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machineing rim

Started by _Bomber Watson_ , Aug 06 2006 07:44 PM

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9 replies to this topic

#1 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 07:44 PM

ok, heres a long shot, i'm gonna get flamed but here goes. i'm putting hg offset hotwires on my torry. as i'm sure your all aware they sit out a bit far. the rear end is no wakkas, i'm getting a new diff made up 65mm shorter than standard. the problem arises on the front end. now, where the rims bolt up the the hub, theres a bit of a bump. around 5-6mm. if i got one of the blokes to machine 4-5mm off this, the rims would fit a lot nicer.

now i don't care about legality, no one will ever notice. what i'm asking is do you think this would be dangerous?? i cant see where loosing that bit of metal will make a large diference, theres still a LOT of meat in these rims. my mind frame is if i just keep an eye on them to make sure they don't start cracking, i should be right.

the reason i'm asking here is, has anyone tryed this, and who thinks its highly dangerous, and who agrees that it shouldent be a real drama? the car isnt a frequent streeter, very rare actualy.

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#2 TerrA LX

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 08:10 PM

i dont think you will find any one here that will advocate reducing the integrity of a part by modification.
ie if you talking machining the hub of the rim to reduce back spacing,
well one; your wheel nuts will need spacing/shortening,
two; how do you monitor a rim for cracking, travelling ar 110Kp/h?

Edited by ALX76, 06 August 2006 - 08:11 PM.

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#3 Heath

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 08:17 PM

well one; your wheel nuts will need spacing/shortening

Only if he is using closed nuts or sleeved mag nuts.

To get some more helpful advice:
What style wheels?
What material around the hub?
What kinda wheelnuts you use?

I take it these aren't the Volvo wheels if they are HG offset.

EDIT: Whoops they're hotwires, excuse me ^

Yes, I tend to agree. Hotwires do have a lotta meat around that section so I don't see a problem with it. Keep in mind things like the finishing surface after machining determining its ability to handle prolonged stresses etc. If I went ahead with it I would definately be keen on polishing the area you worked with thoroughly. The last thing you want is to finish off with a nice strong wheel but find that a rough surface will make it fail a few years down the track.

Talk to some pro's. Fitters and Turners etc.

Do you have a machining place in mind already? I'd want to talk to anyone with experience in this field.

Alternatives include:
Super 80's flaring job on front guards, hah!

This obviously isn't the best place to ask, but the start of your message indicates that you realise that already :spoton:

That's the best I can come up with anyway. Good luck

Edited by Heath, 06 August 2006 - 08:24 PM.

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#4 _Herne_

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 08:41 PM

You can get some wheels machined down and it can be legal. Take it to a reputable engineering workshop.

Cheers
Herne

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#5 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 09:39 PM

we have a coule of fitter turners at work, aswell as a few lathes very capable of handling the job. for a carton it will be done.

i'm just trying to decide if it will be safe or not. if i can get my camera going again i'll take some picks of the area.

i will be useing sleved mag wheel nuts, cutting a bit off the end won't hurt anything

.

the other idea is if i get the wheel alignment boy to dial in a few degrees neg camber it might clear the guards, but will be squishy. about 10 degrees it will be no worries......

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#6 _Herne_

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 09:49 PM

Of course a lot depends how much is to be machined off and what thickness the area is before and after machining. This is why I suggested a reputable engineering shop because they will/should have a good idea of structural tolerances.

Herne

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#7 gtrboyy

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 11:08 PM

Wheel place told me they can do it but it all depended on how much thickness there was to start with.Most of the time they refused to do it.

Do you really want to put hotwires on,seriously?

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#8 _HB1200_

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Posted 07 August 2006 - 12:39 AM

Be carefull when you have the bolt on face of the rim machined. This surface cannot be convex. It is best if this surface is slightly concave (0.05mm) to create a spring washer effect when the wheel nuts are tightened. Stick a straight edge across the bolt on face of a steel wheel. You will see what I mean. The surface with the stud holes will sit lower than the outer part that contacts the vehicle.

Saying that, I wouldn't recommend modifiying the rims as you don't know the design limits for the rim. Most alloy wheel manufacturers will have a standard thickness through the stud hole for any given offset. Departing from this could have unknown consequences.

HB1200

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#9 _Hotrodder_

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Posted 07 August 2006 - 11:53 PM

In this situation there is a better way.
Get your hands on some new DBA discs to suit a P76, have them drilled to suit your torry bolt pattern (standard is ford pattern) and bolt them on with HQ -> calipers. You'll need some bearing adapters from CRS too. You will gain vented discs, and about 12mm less track, as the P76 discs locate the wheel in alot further than the torry ones. This was a very popular conversion 20 years ago, not so common these days as many have never heard of it. I guess Im showing my age a bit now.