116 replies to this topic

[LC-GTR-1969]

It's been along time since I fitted one in the car without the crank snout being threaded, but if you undo the engine mounts, jack the motor up, I think you can get enough clearance,then tap,tap,tap with a 4lb hammer & a block of wood. 

Balancer goes on until it stops.

 

The last one I installed - I just needed to cut up a strip of timber that was thin enough to allow me to keep the wood square/ straight with the balancer, and tap tap tap with a BFH and the balancer was on easy.

 

Obviously I just had to make sure that the balancer started on the crank square, then it drove on easy. I didnt need to raise the engine or anything- but I did have to remove the  number plate.

[Brent J]

So I spend some time putting things back together over the weekend. Nice to put things together rather than pulling things apart all the time!!

 

I popped a new oil seal in and then gently warmed the new harmonic balancer at around 90 to 100 degrees C. I applied a film of Loctite 680 to the crank nose and also the balancer and then pushed it on as far as I could by hand.

 

I could just get square on access using a 500mm long piece of hardwood between the Valence panel and the bottom of the bumper. Using a 4lb hammer and few good whats, the balance slid on. I was worried I couldn't get it home far enough, but seems to line up with the water pump puller and alternator pulley.

 

While the car was in bits, I decided to change out the thermostat and housing as the housing was badly corroded. I also replaced the header hoses, clamps and nuts and bolts as well as it a number of odd nuts and bolts here and there...

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[Brent J]

I am unable to drive the car as I have the clutch assembly rat trap out of the car, but I wanted to start the car to test out the balancer / keyway fix and also see if the knocking sound  (that I originally thought was a big end or piston knock) had gone. I was pleased to hear that it has gone

 

I ran it for a while (to top up the radiator fluid) and got it up to temp, then shut it off to see if there was any play in the balancer and it is still nice and tight with no movement. While I have not had it on the road yet, it seems to be have been a success.

 

It will be interesting to see if this fix has any impact on the vibration I feel in the car under high rpm / load..

 

Watch this space!

Edited by Brent J, 21 May 2017 - 09:07 PM.

[grumpy xu1]

Great news so far mate, hope it has fixed the issue. Should be up for some cruising once it's going again & more enjoyable to drive this time. Fingers crossed for you. Gary.

[Brent J]

Seems like I got ahead of myself Gary.

 

I went back this evening and gave the fan a bit of a wiggle and there is a very small amount of play between the crank and balancer. Not happy bout it, but nothing I can do further. May be I wasn't generous enough with the Loctite 680.

 

The movement is a fraction of what it was, but nevertheless it is still there. I guess it will have to wait till the day I pull the engine out for a rebuild!.

[LC-GTR-1969]

Seems like I got ahead of myself Gary.

 

I went back this evening and gave the fan a bit of a wiggle and there is a very small amount of play between the crank and balancer. Not happy bout it, but nothing I can do further. May be I wasn't generous enough with the Loctite 680.

 

The movement is a fraction of what it was, but nevertheless it is still there. I guess it will have to wait till the day I pull the engine out for a rebuild!.

 

Don't get too despondent- When I had the same problem, I remember I had two goes at this fix.. the first attempt I did not use enough loctite and it came loose after a good drive. 

 

I quickly pulled off the balancer before any further damage was created, and had another go with much more generous use of LOCTITE 660. Make sure you use the loctite primer as well- it helps let the loctite 660 'go off'. When I watched the 'how-to video' from loctite, i saw that they really did use quite a liberal amount, rather then the thin smear that I used on first attempt.

 

So, I would be pulling the balancer off, and doing it a second time with more liberal use of product. As I said, when I had the problem this solution got me out of trouble, and the engine went on to do plenty of high rpm runs and the balancer stayed tight. 

 

If you were in sydney, I would come and give you a hand.

 

This fix is obviously only a temporary fix, but you could be suprised, with the way we drive these old cars, the fix could keep you on the road for a few years (in which time you could save some coin etc for a proper rebuild). 

Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 22 May 2017 - 09:55 AM.

[grumpy xu1]

As above, paint in the ass as it is have another go mate. 

Paint in the ass ? Sounds like you're still thinking about work bomber lol.

If Brents like me he'd be nervous about if the repair is good enough, but i certainly hope it will be at till he can do the rebuild, can't hurt to try & just keep a good eye on it regularly. Fingers crossed that it works. Gary.

[Brent J]

Paint in the ass .... I had a horrid image for a while there mate!

 

Ill give it another crack but will have to wait a fortnight as I wont get any play time for a few weeks..

 

After some advice from LC-GTR-1969, on reflection I think the Devcon was too hard and brittle, and the Loctite 680 was not the right selection. Aanyone need $50 worth of Loctite 680?!?!

 

So, ill procure some Loctite Primer, and 660 and liberally apply it, then let it go off for a few days..

 

As Gary said, keen to get a good repair to be done with it so I can move on with the job list on the car (and the list is extensive)!

 

Worst case scenario - baby the car until I pull the engine and rebuild. Will report back in a couple of weeks!

[rodomo]

Loctite and such wont fix this.

[LC-GTR-1969]

Loctite and such wont fix this.

 

No it wont 'fix' it, but I did it a while back on an engine spinning 7000rpm, and the balancer held tight using the Loctite 660 keyway repair- it didnt work loose, and didnt do any further damage- but obviously, its not a permanent fix and a rebuild is on the cards- but from memory I ran the engine for 2 years or so and the balancer never worked loose. 

 

Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 23 May 2017 - 07:25 AM.

[LC-GTR-1969]

So I guess what im saying is the loctite repair should really only be considered as a stop gap- or to buy some time before a full rebuild- how much time I am not sure- probably all depends on the degree of damage in the crank etc.

Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 23 May 2017 - 10:17 AM.

[Brent J]

Correct - I don't assume for a moment that this is a permanent fix. Provided it doesn't grenade itself (which I doubt it will) It is a temporary repair until my planned engine rebuild in 2018.

Worst case, it will not be any worse than what it was 2 months ago when I started on this particular repair.

[Rockoz]

Just wondering if a ski boat technique might help in the short term if you are going to do a rebuild any way.

The drive on the boats mounts to the front of the crank in place of the balancer.

They drill 2 additional holes through the joint between the drive and the crank and belt in some roll pins.

That would certainly tighten it up.

Think they were drilled at 6mm.

[grumpy xu1]

I can see the sense in that idea Rob, i would be dubious about if you could successfully drill the crank at 180o apart exactly in the car with a normal drill good enough to be a interference fit & balanced. Worst case scenario, bang a standard 202 in for the time being. Obtain a new crank for the xu1 & rebuild when the funds are available, depending on how successful the next locate is. That's my thoughts atm. Gary

[LC-GTR-1969]

THe other thing I didnt think of but Robs Idea jogged my mind is scotch locking. 

Same deal, drill a hole between where the crank and balancer meet, then tap it and fit a grub screw. 

 

I though about this- but how the faark do I get the grub screw in once the balancer is driven home? My timing cover leaves next to no room to get in behind the balancer- not sure about standard balancer though and how much room there would be?

[warrenm]

Like this, but use a "Grub Screw" & loctite.

[LC-GTR-1969]

Yeah could work, if its a last ditch effort to put delay a rebuild... Maybe give it a crack! All makes sense now!

[LC-GTR-1969]

Actually, just thinking about it, 2 would be better, 180 degrees apart- that way if there are any weight issues it would minimise changes to balance- what do you think?

[LC-GTR-1969]

Definately sounds like it could work- what size do you reckon would be best? 6mm? 

 

BrentJ- Id give it a go- cant hurt...