Yes, idling too slow can be a probHaving a lumpy cam tends to make people idle their cars lower(which is not good) and subsequently leads to overheating problems. they should infact idle them higher.
overheating problems
Started by
dannygtrxu1
, Aug 01 2006 07:07 PM
38 replies to this topic
#26
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Posted 04 August 2006 - 01:22 PM
#27
_hrt1and2_
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Posted 04 August 2006 - 02:42 PM
This is gonna sound real stupid, but is there anything like bugs, dirt etc. blocking the front of the radiator fins?. thought i would give a imput.
#28
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Posted 04 August 2006 - 05:23 PM
I'd say yes, being stroked and high comp etc. will mean it runs hotter than a standard motor. BUT that doesn't mean it has to be allowed to run too hot. How many k's have you got on the motor, if you say its not run in properly yet (and I'm imagining maybe 500k's on it) then yes, it will get better as it beds itself in so that is a good thing. When mine was new it used to run right up high, 220 odd, and I'd only be able to take short trips and cool it down etc. But as its loosened up its gotten better. Nevertheless, you probably still should add the AU fans.
Peace,
Peace,
#29
View GaragePosted 04 August 2006 - 06:16 PM
the motors only done around 20k 's
and i do have the trans cooler in front off the radiator
just another thing that i remember was that i did buy a cheper water pump. should i be looking at buy a top brand water pump???
ill be trying everything u guys recommended this weekend.....
danny..
and i do have the trans cooler in front off the radiator
just another thing that i remember was that i did buy a cheper water pump. should i be looking at buy a top brand water pump???
ill be trying everything u guys recommended this weekend.....
danny..
#30
makka
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Posted 04 August 2006 - 07:25 PM
grab some au thermo's, they are awesome.
how is your timing and fuel mixture? i overheating issues (just ask 253toranaSS!) and once i got the timing and mixture sorted, they basically went away
how is your timing and fuel mixture? i overheating issues (just ask 253toranaSS!) and once i got the timing and mixture sorted, they basically went away
#31
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Posted 04 August 2006 - 07:51 PM
20k!! That would have a fair amount to do with it I reckon.
Install some AU fans and cos you'll need em anyway and see what its like after 2000k's. As makka has said, once you've had it dynoed and its worn in a little it will be way down.
Install some AU fans and cos you'll need em anyway and see what its like after 2000k's. As makka has said, once you've had it dynoed and its worn in a little it will be way down.
#32
_1QUICK LJ_
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Posted 04 August 2006 - 09:46 PM
i would say its your water pump the cheap early style pumps have a pressed tin impeller they are total crap at idle speeds and cavitate badly at high RPM, get your self a series 1 VT 5litre pump with the cast impeller that should solve the dramas, you can get them in the cheaper powermax range (around $85)they fix most holden heating problems when all else fails its normaly a crapy brand pump ive seen it so many times. very common problem its normaly the pump if everything else is in good order. let us know how you go.
#33
Posted 05 August 2006 - 03:18 PM
ok guys ive done some testing today and everything is looking good
i bent the tabs on the radiator cap so it was a bit tighter as i did find abit of a driping leak.
next i found that the fans kick in at 200f which i think is a bit late so i got them to kick in at 180f and i let the car idel for about 15mins just like if i was in traffic and the temp did not go up at all it just stayed on 180f and on the lj dash the temp stayed at just over 80.
so everything is looking all good so far but still have to test it on the road
just one more thing i just noticed on the inside of the radiator cap there was a brown muddy type of crap on it and one seen this before???
so thanks to everyone one who helped me out u guys rule
danny...
i bent the tabs on the radiator cap so it was a bit tighter as i did find abit of a driping leak.
next i found that the fans kick in at 200f which i think is a bit late so i got them to kick in at 180f and i let the car idel for about 15mins just like if i was in traffic and the temp did not go up at all it just stayed on 180f and on the lj dash the temp stayed at just over 80.
so everything is looking all good so far but still have to test it on the road
just one more thing i just noticed on the inside of the radiator cap there was a brown muddy type of crap on it and one seen this before???
so thanks to everyone one who helped me out u guys rule
danny...
#34
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Posted 05 August 2006 - 03:22 PM
Brown muddy crap may well suggest a reverse flush of the block and radiator (cooling system) is in order.
When doing so be sure to remove engine plug or plugs as the case maybe.
This gunk builds up in blocks, radiators and even hoses over time.
Herne
When doing so be sure to remove engine plug or plugs as the case maybe.
This gunk builds up in blocks, radiators and even hoses over time.
Herne
#36
gtrboyy
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Posted 05 August 2006 - 04:07 PM
Passenger side of the block next to dipstick tube down near the sump & on ther other side of the block it's in the same spot in front of the starter motor.
Another I fitted to my car was the water filter from tefba,I was quite surprised at the amount of crap it filtered out.
Another I fitted to my car was the water filter from tefba,I was quite surprised at the amount of crap it filtered out.
#37
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Posted 05 August 2006 - 04:41 PM
Yup exactly where gtrboy stated.
See if you can direct a strong jet of water into these block plug holes and remove your radiator hoses etc, reverse and forward flush from every direction imaginable until clear water comes out. Do this more than once! just one thing, both you and your engine bay are gonna get wet.
I cant promise this will end all your overheating problems but getting the mud and gunk out will certainly help. It shouldn't be there and thus any removal of it can't hurt.
Cheers
Herne
See if you can direct a strong jet of water into these block plug holes and remove your radiator hoses etc, reverse and forward flush from every direction imaginable until clear water comes out. Do this more than once! just one thing, both you and your engine bay are gonna get wet.
I cant promise this will end all your overheating problems but getting the mud and gunk out will certainly help. It shouldn't be there and thus any removal of it can't hurt.
Cheers
Herne
Edited by Herne, 05 August 2006 - 04:43 PM.
#38
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Posted 05 August 2006 - 04:55 PM
A picture is worth 1,000 words - so they say.
Cheers
Herne
Cheers
Herne
#39
TerrA LX
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Posted 05 August 2006 - 05:33 PM
glad we could be of help on this one.
brown gunk, you want some.
let me know how a reverse flush goes, ill try it myself later as im snowed under at the moment.
brown gunk, you want some.
let me know how a reverse flush goes, ill try it myself later as im snowed under at the moment.
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