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 04:50 PM
^^ agree 100% with DA here as a qualified radiator mech i have done up to 4 cars a day and to speed up checking instalation to heat the motor up to check thermostat flow we raise the idle, as some cars from cold start standing may take 10min for the motor to get hot enough for the thermostate to open.
if the radiator and waterpump are flowing, over temp and over heating problems are usually internal either mechanical fault ie head gasket or they are in built flaw ie to high comp.
and if it is dangerous for the motor to run around 210F? this should be refered to the builder as the answer will vary with internal clearences. but i would say trips to 100C woun kill a motor. i think constantly running over 130C would mean positive wear and tear.
if the radiator and waterpump are flowing, over temp and over heating problems are usually internal either mechanical fault ie head gasket or they are in built flaw ie to high comp.
and if it is dangerous for the motor to run around 210F? this should be refered to the builder as the answer will vary with internal clearences. but i would say trips to 100C woun kill a motor. i think constantly running over 130C would mean positive wear and tear.
Edited by ALX76, 03 August 2006 - 04:59 PM.
#15
_Herne_
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 05:09 PM
Have you removed both drain plugs on either side of the block and reversed flushed the complete system lately?
Your problem sounds more internal than air flow to, ie agree with what was stated above....Happy to be wrong on this. A leaking welch plug will also raise temps.
Herne
Your problem sounds more internal than air flow to, ie agree with what was stated above....Happy to be wrong on this. A leaking welch plug will also raise temps.
Herne
Edited by Herne, 03 August 2006 - 05:10 PM.
#16
gtrboyy
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 05:25 PM
A couple of things I learned from playing with mine:
*If the heater hoses aren't connected you need to drill a couple of small holes in the outer part of the thermostat.This is an old trick,gives more flow but other reason I was told was b/c water bypass is taken away when people fit block-off hoses.
*Make sure that the pulleys are off the same type off car,either use commodore or torana/kingswood,don't mix as they are different sizes.
I have tried quite a few set ups & the only ones that worked for me were:
1 hq radiator,spacer,5 blade plastic fan & hq plastic shroud.Trim radiator & shroud,least mods required.Only problem is it takes awhile to warm up,never overheated.
2 Vs S3 v8 radiator,spacer,plastic 5 blade fan & coommodore shroud.You have to mod cut shroud up big time,looks ugly & harder to work on as shroud covers everything.
3 Vs s3 radiator & au thermo fans.Very time consuming as lots of little mods required but it looked the neatest,gave more room to work on the car,warmed up eng quicker than hq rad/fan/shroud set up & never even looked like overheating.
I tried a lot of things,those were the ones that worked even on the hottest of days..
*If the heater hoses aren't connected you need to drill a couple of small holes in the outer part of the thermostat.This is an old trick,gives more flow but other reason I was told was b/c water bypass is taken away when people fit block-off hoses.
*Make sure that the pulleys are off the same type off car,either use commodore or torana/kingswood,don't mix as they are different sizes.
I have tried quite a few set ups & the only ones that worked for me were:
1 hq radiator,spacer,5 blade plastic fan & hq plastic shroud.Trim radiator & shroud,least mods required.Only problem is it takes awhile to warm up,never overheated.
2 Vs S3 v8 radiator,spacer,plastic 5 blade fan & coommodore shroud.You have to mod cut shroud up big time,looks ugly & harder to work on as shroud covers everything.
3 Vs s3 radiator & au thermo fans.Very time consuming as lots of little mods required but it looked the neatest,gave more room to work on the car,warmed up eng quicker than hq rad/fan/shroud set up & never even looked like overheating.
I tried a lot of things,those were the ones that worked even on the hottest of days..
#17
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 06:28 PM
I think what you are experiencing danny is not hugely problematic, except in the fact that its winter and you will be screwed when summer comes 
.
My 333 stroker used to run very warm and I made a few changes. I installed twin au thermos - the biggest and best thing to do, I also found a weeping welch which I replaced. The thermostat is 160 with a couple of 1/8th holes drilled in it (takes a bit longer to warm up in the morning but must help a bit I suppose, its always been like that so don't know its impact).
Thermo's come on at 200 and go off at 180. I havn't been able to properly see how they cope in hot weather because they were installed towards the end of summer this year, but it is a big improvement. Having said that, it does still quite easily hit the 200 mark but the fans bring it down every time. As I said, I havn't hit real hot weather and bad traffic to tell at what point the fans will be unable to pull it down.
I have also just had my extractors heat coated so will be interesting to see what impact that has this coming summer in helping the underbonnet temp.
Peace,
.My 333 stroker used to run very warm and I made a few changes. I installed twin au thermos - the biggest and best thing to do, I also found a weeping welch which I replaced. The thermostat is 160 with a couple of 1/8th holes drilled in it (takes a bit longer to warm up in the morning but must help a bit I suppose, its always been like that so don't know its impact).
Thermo's come on at 200 and go off at 180. I havn't been able to properly see how they cope in hot weather because they were installed towards the end of summer this year, but it is a big improvement. Having said that, it does still quite easily hit the 200 mark but the fans bring it down every time. As I said, I havn't hit real hot weather and bad traffic to tell at what point the fans will be unable to pull it down.
I have also just had my extractors heat coated so will be interesting to see what impact that has this coming summer in helping the underbonnet temp.
Peace,
#18
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 06:38 PM
The au thermos will easily handle the combined hot weather & sydney stop/start traffic mine did but so will a fan/shroud set up if everything is in good working order.
#19
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 06:51 PM
Not to state the obvious but fi it's a 355, I assume it's a bored/stroker.over temp and over heating problems are usually internal either mechanical fault ie head gasket or they are in built flaw ie to high comp.
Bored out = Thinner cylinder walls = Heat transferred from kabang in cylinder --> water more easily = Water temperature rises more rapidly and absorbs more heat.
Thermodynamic equilibrium at work again.
#20
Posted 03 August 2006 - 11:22 PM
thanks for all ur input guys:)
im running a hq 4core reco radiator.
i havent even run the motor in yet but i dont think that makes much of a difference
i think i might try some au fans.u guys think its worth trying??
how much are they worth??
my fans kick in at 190f i think its a bit too late to kick in??
danny..
im running a hq 4core reco radiator.
i havent even run the motor in yet but i dont think that makes much of a difference
i think i might try some au fans.u guys think its worth trying??
how much are they worth??
my fans kick in at 190f i think its a bit too late to kick in??
danny..
#21
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 11:32 PM
Au fans work great but it doesnt look like they will fit between hq rad & 308 in an lc-j.
On mine I used a vs s3 rad,alloy & much narrower(see avatar pic),flattened rad support for more clearance & then I had to clearance the au shroud so that I would be able to change a fan belt if I needed to.
I'll try to find the thread from awhile back.
On mine I used a vs s3 rad,alloy & much narrower(see avatar pic),flattened rad support for more clearance & then I had to clearance the au shroud so that I would be able to change a fan belt if I needed to.
I'll try to find the thread from awhile back.
#22
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#23
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Posted 03 August 2006 - 11:52 PM
As mentioned b4, if you are struggling to keep it cool in winter with the fans you have, you have problems that need to be addressed.......extrapolating ahead....its going to overheat with the au fans in 40+ as well, perhaps you are going to need them anyway.thanks for all ur input guys:)
im running a hq 4core reco radiator.
i havent even run the motor in yet but i dont think that makes much of a difference
i think i might try some au fans.u guys think its worth trying??
how much are they worth??
my fans kick in at 190f i think its a bit too late to kick in??
danny..
If money is no object, just start replacing things.......otherwise do some measuring of temperatures to see where you prob lies exactly.
Your prob is at idle, so water pump operation needs to be investigated. This can be done by measuring the temp difference between top and bottom radiator hoses, if the bottom hose feels obviously cooler than the top with your fans going, and the gauge is at 210F then circulation is your prob. If the hoses feel similar temp, then that indicates you have adequate circulation, though to be more certain, they should be measured with an accurate device.....infrared thermometer is invaluable here. A difference of more than 10C between top and bottom would indicate inadequate flow when the motor is in overheat cond.
Poor circulation can be due to radiator blockage as well, use the IR thermometer to see that all the tubes in the rad are getting hot near the bottom.
If all your tubes are the same temp within top to bottom with the fans on, then you have a basic prob of too much heat being produced for your rad/airflow combination........which means looking at the engine itself for the cause or more rad/airflow.
#24
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Posted 04 August 2006 - 03:40 AM
you mention not run in yet.
a fresh motor will be tight and can be for months. the old yard stick of 1000km for breakin is just a preliminary proceedure and other factors should be concitered too.
anyway a fresh/tight motor will run hotter than normal in some instances but if all else is well, ie pump, RECO radiator and you had the block/heads chem cleaned etc, etc id be looking at too much comp built into the motor for the given fuel.
does it ping at WOT under load?
a fresh motor will be tight and can be for months. the old yard stick of 1000km for breakin is just a preliminary proceedure and other factors should be concitered too.
anyway a fresh/tight motor will run hotter than normal in some instances but if all else is well, ie pump, RECO radiator and you had the block/heads chem cleaned etc, etc id be looking at too much comp built into the motor for the given fuel.
does it ping at WOT under load?
#25
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Posted 04 August 2006 - 07:26 AM
hey devil, a radiator can be big enough to cool the engine with the waterpump being the part letting it down. You can overheat at lower rpm,if you raise the rpm then the overall heat itsn't directly proportional to the rpm, as the waterpump is now making better use of your larger radiator. Go and try it for yourself.maybe im not explaining myself
Having a lumpy cam tends to make people idle their cars lower(which is not good) and subsequently leads to overheating problems. they should infact idle them higher.
Having a lumpy cam tends to make people idle their cars lower(which is not good) and subsequently leads to overheating problems. they should infact idle them higher.
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