36 replies to this topic

[LC-GTR-1969]

Hi everyone,

 

So I have a little issue... my bloody dipstick has been whacked by the blue crank and snapped the disptick in half. Now there is part of the dipstick floating around the bottom end :( It scared the shyte out of me when she let go- I thought it threw a leg out of bed but it was only the dipstick getting a liverpool kiss from the crank.

 

So I have dropped the sump an inch or so and have been trying to fish out the remains of the dipstick, but for the life of me I cant seem to find it. 

 

I figure that if I cannot fish it out I will just take the opportunity to yank the motor and freshen everything up at the same time.

 

Hence, I am curious as to what everyone thinks is the quickest and most efficient way to yank the motor. I've pulled plenty of motors, and done both methods (lifting car over k-frame and engine out the top method), but on different cars. I have not pulled the motor from an LJ before. The last torana I pulled an engine from was a 202 from an LH and I took engine and gearbox out from the top, and that was ok, but there is a little more room to work with on the bigger torries.

 

So, what do you think?

 

 

[LC-GTR-1969]

If I only need the engine, out the top leaving the box behind.

If I need the engine and box out, both out the top.

I have one of those load leveler things, makes both trivialy easy.

 

I did have a load leveler but it use to shyte me so ended up usually just using chains back in the day (with other cars). Ill look in my shed and see if I still have it.

 

I have very nice paint, so would be absolutely gutted if I gave the engine bay a touch up when removing the motor. 

[SA EH]

Ha ha.... The dipstick thing has happened to me also.
Mine was an aftermarket chrome dipstick which is a bit thinner than standard, ended up breaking into 3 pieces. Somehow I managed to get all bits out with one of those bendy magnets through the dump plug hole.
But yeah I'd take just the engine out & leave the box behind.

[8BALL]

Ive always yanked the box 1st. Then ripped the motor 2nd.
And installed in opposite direction (motor 1st, box 2nd)

Easier to handle imo

[LC-GTR-1969]

Ha ha.... The dipstick thing has happened to me also.
Mine was an aftermarket chrome dipstick which is a bit thinner than standard, ended up breaking into 3 pieces. Somehow I managed to get all bits out with one of those bendy magnets through the dump plug hole.
But yeah I'd take just the engine out & leave the box behind.

 

What kinda noise dit it make? I had some rattling going on, and I couldnt work out what it was- it kina sounded a little like piston slap at low rpm, but I couldnt hear anything above about 1200rpm. I wish I had the brains to think that the noise could have been the dipstick but meh

 

Ive been fishing around but no luck. Thats why I dropped the sump so I could get at it from a few angles. I have just bought an endoscope camera for like $13 delivered, and will see if that helps locating it- it has a camera with a magnet as well. 

 

Argg... frustrating. I would prefer to pull the motor for something bigger than a bit of snapped bloody dipstick lol

Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 29 August 2016 - 10:54 AM.

[SA EH]

What kinda noise dit it make?

Lol. It was kind of like one of those ultra tune adds.... Tink tink tink PA-TINK!
I thought it was the rods hitting the side of the sump again but it all went quiet pretty quickly. Surely enough when I went to check the oil level, my dipstick was a tad short!
Faced with the same dilemma, I drained the oil for a couple of days to get everything out, then went fishing. BTW those pieces really stick to the bottom of the sump even without oil in there.
NO WAY was I going to pull my donk out....

[LC-GTR-1969]

In most cases its much quicker to pull the engine though.

 

Lol. It was kind of like one of those ultra tune adds.... Tink tink tink PA-TINK!
I thought it was the rods hitting the side of the sump again but it all went quiet pretty quickly. Surely enough when I went to check the oil level, my dipstick was a tad short!
Faced with the same dilemma, I drained the oil for a couple of days to get everything out, then went fishing. BTW those pieces really stick to the bottom of the sump even without oil in there.
NO WAY was I going to pull my donk out....

 

Cheers- yeah, my predicament is do I just keep fishing about painfully for more hours trying to get this piece out, or do I just say screw it and pull the engine... at this stage ill try a few more tricks to fish it out- the camera will help and was cheap enough... but if the camera doesnt reveal anything in half an hour I will yank the motor. Ill give the old girl a freshen up whilst I am at it.

[SA EH]

Ha ha ha.... "Freshen up".......

Here we go.

[LC-GTR-1969]

Just added some more lube to the slippery slope haha.

Your getting a bit intimate now mate hahaha   

Ha ha ha.... "Freshen up".......

Here we go.

 

JZED 

[rodomo]

Tip the car upside down.............it will fall out of the oil cap

 

Seriously, if it were me? I wouldn't bother.

[gtrboyy]

They're not too bad to pull through top..just got be careful with high energy sumps clearing crossmember.

 

Most time-consuming part is refitting webbers/manifold & extractors...depends how keen you are on the day with the right tools by yourself anything from few hours to a day

 

Never snapped dipstick although cant see it getting sucked up or doing damage,

 

If engine still good I'd dunk it back in & keep cruising it untell next engine ready.

Edited by gtrboyy, 29 August 2016 - 09:47 PM.

[warrenm]

It's too big to get sucked up the oil pick up. I raced for 3 years with 3 teeth from an oil pump gear in the sump. Like rodomo said above.

[N/A-PWR]

In my Torana days,

 

I always had a spare K frame with motor and box ready to go,

 

 as need the Tory for work rest and play.

 

We never know what will happen, so a 4 hour change around using the tilt method:-

 

This tilt method works as a full component Torana too,

 

 just by placing the rear wheels in the boot,

 

 and the K frame with motor and box rolls out,

 

 then the spare K frame with motor and box rolls in.

 

( balancing act, just holding the end of the gearbox, you can steer it where you like )

Edited by N/A-PWR, 29 August 2016 - 11:27 PM.

[madtoranajzedded]

Wow 57% prefer to leave engine on kframe
frOck that..i wouldnt even do it that way
with complete respray.more mucking around
i reckon..everyones got there own way i spose

[I'm a Red Motor fiend]

Countless times I have removed both engine and box together out the top of LC & LJ. You need a load leveller though or it wont work. I use a little bit of rag to protect the firewall and find it easy to do by myself. Even with a high energy sump and a Romac balancer, when you get the angles right it slots in/out no probs. Mind you, if you have a pit or a hoist I would pull the box and bellhousing for greater ease.

[Ice]

Wow 57% prefer to leave engine on kframe
frOck that..i wouldnt even do it that way
with complete respray.more mucking around
i reckon..everyones got there own way i spose

Its the easiest way by far

No need to protect anything

But by all means if you like lifting the engine out knock your socks off

[kiwi-lilj]

I always lift the car over the motor, box and front crossmember. I have a little jockey wheel that I attach to the back of the box and roll the whole lot out. There is very little chance of damage this way especially if you are doing it by yourself, no need to remove the bonnet, I think the worst part is having to bleed your brakes again.

[orangeLJ]

Two post hoist.

Out from underneath.

Have done it on stands in the shed too, always an easier method with a nicely painted engine bay.

Tail shaft, crossmember, wiring off, steering coupling, two brake lines and six crossmember bolts.

On the hoist it's under an hour.

[N/A-PWR]

For bleeding the brakes,

 

I used the clear tube with nipple locking/sealing tabs,

 

 with the one-way  valve, and you keep pumping,

 

until all bubbles are gone:-

 

http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2139wt_1055

[LC-GTR-1969]

I always lift the car over the motor, box and front crossmember. I have a little jockey wheel that I attach to the back of the box and roll the whole lot out. There is very little chance of damage this way especially if you are doing it by yourself, no need to remove the bonnet, I think the worst part is having to bleed your brakes again.

What method do you use to lift the car? What ever I do it needs to protect the body and paint as the priority