Applying Seamsealer
#1 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 02 March 2017 - 11:27 PM
Just wondering about the best method of applying seamsealer during rust repairs.
Can you apply it to the joins and then spotweld through the lot, or do you have to apply after spot welding is completed?
Looking at spot welding my new sills on, so a little awkward to apply seam sealer after.
Thanks all.
#2 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 03 March 2017 - 09:25 PM
I am confident there will be a product out there that you can apply before spot welding.
Generally if your just sealing seams after welding you would epoxy it first then apply a polyurethane.
It may be best to go to a high volume paint supplier that supplies crash shops and ask around, you may need to go through 2-3 sales people to get the info your after.
#3
Posted 03 March 2017 - 09:33 PM
#4
Posted 04 March 2017 - 12:33 AM
black stuff under the scuttle panel when i
unpicked it off.when first assembled the
spot process never got as hot joining the
2 panels together.ive been thinking of
using it myself i think it was still tacky
like tar substance..3m have a seam sealer
That can be spot machined through theres a
few vids to watch.sorry cant put em up..
They say its used to for air tight or water
proofing..just had a abit of a google..
checkout lord fusor aswell seems to b a few to choose from.i reckon if your spot holes
were say 5mm it wouldnt hurt the sealer as
much as an 8mm hole if its done qik
enough.so it doesnt damage the sealer around
the spot.just my thoughts...
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 04 March 2017 - 12:47 AM.
#5 _mikecatts_
Posted 04 March 2017 - 05:13 AM
panel bond....
#6 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 06 March 2017 - 09:52 AM
Thanks for the suggestions people, Will have a look into the 3M seam sealer product and the panel bond.
Why do i want to seam seal my sills? Because they were totally rotted out in my car when i got it, so rather not have that happen again.
At this stage i may just clear the areas to spot weld and the reapply the KBS RustSeal after i am done.
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 06 March 2017 - 09:52 AM.
#7
Posted 06 March 2017 - 12:53 PM
If they were rusted out, that tells me that there was somewhere for water to enter and not to leave. Fix those problems too.
#8
Posted 06 March 2017 - 07:57 PM
#9 _73LJWhiteSL_
Posted 07 March 2017 - 07:52 AM
Fair point guys. I know the rear drivers quarter has been replaced, and at least the rear wheel arch seam was not sealed properly and has also rusted out. Also the drivers guard has been replaced as well. The bottom of the A pillar had got a piece of alimiunum pop riverted over a rust hole and then filled with bog. The sill has also been repaired once before with lots of bog.
In short the repairs done in the past were terrible and i suspect partly caused the rust.
The other factor is the car has been a rolling shell for around 20 years now through the 2 previous owners I am aware off and I suspect hasn't always been stored undercover.
I guess i'm just being paranoid with all the hours I am spending on the car I don't want to be repeating it again in 10 years time.
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 07 March 2017 - 07:58 AM.
#10 _mikecatts_
Posted 07 March 2017 - 08:52 AM
Its a TORANA which = RUST.......
#11
Posted 07 March 2017 - 08:48 PM
If you want to use it do.i will b in certain
Areas..
Ive even seen a members project using weld
through primer on rails and rusted up
before he even put panel down ..dont know
if the one used was shit or what happened
So maybe the sealer would do better job
than weld through?..maybe the guys could
also comment on what brand wt primer they
used...
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 07 March 2017 - 08:49 PM.
#12
Posted 07 March 2017 - 09:05 PM
#13
Posted 07 March 2017 - 09:13 PM
#14
Posted 08 March 2017 - 06:41 PM
#15
Posted 08 March 2017 - 09:47 PM
I've found the Zinc based weld through primers like Wurth are very good as the zinc gives good protection against rust but to weld through them is very difficult with a mig, you get all sorts of minor explosions and not a good plug weld. I've started using the copper based primer from Upol and it welds quite well with no major pops or explosions, I suspect it doesn't quite weather as well as the zinc based stuff but is still a vast improvement from original which was just bare steel
#16
Posted 09 March 2017 - 04:01 AM
Hey Steve check this out..google
Whats the best way to rust proof overlapped
pieces of steel? .its actually on here
a thread that Woosha started..
I will definately b using sealer
Can someone do linky...
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 09 March 2017 - 04:02 AM.
#17
Posted 10 March 2017 - 07:17 AM
#18
Posted 10 March 2017 - 11:56 AM
I will b sealing the bottom edge.i dont give
2 frOcks what you say mate..
#19
Posted 10 March 2017 - 08:26 PM
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