cheers adam
carby queries/ problems
Started by
_LX8VD69_
, Aug 06 2006 09:41 PM
4 replies to this topic
#1
_LX8VD69_
_LX8VD69_
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 09:41 PM
hello, its been a long time since i played with my carby, but when i went to move my car today the revs were all over the place and if you gave it a rev it would some times take a while to return to normal, if at all. i thought it might have been the cable, so i disconnected it and no difference. so i had a look at things and i noticed theres fuel trickling from the secondary jets at idle, like i said its been a while but i dont reckon its supposed to do that is it? any ideas? oh by the way its a holley 650 vac sec
cheers adam
cheers adam
#2
Gump
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Paisty White
- Name:Russell
- Location:Bridgetown WA
- Car:LX SL hatch
- Joined: 15-November 05
Posted 06 August 2006 - 10:58 PM
your probually goin to get all the normal replys "holleys a crap get rid of it, bla bla"
im not any help but ive got one of those carbys so ill be whatching this post to learn abit more
im not any help but ive got one of those carbys so ill be whatching this post to learn abit more
#3
TerrA LX
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Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
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Posted 06 August 2006 - 11:00 PM
would we start with the needle and seat?
#4
_EXLXSL_
_EXLXSL_
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Posted 07 August 2006 - 05:52 PM
From http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm
Inconsistent idle speed.
Many people lately have been asking me about idle problems where they will set the idle at 800 or so, then when they drive the car or boat, the idle only comes back to 1500 or so. When they blip the throttle, it will come back to 800. This problem is very likely NOT the carburetor, but the linkage from the pedal to the carb, especially if the car (or boat) has a wire cable linkage.
To diagnose the problem, disconnect the linkage at the carburetor, and manually move the throttle with the engine running. If it comes back to the idle set point, then the problem is in the linkage, which will require repair or replacement. If it doesn’t come back to the idle set point, the problem is in the carb, possibly in the choke’s fast idle linkage. If the linkage is dirty, spray it with carb cleaner. If you're using a spacer or adapter, those can cause interference with the throttle plates, and will need to be fixed.
This can also be caused by a sticky mechanical advance in your distributor, a particular problem on boats, where corrosion is a major factor. A visual inspection of the advance mechanism is highly recommended.
Another cause of inconsistent idle speed is sticky throttle valves, especially the secondaries on vacuum secondary carbs. Stickiness can be caused by excessive wear, but is most likely corrosion or gumminess from disuse, as in boats and other seasonal engines. The secondaries are held closed by two devices: The spring inside the vacuum actuator, and the link that goes from the primary throttle lever to the closer slot on the secondary throttle valve. In some cases, the actuator spring is relatively light, and doesn't exert much force. If the closer link is not bent just right to touch the slot enough to fully close the secondaries, you will experience a situation where the idle speed will not come down after the secondaries are used. You will need to clean the throttle plate and/or rebend the closer link to get the secondaries closed properly.
If you put a kit through it use a genuine Holley rebuild kit - even if you have to buy one from Summit Racing in the USA. I'm not saying the above is right or wrong but it's a start. I included the start of the section and as you have tried removing the cable, Bob2000 says it's the carby - or a stuck dist advance. Quite possible if the car hasn't been run for a while.
Inconsistent idle speed.
Many people lately have been asking me about idle problems where they will set the idle at 800 or so, then when they drive the car or boat, the idle only comes back to 1500 or so. When they blip the throttle, it will come back to 800. This problem is very likely NOT the carburetor, but the linkage from the pedal to the carb, especially if the car (or boat) has a wire cable linkage.
To diagnose the problem, disconnect the linkage at the carburetor, and manually move the throttle with the engine running. If it comes back to the idle set point, then the problem is in the linkage, which will require repair or replacement. If it doesn’t come back to the idle set point, the problem is in the carb, possibly in the choke’s fast idle linkage. If the linkage is dirty, spray it with carb cleaner. If you're using a spacer or adapter, those can cause interference with the throttle plates, and will need to be fixed.
This can also be caused by a sticky mechanical advance in your distributor, a particular problem on boats, where corrosion is a major factor. A visual inspection of the advance mechanism is highly recommended.
Another cause of inconsistent idle speed is sticky throttle valves, especially the secondaries on vacuum secondary carbs. Stickiness can be caused by excessive wear, but is most likely corrosion or gumminess from disuse, as in boats and other seasonal engines. The secondaries are held closed by two devices: The spring inside the vacuum actuator, and the link that goes from the primary throttle lever to the closer slot on the secondary throttle valve. In some cases, the actuator spring is relatively light, and doesn't exert much force. If the closer link is not bent just right to touch the slot enough to fully close the secondaries, you will experience a situation where the idle speed will not come down after the secondaries are used. You will need to clean the throttle plate and/or rebend the closer link to get the secondaries closed properly.
If you put a kit through it use a genuine Holley rebuild kit - even if you have to buy one from Summit Racing in the USA. I'm not saying the above is right or wrong but it's a start. I included the start of the section and as you have tried removing the cable, Bob2000 says it's the carby - or a stuck dist advance. Quite possible if the car hasn't been run for a while.
#5
_LX8VD69_
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Posted 07 August 2006 - 08:14 PM
thanks EXLXSL at first i thought it was the cable as well but diconnected it and it still did it. i think it might be like you said in the secondaries due to irregular usage, maybe i might need to pull it apart and pit a kit through it grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr bloody cars
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr bloody cars
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