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202 engine removal POLL


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Poll: Opinions on engine removal in LC/LJ- easiest way? (10 member(s) have cast votes)

Which do you find the easiest, quickest way to remove engine from LC/LJ?

  1. Voted I prefer to remove the engine and trans with the K-Frame, and lift the car over the running gear, and roll it out (4 votes [40.00%])

    Percentage of vote: 40.00%

  2. Voted Remove engine with crane, but leave gearbox in place (engine out the top) (2 votes [20.00%])

    Percentage of vote: 20.00%

  3. Remove engine and gearbox all together and angle the bugger out the top (Careful of my nose cone lol) (4 votes [40.00%])

    Percentage of vote: 40.00%

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#26 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 03:22 PM

Its the easiest way by far No need to protect anything But by all means if you like lifting the engine out knock your socks off

Easier yes.longer to do yes.its already
easy to take out a motor Gene.Why make
more work for youself bud.

Still got to take donk off kframe say if
doing a sump.

Edited by madtoranajzedded, 30 August 2016 - 03:23 PM.


#27 kiwi-lilj

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 03:27 PM

What method do you use to lift the car? What ever I do it needs to protect the body and paint as the priority


I made this frame out of some 50x50x5 angle and some box I had at work. It slips into where the bumper mounts go and comes out far enough to keep lifting chains away from your nose cone.

It's by no means the fastest method but it's easy to do by yourself and reduces chances of damage in my opinion.

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#28 N/A-PWR

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 03:47 PM

Never tried it,

 

 but is there enough room to raise the motor off the engine mounts,

 

 to get the sump out?



#29 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 03:55 PM

No, the back of the head hits the firewall.

#30 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 04:22 PM

So the poll seems to show that K-FRAME removal, and the engine AND box being removed together from the top methods are the most popular... 

 

Is there any particular reason why people prefer to pull the box with the engine when pulling from the top? I know it makes clutch alignment a bit easier when the box is on the floor with the engine, but besides that I cant see many other benefits to pulling the box as well. Thoughts?



#31 jd lj

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 04:40 PM

So if you were to lift the front end and remove the engine on the K frame does anyone know how high the highest point of the car might be?

My garage is ridiculous and has a very low ceiling. I very much doubt that I'd be able to take it out from the top if I ever have to, if I had the bonnet up all the way and want to roll it back I've got to be mindful of not letting the bonnet hit the RSJ. Who ever built this should be shot.

#32 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 05:23 PM

So if you were to lift the front end and remove the engine on the K frame does anyone know how high the highest point of the car might be?

My garage is ridiculous and has a very low ceiling. I very much doubt that I'd be able to take it out from the top if I ever have to, if I had the bonnet up all the way and want to roll it back I've got to be mindful of not letting the bonnet hit the RSJ. Who ever built this should be shot.

I have a similar situation.

 

My answer however, is to remove all the shyte that I need to bar a few bolts, roll the car out shed, remove engine in open air, push car back in shed.

 

Still not ideal for me though, as my driveway has an incline, which makes managing a hoist a lot bloody harder. I had a bloody 250 ford motor tip on the hoist and nearly fall on me 10 years ago- thanks to an inclined surface and a halfwit pushing and pulling the hoist (not me, I was guiding the engine). Fractured and displaced vertabrae was my gift from that incident. Not kidding. When the crane tipped I had to support the weight and twisted my body so I could get out of the way. The twisting frocked me. Oh well- the main down side is I cant feel my hands when I lie down anymore lol



#33 _Agent 34_

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 05:25 PM

put a magnetic sump  plug in fill with oil go for a run and then come back take plug out and " he presto " the part will be next to the plug !!!

 

G

 

or wrapped around the crank, jambed between the cam shaft and the block 



#34 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 05:52 PM

put a magnetic sump  plug in fill with oil go for a run and then come back take plug out and " he presto " the part will be next to the plug !!!

 

G

 

or wrapped around the crank, jambed between the cam shaft and the block 

 

Yeah I thought about this... but when I was cranking the motor It jammed up for a second (my guess the piece got wedged between something it shouldn't have for a second). Another tap of the starter and it freed up. But this was enough to think, ahh screw it, so I pulled the sump so I could get better access with the magnetic pickup. I am also waiting on a small endoscopy camera to help me see and hopefully find it. Ill see how I go...

 

But again, in saying that I wouldn't mind a 'freshen' up. 



#35 warrenm

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 10:42 PM

My preference is to pull the box out, then lift the engine out the top, with the bonnet in place, no paint damage in the engine bay, no brakes to bleed etc. 



#36 gtrboyy

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Posted 31 August 2016 - 12:31 AM

^^ Same.

 

Easier to  connect up tailshaft,shifter etc than muck around getting input shaft to go in then bellhousing bolt stuff around.

 

Just use blankets for bay...slip yoke & chopped speedo to seal g/box or last resort rags.

 

Offsider makes it easier to juggle the weight but have done it myself most times.



#37 _jay72_

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Posted 01 September 2016 - 01:28 PM

If the paint is the main thing.

 

Working at home, I would remove the engine without gearbox out through the top, taking plenty of time and care and using rubber mats in the eng bay - because the eng/box seems to always swing sideways, scratching the paint. And when clearing the gearbox, I've hit the nosecone on the sump. Also, I don't like undoing main bolts like the K frame unless I really have to.

 

And get/borrow/hire an engine leveller - you'll actually smile changing an engine. lol

 

(I would only remove the K frame/eng/gbox if I had a two post hoist).

 

If your garage is a concrete floor laid on a waffle pod and you're using a bottle jack, put wide supports under the jack.. They've been known to crack through the floor and kill.

 

In the end, always got to minimise the chance of damage. (= time, money, blood, sweat and tears...)

 

Cheers






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